Added one more to the list for LBZ/LMM. Had to get a new one, found a crack during my motor build so she was all but snapped. I gues thats prob why my #2main spun
Most blocks are trashed after this as far as using the oe cap . It can be reused in some cases by using billet mains to fix the damaged area. I guess there are few exceptions but I would definitely check the register of the caps and the line bore before just slapping a crank back in . IMHO
Built motor , duel fuelers , 60's overs , gtx4202r
Never had a broken crank, but is the main cause the small pin that holds the dampner in place. To small it shears and causes the dampner to spin freely? Or are there more issues?
I ran out of money and didnt line bore or anything. Just "plopped" the donor engine crank in there and its held up. So far..
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Plastigaged everything. Checked piston protrusion
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Welcome back mike, its been a while since i've seen you post. How's it going?I was one of the lucky ones to catch it before it broke. It's been 2+ year's since I spun the #2 main and had to replace the crank and block (crank was spinning .005 out of true). The bearing was all but completely chewed out of the main and there was a black residue on either side of the cap and block journal for #2. The journal was toast as was the mating surfaces for the cap and block journal (weird but they actually shrank inward and distorted) which was interesting. This was a fully balanced rotating assembly too. In my case, the bearing had spun (badly) then the crank had nothing to support it which cause the banging sound in the motor.
The next setup has lasted over 2+ years of spirited driving and power product testing. As a few of you know, I'm not that easy on them either (lots of stupid stuff). However, on this motor I went with main bearings from Guy that had .001 extra clearance because I could see where the crank had been scraping the old bearings from before. This was in the previous motors I had put together and from old motor examinations. So far so good and knock on wood.
A word on cryo for the crank. This procedure may allow the crank to warp some and then a regrind maybe in order (my observations and experiences when working with this procedure only). If even that will save it. If the need for stress relieving is in need (personal choice), I would recommend Metalaxing it. In this procedure it wont move even .0002. Some one in most big cities has this capability of doing this if it is researched.
Just my 2 cents.
Welcome back mike, its been a while since i've seen you post. How's it going?
Welcome back mike, its been a while since i've seen you post. How's it going?