So what's the new solution to stopping cranks from breaking the af cams dont seem to be doing a whole lot better? Seen a few people posting up their new broken cranks with a af cam....
So what's the new solution to stopping cranks from breaking the af cams dont seem to be doing a whole lot better? Seen a few people posting up their new broken cranks with a af cam....
Not arguing, but how many have you seen with AF cams so far? All I've seen was Shane's
I dunno. I still believe based on the data that most of the failures can be attributed to harmonics and extra load on the pulley side from dual / triple cp3.AF cams are not going to stop the problem. Now with that said if I was buying a new cam anyways I would buy a AF just because. I would never buy another cam Like I already had just because of the AF. VODOO dust just might be the answer with a splash of Holy Water. lol It sucks but if you triple or quadruple the power of something bad things are going to happen. The best answer is the crank with a bigger journal with more overlap. That will help.
I'd contact wagler or socal.As of 10 minutes ago, there is 16 week wait on the stock journal billet cranks from the manufacture. Seems someone in Indiana bought up all the inventory.
Who has one on the bench I can buy before dinner time?
As of 10 minutes ago, there is 16 week wait on the stock journal billet cranks from the manufacture. Seems someone in Indiana bought up all the inventory.
Who has one on the bench I can buy before dinner time?
Probably wagler if I had to guess
The bearing is not the problem. The journal SIZE the problem. There has been way more than a few broken cranks with a AF cam. Most wont talk about it. Harmonics is a problem that I agree with. A crank will flex under power. Now think about a pulling truck going down the track under power and what that crank is going through as the truck loads and unloads. Same for a drag truck only difference is wheel spin then you shock it when the convertor locks up and every gear change. I really don't think there is a simple answer other than a crank with a bigger journal with a narrow rod. That will in my mind make a difference.
That is exactly what I think the problem is also. I keep a broken lbz crank and looking at it, that is the only way to fix the problem. wider main bearing won't do anything beside the crank is "floating" in oil and not riding on the bearings.
Um what do you think supports the oil it's floating on?
A bigger all around journal would help IMO. Not all cranks break just behind #1 too so it would need to be done to all the mains.
As far as more AF cam engines breaking cranks but people not talking about it, if this is true then it's pretty fn sad.
Only reason not to talk about it is if there was a f'up by the assembler or builder and they won't warranty it if you do. And if their not talking just because they don't want to then they are dumbasses. How else can a solution be created if the details behind the failures aren't shared. Pride be damned. Speak up!!
New crank or good used that broke?I have broken a crank with an AF cam.... I think it's mostly sled pullers, who don't talk about anything, lol. They are such a few %... Sled pulling, even though it's in dirt is harder on engines than drag racing will be 99% of the time. I have a friend with a 565 BBC, 14.5:1 comp, nitrous engine, burns Q16, in a 10.5" tire Chevelle. And he has a 485ci pulling truck with iron heads. His dad & him have pulled for over 25 years. It's Oliver Billet rods only, Callies cranks, and titanium valves, best of everything. The loading and unloading and sled hammering, tires bouncing is far harder on engines than people think.
He gets 4 times the passes from his drag racing setup, than pulling engine. Others I know in gas pulling will vouch the same, who have had hot street/strip cars... The case GRP (and other brands) aluminum rods don't last at the power they are rated for when pulling... They have to get the next heavier step or 2 aluminum rods. But most use Oliver Billet Rods period.