I had an all stock lmm snap one off with only 90000 on it. currently is getting a new motor put in it.
Your a jackass.Well that's because you had a used crank....just so you know
my puller 01 Lb7 motor
Your a jackass.
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That's what I'm trying to determine.
I don't believe a new crank is the fix either. And stock new in stock dealer rebuilds are still breaking.
But the only way to accurately diagnose is to start with new parts. A used crank may be fine, and I don't knock anyone for using one, but there is no way to know how the past x amount of running time has affected it's integrity. Mag testing just checks the surface and I wouldn't solely rely on it's results. One could say you take the same risk with new, but I like to believe that new parts have no wear and no stressing on them plus hopefully passed a decent qc check.
It would be interesting to know the failure ratio between rebuilt with new crank and stock FO, rebuilt with used crank and stock FO, rebuilt with new crank and AF, and rebuilt with used crank and AF.
This info may be helpful to determine which route seems to work best or if it doesn't really matter at all.
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I had a customer bring in a truck a couple of days ago complaining it was cutting out and missing driving down the road. The truck is a fully built motor that he just picked up from us 3 weeks ago after installing an alternate firing order cam for him; the truck idled fine and ran good as long as the RPM was below 2200 or so. If you tried to go above that, the tach would jump around and it would cut out like it was hitting a rev limiter. Turned out to be a broken crank. Makes me wonder if the crank was already damaged or if changing the firing order on a crank that has been previously used hard with a standard firing order can cause a failure. I doubt he even drove it 1000 miles before it failed.
I had a customer bring in a truck a couple of days ago complaining it was cutting out and missing driving down the road. The truck is a fully built motor that he just picked up from us 3 weeks ago after installing an alternate firing order cam for him; the truck idled fine and ran good as long as the RPM was below 2200 or so. If you tried to go above that, the tach would jump around and it would cut out like it was hitting a rev limiter. Turned out to be a broken crank. Makes me wonder if the crank was already damaged or if changing the firing order on a crank that has been previously used hard with a standard firing order can cause a failure. I doubt he even drove it 1000 miles before it failed.
And I bet he was sick to his stomach.
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Don't know how far anyone actually dove into measuring RPM based harmonics and crankshaft torsional vibrations on the AF cam research, but I had a nice chat yesterday with someone who has the right tools to measure such values. They can measure deflection and rebound along a crankshaft as each cylinder fires in real time. Which can then be plotted and compared to measured engine harmonics.
Another part of our conversation revolved around how torsional twist and vibrations might be effected by different tuning aspects. Since changes to timing ultimately effects cylinder pressures at specific degrees BTDC. These tuning variables along with the stock crank design, balancing options, and accessory driven loads relating to crank fatigue is what we spent the better part of an hour discussing.
What we agreed that might be a good approach to understanding these crank failures better is to take a couple engines and put them on a harmonics tracking dyno setup, add fingers cylinder pressure mapping capabilities, and then log different tune configurations. Once several runs are mapped this way, swap in a AF cam and run it all again. Then switch to a internally balanced engine and repeat.
Might sound like big project, but nothing a few good wrenches and a couple computer geeks couldn't get together and handle over a weekend. Anyone interested if the price is right?
Reason why I sold all my dmax stuff. I broke the crank and was done with it.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61609
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61508
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49189
There's the threads from Fingers' section talking about the testing/analysis he's done on the cranks. I'd love to see you & him and you're contact and some engine builders together to see what you all could collectively figure out!!!
I had a customer bring in a truck a couple of days ago complaining it was cutting out and missing driving down the road. The truck is a fully built motor that he just picked up from us 3 weeks ago after installing an alternate firing order cam for him; the truck idled fine and ran good as long as the RPM was below 2200 or so. If you tried to go above that, the tach would jump around and it would cut out like it was hitting a rev limiter. Turned out to be a broken crank. Makes me wonder if the crank was already damaged or if changing the firing order on a crank that has been previously used hard with a standard firing order can cause a failure. I doubt he even drove it 1000 miles before it failed.
The initiation points of the crank failures are off TDC by 20° after or more. While the the pattern still indicates primarily a bending failure there is a strong torsional component as indicated by the off TDC initiation point.
eh no need to apologize when I rebuilt the motor I should have bought a new one or when aftermarket I also made the dumb move of putting a zf in the truck last year and who knows if south bend properly balanced the flywheel which i'm sure they didn't 5,000 rpm leaving the line isn't easy on parts just wish we found it earlierHonestly curious, but I'm guessing your's was still externally balanced yet, but did you have an AF cam?
I know it was a cheap shot, I apologize... I have a feeling he had other contributing factors also.
I believe the only true fix is the Winberg crank with the better filet and narrower rod journals to add meat and strength to the crank.
The reason I don't believe in the new stock crank theory is I have personally seen a LMM and a LML, both with under 70k miles, with full emissions and 100% stock with broken cranks... But we all know how piss poor the OEM balancing is, one Dmax will vibrate more than the next...