I remmeber some international motors that would break a crank if the belt was too tight. I am thinking they were in buses. If I can ever remember I will tell you the exact model. It could be detroits i just can't remember but I bet someone does.
Broken Crankshaft Count?
- Thread starter EDP
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I remmeber some international motors that would break a crank if the belt was too tight. I am thinking they were in buses. If I can ever remember I will tell you the exact model. It could be detroits i just can't remember but I bet someone does.
A company I used to work for doing optimized drilling solutions has some sensors we used but not sure what the max rpm was for them. They are about the size of a hockey puck and thread in. If it would work you would need a plate that could mount to the dampner and thread it in.
I will look into it.
There are non-contact sensors too, but that's not the problem. You have to break down the data after you gather it.
Pretty sure mine is broken at the #2 since it still ran and I can move the balancer. Crank was out of a bone stock Kodiak, was magged, balanced, ATI balancer, 15.5:1 compression, electric fans, single CP3, electric water pump, motor was only in for less than a year and only had about 5,000 miles on it. Had 3.42 gears and 5 speed that put me in the sweet spot Mark is talking about, was cruising for about an hour, came to a red light, when I started to pull away it started knocking.
With no water pump, no fan, and only a single CP3 I don't think it had to do with load on the snout; previous build had dual fuelers, and a mechanical water pump (or 14 before going electric), was pushed harder and abused more, and didn't hurt the crank.
With aftermarket cranks, internal balance, ATI or Fluid Dampers, billet mains and girdles, and lower compression all not preventing crank failures I personally think that our stock firing order creates a frequency at a certain RPM range. The alternate firing order will change that frequency. Internal balancing certainly won't hurt, and personally I'll be using a new crank in my next build. They are like $950, so they are cheaper than the alt firing cam. I figure that way I know that the crank hasn't already been fatigued.
With no water pump, no fan, and only a single CP3 I don't think it had to do with load on the snout; previous build had dual fuelers, and a mechanical water pump (or 14 before going electric), was pushed harder and abused more, and didn't hurt the crank.
With aftermarket cranks, internal balance, ATI or Fluid Dampers, billet mains and girdles, and lower compression all not preventing crank failures I personally think that our stock firing order creates a frequency at a certain RPM range. The alternate firing order will change that frequency. Internal balancing certainly won't hurt, and personally I'll be using a new crank in my next build. They are like $950, so they are cheaper than the alt firing cam. I figure that way I know that the crank hasn't already been fatigued.
Mine broke near the very front . Stock LBZ with S483 over a DP 72 VVT . Tuning was still the tuning for single with the DP 72 . Motor had 190 K on it too.. I attributed it to mileage and not getting it retuned before I hammered on it but who knows. The failure is what made me do the build I have now . I have 6-7 K on new motor all while compounded.
Looks like there was a bit of main cap walk but not nearly as bad as mine was... How did the other caps look?
I had my main caps dowled to the block as well as a girdle. Picking my engine up this afternoon!
Not to answer for mike but...
No between arp main studs, dowled mains, and a girdle there shouldn't be any reason they move.
My builder said that they are finding main cap walk is mainly tuner related.
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You mean to tell me that cap walk is being caused by who tunes it? Haha I didn't realize that was one of the dsp tables.
I would like to see some proof of that statement. Unless one tuner is running crazy timing or something, I don't see how that is possible.