Bought a Sierra as Donortruck - now he stay
- Thread starter Phoenix-LH
- Start date
Are parts much more expensive to get there? The upper control arms with new ball joints are about $70 here in the US. So cheap it isn't worth changing out ball joints or bushings, just replace the whole upper control arm.
The knuckle and lower control arm are worth rebuilding even here, though.
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The knuckle and lower control arm are worth rebuilding even here, though.
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We buy all our parts in the USA - import. fees and shipping + 45 %
thats less to that what the shops here want for the same parts - usually they take 100% on the prices
We have seen the costs of the uppercontrol arms and that the changing of ball joints and bushing really not worth it
The knuckle and the lower control arms have a big price difference dependent of the brand
There are also repair kits available
We also checking options on improvement of suspension and steering if there is something recommondated
Thanks for this info
The Enginebuilder have a lot expierence also in Duramax engines of all Series.
He have already build a Duramax with supercharger but not for a Truck - it was a marine-duramax.
He didnt give me an advice out of open and checking the engine. He want see which series parts is really inside also if the papers said LBZ
The possibility for a supercharger is less as it is not only a problem of engine internals ... there is also not much space in the enginecompartment.
I don't want a Supercharger at any price - if it's possible without much effort and with moderate additional costs, I'm in. But not if it has a problem with the durability of the engine or any negative other effect.
Now i am waiting on the result of the Enginebuilder about the condition of the engine, than we descide how we go on.
If you want to maintain durability and longevity of the engine then you try and keep the torque low in the low RPM areas. Superchargers can build a lot of torque down low and break cranks or shorten rods really fast. To keep the engine alive for a log time you tune it to have less fuel and thus less torque until the RPMs come up. But this kinda defeats the point of a supercharger. Turbos can break cranks and shorten rods too if programmed with too much low end torque, but with the lag you have a little better chance of keeping them alive. And would be easier and likely cheaper to install another turbo then a supercharger. As mentioned above, A supercharger will put a lot of stress on the front of the crank driving the belt whereas the turbos won't.
We have not enough engine knowledge to do this improvements ourself thats why the engine is now in the hands of an enginebuilder. I take your advice if we go on in rebuild the engine to talK about the options with the enginebuilder thanks
Really this Truck testing patience at all
i dont want take hard force if i can got result on a smoother way
No way on this Truck...
So the front axle is out but the rear still stuck on the bolts from the leafsprings
Just four bolts for sucess but any bolt need finally to drill out as it wont go off on another way
The chevy had a similar problem but finally it was off by force
It should be available leafspringbolts with grease fittings, seems to be a good choice but i read about different expierence
Some said good and othter said worse
No time for it this weekend
My car sent me a message => Breakfluid low level
So i had to check and found the rear breakcylinder "sweating"
I will tomorrow order the spareparts and if all went worse than completly
After park the car in the shop broke the gate by closing and we was trapped.
one of the springs which support to open break and without this support also Arnold Schwarzenegger is unable to push the gate up
Opened later by forklift - the owner from whom we have rented the workshop takes care of replacement tomorrow
Finally still not on the point where i wanted to be at christmas => frame ready to sandblasting
i dont want take hard force if i can got result on a smoother way
No way on this Truck...
So the front axle is out but the rear still stuck on the bolts from the leafsprings
Just four bolts for sucess but any bolt need finally to drill out as it wont go off on another way
The chevy had a similar problem but finally it was off by force
It should be available leafspringbolts with grease fittings, seems to be a good choice but i read about different expierence
Some said good and othter said worse
No time for it this weekend
My car sent me a message => Breakfluid low level
So i had to check and found the rear breakcylinder "sweating"
I will tomorrow order the spareparts and if all went worse than completly
After park the car in the shop broke the gate by closing and we was trapped.
one of the springs which support to open break and without this support also Arnold Schwarzenegger is unable to push the gate up
Opened later by forklift - the owner from whom we have rented the workshop takes care of replacement tomorrow
Finally still not on the point where i wanted to be at christmas => frame ready to sandblasting
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Not uncommon to have to cut those bolts and hammer them out. Most will put the new ones in the other direction so they can always remove them later without having to cut them.
Rear axle is disambled
Still have some bushing to remove from the frontaxle and the rear
Never had so much trouble to remove these than on the Sierra
i had also sandblasted the upper arm from the frontaxle just to store
Who know how long we will got these parts
I am not sure that the newer models still have the sparepart support like the old squarebodys, as i heard shall not more all parts available for the 2007 Sierra...
How much balance-weights does someone need to balancing wheels
same Wheels inside / outside
The tires are removed and the rims - if they have no impact - are sandblasted and repainted
Still have some bushing to remove from the frontaxle and the rear
Never had so much trouble to remove these than on the Sierra
i had also sandblasted the upper arm from the frontaxle just to store
Who know how long we will got these parts
I am not sure that the newer models still have the sparepart support like the old squarebodys, as i heard shall not more all parts available for the 2007 Sierra...
How much balance-weights does someone need to balancing wheels
same Wheels inside / outside
The tires are removed and the rims - if they have no impact - are sandblasted and repainted
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The front, upper arms are in expensive here in the US. About $65 - $75 US Dollars each completely assembled.
You can purchase the MEVOTECH CMS20360 or the MOOG CK620054 as a complete replacement.
You can purchase the MEVOTECH CMS20360 or the MOOG CK620054 as a complete replacement.
Thanks 1FastBrick i know this and we will purchase them as a complete set
But i learned of our cars and trucks in the past - all was older than 10 years as we bought them and drove them usually more than 25 years - that the spareparts gone out as older they be.
Our last Volvo 945 went only as we doesnt got spareparts anymore. Age 25 years, 530 000 km, gas engine.
I am really glad that the old squarebodies are so beloved that they exist the most parts aftermarket anymore.
Even Mercedes does not have these long time sparepart support
So thats why i just sandblasted the upper arms. I dont want take them to the scrapyard and i dont want store them in rustcondition. And be sure we will never need them again. Like usual. I had purchase the last 945 parts in store to another Volvo 945 enthusiast last year as we started to restorate the Chevy.
Which have more quality MEVOTECH or MOOG?
But i learned of our cars and trucks in the past - all was older than 10 years as we bought them and drove them usually more than 25 years - that the spareparts gone out as older they be.
Our last Volvo 945 went only as we doesnt got spareparts anymore. Age 25 years, 530 000 km, gas engine.
I am really glad that the old squarebodies are so beloved that they exist the most parts aftermarket anymore.
Even Mercedes does not have these long time sparepart support
So thats why i just sandblasted the upper arms. I dont want take them to the scrapyard and i dont want store them in rustcondition. And be sure we will never need them again. Like usual. I had purchase the last 945 parts in store to another Volvo 945 enthusiast last year as we started to restorate the Chevy.
Which have more quality MEVOTECH or MOOG?
Some will argue the difference between the 2 brands. I do not know the difference between the 2 brands on this part. My original arms had the rubber separating on the bushings and the ball joint boot coming apart. My upper control arms are different, they are fully boxed from the factory.
At the recomendation of another member @Bdsankey , I replaced with the Moog Brand. RK620054 They look very similar to the original part but brand new. Brad told me they use this brand at there shop with good success.
My truck is used very little but I needed to make a long road trip and was concerned about the condition of the original parts. This was the most cost effective solution.
In the long term I will likely replace with the Kryptonite brand suspension parts.
At the recomendation of another member @Bdsankey , I replaced with the Moog Brand. RK620054 They look very similar to the original part but brand new. Brad told me they use this brand at there shop with good success.
My truck is used very little but I needed to make a long road trip and was concerned about the condition of the original parts. This was the most cost effective solution.
In the long term I will likely replace with the Kryptonite brand suspension parts.
It is here the same about discussion of brands
I used on our volvos only original parts as long as possible = available.
But if the run out of stock... the next choice was than Skandix for us until there also not more longer essential parts available.
On the US-Trucks i have to learn about the different quality
Bearings come all from SKF or Timken, Rubberbushing and other parts from Adelco, Dorman and Moog for the Squarebody that made the restoration of the Squarebody expensive but it rise him up in his oldtimer value specially in germany, all srews ans bolts replaced with new in V2A and V4A stainlesssteel. You can image that this is more expensive in inch than in metric. But we stay on the original size.
I try to inform me the best way before order anything - i dont want a cheap solution - i want a durable solution
We will not hurry up - next is to sandblasting the frame. Beside this i do a lot of research of improvements we want on the truck.
Other rims would be surely nice but we have here the problem none us parts have here streetlegal and so i must discuss anything with the Roadapproval enginneer before i can change on other parts. Some parts like bumper are no problem, sliding rear window with an US certification will be ok, Rims need to ask as not all are allow or only allow with other improvements like spacer or fender flares. Necessary is always an US certification before i have here any chance to got it street legal
I am just now in discussion for our M1102 Trailer for the M1008 Chevy to have an oldtimer truck+trailer vehicle.
Alone the drawbar and the trailer hitch will not we allow here. For the drawbar does a shop here an approval and let them check. The papers for this check which allow the streetlegal 830 Euro... the military hitch must be exchange on a rockinger pintle hook, fortunately it fit inside the original mountings with a little bit customation. So that i finally will got the streetlegal on it.
On this you see we have here some laws which make it not easy to have special wishes on foreign vehicles.
I used on our volvos only original parts as long as possible = available.
But if the run out of stock... the next choice was than Skandix for us until there also not more longer essential parts available.
On the US-Trucks i have to learn about the different quality
Bearings come all from SKF or Timken, Rubberbushing and other parts from Adelco, Dorman and Moog for the Squarebody that made the restoration of the Squarebody expensive but it rise him up in his oldtimer value specially in germany, all srews ans bolts replaced with new in V2A and V4A stainlesssteel. You can image that this is more expensive in inch than in metric. But we stay on the original size.
I try to inform me the best way before order anything - i dont want a cheap solution - i want a durable solution
We will not hurry up - next is to sandblasting the frame. Beside this i do a lot of research of improvements we want on the truck.
Other rims would be surely nice but we have here the problem none us parts have here streetlegal and so i must discuss anything with the Roadapproval enginneer before i can change on other parts. Some parts like bumper are no problem, sliding rear window with an US certification will be ok, Rims need to ask as not all are allow or only allow with other improvements like spacer or fender flares. Necessary is always an US certification before i have here any chance to got it street legal
I am just now in discussion for our M1102 Trailer for the M1008 Chevy to have an oldtimer truck+trailer vehicle.
Alone the drawbar and the trailer hitch will not we allow here. For the drawbar does a shop here an approval and let them check. The papers for this check which allow the streetlegal 830 Euro... the military hitch must be exchange on a rockinger pintle hook, fortunately it fit inside the original mountings with a little bit customation. So that i finally will got the streetlegal on it.
On this you see we have here some laws which make it not easy to have special wishes on foreign vehicles.
Yes, Some times the local laws are not very forgiving.
I have the same problem here were I live. I can not legally change the Drivetrain with out getting an inspection from the state to recertify it.
I have the same problem here were I live. I can not legally change the Drivetrain with out getting an inspection from the state to recertify it.
Drivetrainchange is horrible here dependent what you want change. I failed on the chevy as it would be very very expensive to have another engine with more HP and specially not certificate emissiontests on that type of truck.
This will be also difficult if i want use a dualexhaustsystem on the Sierra. I guess of this we stay in stockcondition
This will be also difficult if i want use a dualexhaustsystem on the Sierra. I guess of this we stay in stockcondition
Thats a feeling like a victory about an enemy 
Finally all bushings are out
Weapon ? Handleverpress but i must confess the leafsprings was a real challenge to bring them under that press
Still not sure if we want rebuild the leafsprings with sandblasting or taking a new set
Finally all bushings are out
Weapon ? Handleverpress but i must confess the leafsprings was a real challenge to bring them under that press
Still not sure if we want rebuild the leafsprings with sandblasting or taking a new set