ya i think my number is blocked from telus...also i was not able to leave a msg just said that the number was unavaliable
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I'm thinking that would shave at least 75lbs of my truck!
So which hits first at full droop, the UCA or the shock goin to full stroke? How bout vis versa? As the LCA travels through its travel, is there enough give in the upper shock bushing that it doesn't add a bunch of twisting pressure to the frame shock mount?
Not trying to pick these things apart, just tryin to get some tech behind them before I go recommending them to guys.
Don't go any lower or you will pull the CV out of the "ball and socket" I did that when I lowered my LBZ as low, or a bit lower than your truck. it sucked.
I want a set
I want a set of these coilovers for my truck!!! How much are they Dustin?
So which hits first at full droop, the UCA or the shock goin to full stroke? How bout vis versa? As the LCA travels through its travel, is there enough give in the upper shock bushing that it doesn't add a bunch of twisting pressure to the frame shock mount?
Not trying to pick these things apart, just tryin to get some tech behind them before I go recommending them to guys.
Dammit James, you made me relive a picture thread.
I somewhat agree here.....but dont think many people will want to go this low, that don't know how-to a suspension.
I am kinda concerned about your cv angles though, they are pretty negative just sitting. I'm afraid once you start hitting some bumps, you are gonna drop them.
I know you said you were testing them, but hopefully you aren't replacing parts based on it.
Personally I would use the drop control arms with a shorter shock/coil setup to get the CVs in check.
More than that Mark...:thumb:
Not a problem! The shock hits full extension first, I think I have some pics where you can see where the UCA is not sitting on its stop and the truck is in the air. This really isn't a big deal, thats the way the 1/2 ton kits are set up. On a 4.1" stroke shock you just don't have much choice. When they bottom out there is bump stop i guess you could call it around the outside of the piston, its quite flexible and should take up all the shock needed. On Jons 95 Silverado (1/2 ton) with much thiner shock mounts, he hit a ditch trying to dodge a deer at a decent speed and nothing was wrong. The coilovers held up and the stock shock mounts held up. Plus after looking at our upper shock mounts they are very very thick, the welds would crack before they start to stretch the top.
Im personally not concerned about my cv angle, but I probably wouldn't suggest most people to go this low. If i do tear one up then I will raise it up a bit since I've got plenty of room to do so. Also I'm not sure how the drop control arms would help get the CV angle in check at the same hight? maybe I'm missing something, but I only see it helping the camber and maybe change the lower shock mounting position? Ive never seen the DJM control arms, we try and avoid most DJM stuff because it doesn't ride as good as mcgaughys (for the 1/2 ton stuff anyway). I got the Mcgaughys drop spindles (but didn't use them) to fix camber if it was way out of line, but it looks like there is plenty of camber adjustment to get it within spec.
EDIT: also wanted to point out, with the coilovers and the CV angles, remember that there is a lot less travel than there is with a regular torsion bar or coil spring setup. Because of this you can run lower and not have to worry about over extending the axles.
Also I saw a question about the preload? We are at zero preload at this hight, actually a little "negative" you could say. The spring has about 1/8" of play when in the air. Over the next week or so we are going to play with the ride hight and see how much adjustment on the spring will net us x" in ride hight. Theres a few options up in the air right now about how to get more adjustment out of the shorter 8" springs, so once we start playing with ride hight we can decide whats the best way to go there. Like ive said, this is still in the testing phase. We want to make sure they work with stock upper and lower shock mounts with no structural modification (which from Jon's experience and knowledge we aren't expecting any problems or need for reinforcement)
The truck is ready to go as of tonight, I just need to load a tune that will work with all my other new mods and I will start testing tomorrow evening. If everything goes as planed these will be available in ~2 weeks
Where's 150 lbs coming from?
I figured around 75-90
Torsion bars are 25.8 lbs, keys are around 8lbs and the cross member around 30?
I am flat out stoked to get these. These will make a VERY nice addition to the white thing and help me out.
Well while the shock limits down travel, thats bad for anyone with a stock height truck let alone a leveled truck. looks like these will be geared toward the lowered crowd. haveing the shock limit your down or up travel is pretty bad. even with a "bumpstop" internally or externally, what happens when you blow through that? the shock takes the full force. i understand you have limited room to work with, ive looked into it. a longer shock would have to be used for the stock/leveled crowd.
what i was asking about where the shock bolts to the frame mount is the bushings on the shock and as the suspension is comressed or dropped out if the bushing is fully compressed "tweeked" one direction or the other so much so that the metal shock almost touches the frame mount but being you stoping the arms so short of their travel, it pretty much answered my question.
How much does the spring compress with 0 preload from full drop of the suspension to ride hieght?
the mounts arnt going to be your issue.
Im a newb to the suspension set up world... so her es my question. I want to lower a 2wd duramax and put coilovers on it. For adjustability on the track. So if I am a lot lighter up front from no front drivetrain and u say these don't have any preload. Then will they be to stiff for a lighter truck up front. And Im stoked I won't have to worry about cv angles less headache.
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