Best DD Engine Build??

[MAXX IT OUT]

Well the other on the street fighter engine got me thinking, which is a bad thing. What would be considered the best engine parts package to build for a daily drive, worked and trailer pulling truck. My current engine just rolled over 40K and its lived its life on the 500hp or 600hp tune, so I really need to start thinking about a new build. Air probably would be compounds and fuel would be 45%-100% over SAC's. What would everyone recommend for a build.

 

[JoshH]

Mahle race cast pistons, LBZ rods, stock crank that has been checked for cracks, ATI/SoCal balancer, keyed cam and crank, ARP studs top and bottom. That's what I would do for a budget DD build.

 

[MAXX IT OUT]

I guess I should put a expected max power level, which would be to a 800HP, but live at 650-700HP. Current thoughts are Carrillo rods, stock or a small cam, and a compstar crank???. I don't know about pistons, maybe fingers cast ovals but inefficiency of the bowl design has me on the fence. Compression, clearances, and all the little thing probably add up to more of a difference in a good street/work engine than the crank, rods, and piston material.

 

[MAXX IT OUT]

Mahle race cast pistons, LBZ rods, stock crank that has been checked for cracks, ATI/SoCal balancer, keyed cam and crank, ARP studs top and bottom. That's what I would do for a budget DD build.

I basically have that build now, but I am not sure I would put compounds on LBZ rods and expect it to live.

 

[Chevy1925]

im still on delipped lb7 pistons, crower rods, and a stock 216k crank. currently at 55k on this engine and you know what its been through.

that said, id go mahle race cast or NEW stock delipped lb7/lly pistons, manly rods or LML rods, and either a stock crank or compstar like you said. Clearance wise, keep things tight but with a little more wiggle room than stock for the extra power.

 

[OregonDMAX]

Why all of a sudden everyone hating on fingers pistons

 

[Chevy1925]

Why all of a sudden everyone hating on fingers pistons

0 hate posted, dont go reading into it Seany boy but for the hp, fueling and air combo, the other pistons would live just fine.

when everyone comes out of the gate with "whats the more reliable bottom end build at 600-1000+hp" with 0 input on fueling, air, etc, im going to recommend top of line stuff because its clear they just want big power and will want to abuse it till the find out its expensive to keep a truck running at that when abused.

 

[20dmax08]

Saw dmaxstore offers rotating assembly package. Mahle race cast, durastar crank, Carrillo rods for 6k. Only down fall looks like you have to get bearings. I’d look hard at that or waglers when my day comes. I want to run 60% injectors, 10mm lift pump, and hsp compound kit over my pro max.


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[20dmax08]

I just wish this stuff come on sale once in awhile lol. Being in Canada really sucks when it comes to this stuff lol


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[gmduramax]

Saw dmaxstore offers rotating assembly package. Mahle race cast, durastar crank, Carrillo rods for 6k. Only down fall looks like you have to get bearings. I’d look hard at that or waglers when my day comes. I want to run 60% injectors, 10mm lift pump, and hsp compound kit over my pro max.


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You do know you have to add $3-4500 in machine work with bearings right? And depending on how well they balance the crank will help how long it lasts.

 

[20dmax08]

Of course. You know of a better package that includes all of that?


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[ouellet5]

I just wish this stuff come on sale once in awhile lol. Being in Canada really sucks when it comes to this stuff lol


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loll i'm in the same case. I think i will do a ride in states for Black friday :roflmao:

 

[Chevy1925]

Of course. You know of a better package that includes all of that?


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i would bet you could put that same kit together for cheaper through our vendors here.

IMHO, if i was EVER going to put a different crank in, it would be a callies narrowed rod journal crank. No sense putting a crank in that still has the possibility of cracking when the only change is the metal used and doesnt fix where the issue lays. kinda like a AF cam.

 

[FROGMAN524]

L5P king block may be a possibility in the future depending on the reluctor wheel.


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[MAXX IT OUT]

Sean, no hate for fingers pistons, I am not sure that they would be right for what I want, which is a clean running and a decent MPG. From what I have heard as a general rule, MPG goes down and they have more exhaust haze than normal style pistons.

Does anyone think that a cam upgrade is worth the cost?

 

[Ne-max]

Sean, no hate for fingers pistons, I am not sure that they would be right for what I want, which is a clean running and a decent MPG. From what I have heard as a general rule, MPG goes down and they have more exhaust haze than normal style pistons.

Does anyone think that a cam upgrade is worth the cost?

Nope

 

[Chevy1925]

Nope

Agreed, unless you plan to turn over 4k

 

[SmokeShow]

Any of you smart cookies willing to post your ideal (realistic/budget friendly/minimalistic) “recipe” for a reliable 600-800rwhp build like this with your choice of parts & rough prices for each...

Pistons:
Rods:
Cam:
Crank:
Heads:
Fuel:
Air:
Bearings:
Gaskets:
Machining tolerances:
Other:

 

[TheBac]

Just my opinion:


Stock block, stock bore
Stock magnafluxed LB7 crank
New balancer/flexplate due to mileage/age
Stock cut LB7 pistons
Carillos
New bearings/rings/gaskets, obviously
Rotating assy balanced
Stock cam
Stock heads - cleaned, decked and fresh valve job
Performance valvesprings and pushrods
Stronger fasteners throughout the engine

Rick's manifolds/uppipes
Minimum +100% injectors
Whatever fueling (dual CP3? 10/12mm pump?) and air ( Big single? Twins?) options you want
I would put money into swapping to LLY or LBZ heads and injectors to make service easier down the road.

Budget $1000 to check/clean/deck/hone the block with new freezeplugs
$300 to cut pistons
$300 for balance
Budget $1000 for head work depending on what you need
Assuming you build it yourself to save money. Its not difficult.

Im old school. I think we get too wrapped up in the new parts and trends and forget what used to work.

 

[paint94979]

Just my opinion:


Stock block, stock bore
Stock magnafluxed LB7 crank
New balancer/flexplate due to mileage/age
Stock cut LB7 pistons
Carillos
New bearings/rings/gaskets, obviously
Rotating assy balanced
Stock cam
Stock heads - cleaned, decked and fresh valve job
Performance valvesprings and pushrods
Stronger fasteners throughout the engine

Rick's manifolds/uppipes
Minimum +100% injectors
Whatever fueling (dual CP3? 10/12mm pump?) and air ( Big single? Twins?) options you want
I would put money into swapping to LLY or LBZ heads and injectors to make service easier down the road.

Budget $1000 to check/clean/deck/hone the block with new freezeplugs
$300 to cut pistons
$300 for balance
Budget $1000 for head work depending on what you need
Assuming you build it yourself to save money. Its not difficult.

Im old school. I think we get too wrapped up in the new parts and trends and forget what used to work.

i like this Tom except for 800hp id pass on the uppipes/manifolds and use something other than stock pistons.