I had a guy bring a 6.0l one in as a core o ce. The exhaust side was like that all the way around the the intake half was loose. Almost split it in half. That was in my early days at the dealer
August '24 Chat -- Its too damn hot!!
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I had a guy bring a 6.0l one in as a core o ce. The exhaust side was like that all the way around the the intake half was loose. Almost split it in half. That was in my early days at the dealer
Lie-O-meter looked good. Probably should have logged it.
Doesn't it message you on the DIC or chime with something like 7 PSI?
I should try making a 250 RPM idle tune just to see how it runs. If my lift pump wasn't so loud it would almost sound like it died when you let off the throttle
Just finished up a little emergency repair for a friend. 2002 Highlander that blew a spark plug out the hole. On the backside near the firewall. She initially took it to a mechanic who told her she needed a new engine. Then when she said she was going to talk to a friend first to see what they think, they then said they can do just a head. Price dropped down to $4500 from $5k. 
I stopped by at the shop to see the damage and talk to the mechanic. They gave me the scammer, try and squeeze as much cash out of the innocent clueless damsel type of vibe. This was a Midas so I expected better. Guy wearing dirty white T-shirt. No uniforms or anything. Unprofessional looking.
Due to the age and condition of the vehicle and what she paid for it, I try talking the shop into doing the threaded insert repair. They try and tell us there is no threads left to do the repair. And that the damage was too great. They even poke a boroscope down the hole to show me "how bad it is". Looks like stripped threads to me. Nothing I'm not familiar with.
So I tell my friend, if they can do the repair for the $1300 you had budgeted then take it. This is the number she had told them was the maximum she could afford. I said they are going to high ball the number, then when you say you can't afford it and will have to go elsewhere they will immediately drop the price. Sure enough they gave here a quote for $2800. Then after telling them she couldn't do it they dropped it down to $1350.
So, because of this and them having the car for a week and she was getting desperate not having a vehicle to get to work. She asked me to do the repair.
She had it towed to my place. And 6 hrs later I'm test driving it. Had to tap the spark plug hole. Put the timesert in. New coil packs and plugs. Then the fun part of figuring out how to reassemble the top of the engine as they left it in pieces with all the bolts in a bucket.
Runs pretty smooth and has decent power. More then I expected for a little 3L engine
I stopped by at the shop to see the damage and talk to the mechanic. They gave me the scammer, try and squeeze as much cash out of the innocent clueless damsel type of vibe. This was a Midas so I expected better. Guy wearing dirty white T-shirt. No uniforms or anything. Unprofessional looking.
Due to the age and condition of the vehicle and what she paid for it, I try talking the shop into doing the threaded insert repair. They try and tell us there is no threads left to do the repair. And that the damage was too great. They even poke a boroscope down the hole to show me "how bad it is". Looks like stripped threads to me. Nothing I'm not familiar with.
So I tell my friend, if they can do the repair for the $1300 you had budgeted then take it. This is the number she had told them was the maximum she could afford. I said they are going to high ball the number, then when you say you can't afford it and will have to go elsewhere they will immediately drop the price. Sure enough they gave here a quote for $2800. Then after telling them she couldn't do it they dropped it down to $1350.
So, because of this and them having the car for a week and she was getting desperate not having a vehicle to get to work. She asked me to do the repair.
She had it towed to my place. And 6 hrs later I'm test driving it. Had to tap the spark plug hole. Put the timesert in. New coil packs and plugs. Then the fun part of figuring out how to reassemble the top of the engine as they left it in pieces with all the bolts in a bucket.
Runs pretty smooth and has decent power. More then I expected for a little 3L engine
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I have one shop that is my go-to for things I just cant do. Gerry and his guys do great work for an honest price. It will absolutely suck when he decides to retire and closes his shop.
I dont trust anyone else, not even the dealer I used to take my cars to. Their quality control went completely to hell.
I dont trust anyone else, not even the dealer I used to take my cars to. Their quality control went completely to hell.
Figured I'd finish a project I started 4 years ago. Getting rid of the pushmatic panel, and installing a common style breakers, had a few go bad, most of those pushmatic are 40+ years old. Need main disconnect as well.. that'll happen later.
Not adding any more load then currently there, probably split some circuits up though. Main cables probably get upgraded later
Not adding any more load then currently there, probably split some circuits up though. Main cables probably get upgraded later
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I can only recall working on one pushmatic panel. Weird breakers. Definitely understand wanting to upgrade it
If I'm not mistaken, that Siemens PN panel is a blade type breaker. I've seen more failures from blade style breakers then any other type. From homeline, GE, Bryant, Murray, etc. though I can't recall any specifically from Siemens. But the part that clips or slides onto the buss bar always gets hot, oxidized and eventually corrodes and burns. This will damage the buss bar to some extent but I've been able to clean them up and get people back running after a new breaker.
My preferred breaker is the square D QO as I've worked with thousands of those with little failures. I cam only recall one breaker that had the clamp to the buss bar burn/corrod. It was on an exterior application for a rooftop condenser unit.
I always recommend square D QO breakers as they are reliable, cheap and available in all the hardware stores. Even though they are almost always used in commercial applications they seem to be well suited for residential too. QOB breakers are good too but you can't find them as easily
This is the last load center I did a few years ago using QO breakers
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Bought it late '20, so little late to swap out, lol.. it was smallest 200a panel at Lowe's at the time.
Afaik and IIRC the square D QO breakers are compatible with this panel.
And a picture of my "service disconnect" 🫣
Only time I'm really pulling any circuit hard is the 240 40/50 circuits when either running my 5HP compressor or big welder
Afaik and IIRC the square D QO breakers are compatible with this panel.
And a picture of my "service disconnect" 🫣
Only time I'm really pulling any circuit hard is the 240 40/50 circuits when either running my 5HP compressor or big welder
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I think the square D homeline is what fits your panel. QO has round clips for the buss bars while homeline is a flat blate that slides into the breakerBought it late '20, so little late to swap out, lol.. it was smallest 200a panel at Lowe's at the time.
Afaik and IIRC the square D QO breakers are compatible with this panel.
And a picture of my "service disconnect" 🫣
Only time I'm really pulling any circuit hard is the 240 40/50 circuits when either running my 5HP compressor or big welder
Since you are sticking with the panel you got, put the antioxidant paste on the buss bar where the breaker slides on to keep the corrosion down and extend the life
This stuff should work for that. Even the silicone we use for spark plug boots would be better than nothing
It's 40 amp per a line for a total of 40 amps. Hows that answer for you
. Actually, what you are doing is increasing the voltage by pulling from each phase but you are still limited to the 40 amps. You can use it for 120v by pulling from one side but there isn't much on 120v that uses 40 anps. Maybe an RV. But if you tap of of both sides of the breaker then you are going to get 240v between them. If you try and bridge the two together to try and get 80 amps then you'll short it out.So, in short. Only 40 amps
Forgot voltage multiply and amps are constant on 2 pole setups.It's 40 amp per a line for a total of 40 amps. Hows that answer for you
So, in short. Only 40 amps
Funny you should mention RVs, been living in a '99 RV for last 4 years, it has 30A at 120V generally a 8/2 or 10/2 supply cable... I plan is to rewire it for 50A service which runs 50A/120V on two individual lines and a 4 wire setup, think the technical term is "split phase"?
I'll use at least 6/3 wire for shore connection and at least that big for connection.
For the most part it's done, get some sheathing for the stripped wires, pickup up another 2 pole breaker and another single pole breaker
Split phase often times refers to two separate lines with a shared neutral. Or sometimes called multi phase branch circuit. RVs are often like this. Two hots on different phases with a common neutral. 30 or 50 amps are the usual size
The befitts are the ability to get 240 volts or 120 volts as needed from thee wires. If pulling 120v loads from each line then the neutral only carries the in balance or difference between the loads so only one neutral is needed. If both hot lines are on the same phase then you'd need separate neutrals and not have the ability to get 240 volts either. Plus you'll need 4 wires. So a split phase is desirable
Split phase on induction motors is not really the same thing.
The befitts are the ability to get 240 volts or 120 volts as needed from thee wires. If pulling 120v loads from each line then the neutral only carries the in balance or difference between the loads so only one neutral is needed. If both hot lines are on the same phase then you'd need separate neutrals and not have the ability to get 240 volts either. Plus you'll need 4 wires. So a split phase is desirable
Split phase on induction motors is not really the same thing.
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Took some of the scrap service line in to Lowe's, it appears supply is aluminum stranded 2/0 and ground is labeled 2awg and aluminum stranded.
Pulled this on google search
IDK if 3/0 cooper will fit in a 1.5 conduit
Pulled this on google search
IDK if 3/0 cooper will fit in a 1.5 conduit
Don't follow on the "bushings", please elaborate.
I've found same data you posted.
What I have not found is "X amps at Y size for Z distance." Chart. I can easily find it for 12V systems.
I put in a 200A 240V 1ph panel.
I'm looking at ~90' 100' tops of run length between service panel and meter junction box.
I have a hard time believing a 200A system uses same size cable on a 100' run as a 1000' run without degradation of voltage at the end.
That said, general info I found, a 2/0 aluminum stranded cable is "rated" 100-115A is the generally accepted limit. That's assuming my stuff it's 2/0.
Measuring some diameter, with sheathing the service cable floats around ~0.530"
Stripped of the PVC sheathing off, the aluminum strands bundle measurement 0.360-0.365"
Those measurements seam to be bigger than advertised 2/0 aluminum cables but smaller than 3/0 aluminum stranded that's currently available.
3/0 aluminum seams to be rated at 150-175A pending direct buried or conduit.
Rough gues, this stuff was installed late 70s early 80s, I'm sure standards have changed a few times
Edit rough.google search I can run 3-3/0 in a 1.5 sch 40 conduit, though I'm sure I'll have to work at it.
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Generally you are going to use a voltage drop calculator to determine if you need to upsize the gauge. Back 20 years ago in class we did this by hand. No days the calculators are all over the Internet. If I remember correctly, NEC requires no more then 3% to the panels and 2% to the outlet for a 5% maximum drop over the whole run from the meter to the outlet
This is a good calculator
wiresizecalculator.net
This is a good calculator
Voltage Drop Calculator
The purpose of this calculator is to determine voltage drop, percent voltage drop, and voltage at load based on the length of the circuit.
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