Its not a big deal swinging the condenser out of the way, just bend it slowly/carefully/no more than you have to.
Its not a big deal swinging the condenser out of the way, just bend it slowly/carefully/no more than you have to.
I was looking at that today, seems like theres enough room/slack were I can leave the A.C. unit intact without cracking any of the lines. I really dont think the motor is going to be all that hard to remove after looking things over today, Atleast I hope so. I figure 4-6 hrs to get it out of the truck with 2 guys?? Guess I will know how much I underestimated it this weekend
Ben did a really nice write up on how tro remove an engine. Let us know how things go this weekend.
I did not see a DIY from Ben I will definetly give you all an update when I tear into it:thumb:
Sorry for the incorrect name drop. Lesson learned my bad. Here is the tread I was thinking about...(must have sniffed to many paint fumes!)
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21483
there is a flat spot in the upper oil pan on pass side near the back iirc ....... btw i just ordered my parts from that list on the jegs site
Thanks :hug: Does it matter were I tap the pan?
What is the reason to swedge down to 3/8"?Drain line:
also will need a 37/64 drill bit, a right angle drill (small) and a 3/8npt tap
555 100128 - Blue 45 deg Flare Fitting 3/8" NPT to 45 deg -10AN flare
555 100053 - Straight Push-Loc Hose End -10AN
555 102030 - Push-Loc Hose Black -10AN 5 ft
i used approx 3.5 ft of the drain line, if i were to do it again i would probably go with braided line for this too but the rubber seems to be working great so far and doesn't destory everything it rubs against.
Jason above is a list from Mainers diy twin list , as Simon said tap your oil pan while its out to save you some hassle
you might as well add a cam hile your in there :rofl::rofl::rofl: whats being done to the heads?