ARP's & Head Gaskets, oppinions appreciated

[custom8726]

If you are not touching the heads just go with C's thats what I did and you cant really tell aiffrence

I am hoping I do not have to touch the heads, as that would require me to ship them and increase down time significantly..

While I have you guy's (& Gal's) attention, What else should I do while the motor is out to make my twin install easier? I planned on doing MPI twins this month but it's going to have to wait another month or 2 untill I get the engine strait. Unless it's a huge differance in install time for the twins with the motor out?? If so I could make it happen this month If I have to

 

[Krazykid]

I am hoping I do not have to touch the heads, as that would require me to ship them and increase down time significantly..

While I have you guy's (& Gal's) attention, What else should I do while the motor is out to make my twin install easier? I planned on doing MPI twins this month but it's going to have to wait another month or 2 untill I get the engine strait. Unless it's a huge differance in install time for the twins with the motor out?? If so I could make it happen this month If I have to

This must be nice.......I would love to say I'm ready for twins......Not going to happen this year with the news of Head gaskets going out! Just want the truck running correctly again......I think I have a bad CP3 as well....

 

[kman2468]

man reading all these headgaskets stories in the LLY's worry me

 

[custom8726]

man reading all these headgaskets stories in the LLY's worry me

I would not lose any sleep over it I have been running the sh!t out of my 05 for the last 2 year's at 500+ WHP and this is the first engine problem I have had.

 

[sweetdiesel]

C's are the thickest

You can put what was already on there.
If you are running a big tune it wont hurt to drop the compression a bit

the C's will drop your compression a little bit but you cant tell

Kevin your advice is great but if you do a seach on head gasket thickness you will find your info is not 100%

It is recomended that you straiten the heads......there are options though

Best of luck!

 

[kman2468]

I would not lose any sleep over it I have been running the sh!t out of my 05 for the last 2 year's at 500+ WHP and this is the first engine problem I have had.

i wont loose sleep lol but it still worries me
i just did my MP after 125k miles and my truck overheated once in temp at 115 towing up hills
i cant believe they didnt blow then

 

[TheBac]

Im pretty sure using feeler gauges with a decent straightedge laid diagonally across the head will help you figure out any head warpage. I know it'd be a PITA to do, and am not sure just how far you want to go, but since the engine is already out, Id look into getting the cam and crank keyed and the pistons delipped.

Its funny how once you get the motor out, all these things you could or should do suddenly rear their ugly heads. Its not all that hard to spend $5k on a "basic" Dmax build before gaskets, let alone how quickly $10k can be spent. Sheesh. Good luck with whatever you choose to do...it is a nice learning experience tearing one of these engines down.

Simon, I didnt realize LLYs had any more of an issue with HGs than any other Dmax model.

 

[Krazykid]

Im pretty sure using feeler gauges with a decent straightedge laid diagonally across the head will help you figure out any head warpage. I know it'd be a PITA to do, and am not sure just how far you want to go, but since the engine is already out, Id look into getting the cam and crank keyed and the pistons delipped.

Its funny how once you get the motor out, all these things you could or should do suddenly rear their ugly heads. Its not all that hard to spend $5k on a "basic" Dmax build before gaskets, let alone how quickly $10k can be spent. Sheesh. Good luck with whatever you choose to do...it is a nice learning experience tearing one of these engines down.

Simon, I didnt realize LLYs had any more of an issue with HGs than any other Dmax model.

I'm not really looking to go much futher with the engine build just fix what's broken at this point. I wish I could add twins, etc. Just don't have the $$$$$.

 

[custom8726]

Im pretty sure using feeler gauges with a decent straightedge laid diagonally across the head will help you figure out any head warpage. I know it'd be a PITA to do, and am not sure just how far you want to go, but since the engine is already out, Id look into getting the cam and crank keyed and the pistons delipped.

Its funny how once you get the motor out, all these things you could or should do suddenly rear their ugly heads. Its not all that hard to spend $5k on a "basic" Dmax build before gaskets, let alone how quickly $10k can be spent. Sheesh. Good luck with whatever you choose to do...it is a nice learning experience tearing one of these engines down.

Simon, I didnt realize LLYs had any more of an issue with HGs than any other Dmax model.

I am weighing out my option's right now, but a set of Rod's and keyed cam/crank would be nice Really depends on how quick I can get it done, If its going to be a month, or 2 month process, I am going to just buy another motor for the time being.

 

[custom8726]

Ok, I found a semi-local builder thanks to Main04max :hug:... So I decided to pass on the second motor since the builder told me he could get my long block back to me within a week:thumb: I do have a couple questions since this is still going to be a budget build. The plan right now is to install carrilo Rod's, De-lip my current pistons, key the cam & Crank, Install standard ARP head studs, clean,mill,etc, heads as needed.. My questions are, how crucial is it to de-lip the pistons when my goal is to be around 700WHP with twins? Also how crucial is it to have the rotating assembly balanced? Should I be looking at main studs aswell? Any other usefull info would be appreciated as I plan on having him order my parts tomorrow (3/12/10) and dropping my motor off to him this weekend. Any little tricks to save me some time pulling the motor would also be appreciated.

 

[ripmf666]

Just me I'm not running main studs. Also save some and run crower rods. My pistons are cut and deliped and coated I'm running at 0 deck height and running c head gaskets and STD arp studs. My motor is balanced also.

 

[bullfrogjohnson]

carillos and crowers are the same price henry. They are both 2699 on guy's site.

 

[ripmf666]

carillos and crowers are the same price henry. They are both 2699 on guy's site.

Someone needs to ask Guy about that. I know I paid less for my crowers if anything the carillos would be more.

 

[custom8726]

Just me I'm not running main studs. Also save some and run crower rods. My pistons are cut and deliped and coated I'm running at 0 deck height and running c head gaskets and STD arp studs. My motor is balanced also.

Ok, So I need not worry about the main studs, but should get my rotating assembly balanced? The builder said it was an additional $600.00 to balance everything, sound about right? I already purchased the STD, ARP studs last week so that's a definete. What is the point of cutting the pistons and not just the lip? I want to keep my compression pretty close to stock. Thanks for the info thus far :hug:

 

[custom8726]

Someone needs to ask Guy about that. I know I paid less for my crowers if anything the carillos would be more.

My builder qouted me less ^^ but I did review Guy's site and the Howards were the only ones that were more expensive. Regardless the builder recomended carillos from his previous experience, and I have heard alot of good things about them on this and other boards, so I guess thats the route I am going unless there is a substantial differance in price????

 

[duratothemax]

additional 600 dollars just to balance sounds a little steep...IMO.

 

[ripmf666]

My balance job cost around 500.00 was done up in NY on the border of Canada by a shop that does alot of big trucks and race motors had another 175 in shipping. I know some shops are cheaper but after shipping it adds up to the same. I went from 16.5 to 1 to 16 to 1 now

 

[custom8726]

additional 600 dollars just to balance sounds a little steep...IMO.

I have no idea what the going rate is Assuming $600.00 is average or even a little on the high end, would you have the balancing done?

 

[maine04max]

Jason . im glad you were able to work things out :thumb:
after seeing Tom's info on his tear down (crank walk) I would think about main studs

 

[custom8726]

My balance job cost around 500.00 was done up in NY on the border of Canada by a shop that does alot of big trucks and race motors had another 175 in shipping. I know some shops are cheaper but after shipping it adds up to the same. I went from 16.5 to 1 to 16 to 1 now

And that is accomplished by,,, the heads being milled, the H.G. thickness, the pistons being cut, or all of the above?? Is it nessary to mess with compression with expected power levels in the mid 6's to 7ooWHP??