Thanks again for the contact info Craig:thumb: I take it you are having main studs installed?? What about balancing? Your thoughts??
ARP's & Head Gaskets, oppinions appreciated
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Thanks again for the contact info Craig:thumb: I take it you are having main studs installed?? What about balancing? Your thoughts??
My heads were never touched or the deck. Look at the Gm specs you have alot of room before they need milled. I called Guy he was on the other line to check the price on the crower rods. And yes it should be balanced when changing out from stock rods to a aftermarket rod. Go back and look at how much they took out of my crank to balance it from when I built it.
ya I definitely wanted the main studs , even if only for insurance . I knew he was high on the balancing price .... but the end pricing was what i looked at ... as far as if to balance i wouldnt even think about not doing it .......... the weight of our rotating mass is pretty heavy in my opinion . a strictly race motor may be a different story ,,, but mine will be a daily driver
Ok, I guess I will have it balanced then. I am trying to keep this on a budget
as the more I spend now the longer it is going to be before I can afford my twins and fuel upgrades IDK though, when the motor gets built its going to be tuff not to break out the CC and buy the rest of the goodies
Mine aswell
I really am not b!tching about the balancing price, just justifying the need. I am convinced now, And the fact he is going to bang it out within a week is worth something in it's self. I just don't want to skimp on anything crucial now. Still contemplating the Main studs Isn't there more to it then just installing the main studs? I thought I read something about additional machine work/honing nessary in conjunction to installing the main studs?
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Mine aswell
Yes the block must be line honed for the studs and best alsowith the head studs in also. But I'm still for the stockers that's just me.
Im not trying to argue Henry .... but after what Tom (thebac) saw on crank walk dont you think its probably a good idea?
If the crank walked I would be also getting the thrust area checked on the crank. And looking at the block for areas were the crank might of touched it. Most of the time when you have a crack walk you wear the thrust journal area on the crank and it's junk most of the time and you need a new crankshaft also.
That's why I say it's up to you if you want to run them I will stay with stockers. For others that want to feel safe spend the 270 for studs and 240 to line hone the block. Only way I'm running studs is if I'm using a girdle and caps but then I should start to worry about the weak block then.
That's why I say it's up to you if you want to run them I will stay with stockers. For others that want to feel safe spend the 270 for studs and 240 to line hone the block. Only way I'm running studs is if I'm using a girdle and caps but then I should start to worry about the weak block then.
Dimitri's main bearings still showed signs of walking even with the main studs, I am curious what my bearings will like after tearing the motor down this winter ( if it makes it that long , it should though ) on stock main bolts , I agree if you have the money its a good idea though , I will most likely swithc to main studs and a girdle at the same time .
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pretty much everything , minus girdle, billet caps and forged pistons. I think he put a girdle in it this go round , I know he wanted too not sure if he ended up having the coin or not .
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Ok, I guess I will have it balanced then. I am trying to keep this on a budget:rolleyes: as the more I spend now the longer it is going to be before I can afford my twins and fuel upgrades
Ya, good luck with that. Finding that out myself. :rofl:
BTW, my crank didnt show signs of walking. My caps did, though. Thrust bearings were still ok. After thinking about it for a few days, Im not going to use main studs in my build. To heck with it, Ill risk it. Im not going to be making a gazillion hp or turning 6k rpm...
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Are you getting your's balanced? I think as of now I am going to skip the main studs, but do the balancing. Any suggestions on pulling the motor, or is it just like any other motor? I have pulled/installed plenty of motors, just never a duramax.
lots of pics and lots of glad bag for the small parts.if you have a paint marker it also helps and try and keep bolts and brakets togther that need to be. take your time its not that bad at all.
Sadly, balancing will have to be done on mine, since Im changing rods, delipping pistons and using new rings. I dont know what the cost will be.
Print out Durallymax's engine removal DIY....it helped me immensely. Engine leveler helps a ton, too.
Take your time, bag bolts/clips as you take them off (quart Ziplocs will be your best friends) and map out anything that you think you may not remember later.
IMO, it'd be a good idea to have the A/C system purged before you start, unless you're confident you can swing the condenser and compressor out of the way (I couldnt).
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I have the LB7 (work truck) to remind me were things go for the most part. I know there not exactly the same but close
I will take your advice and pick up some bags, and a paint marker tomorrow. Thanks....
I will see If I can find that DIY thread:thumb: I am pretty good about keeping things organized, but there will be 2 sets of hands involved so I think I might keep the camera handy just in case.
The actual pulling of the motor does not scare me, I know I can get it done, I just dont want to waiste a ton of time pulling or not pulling certain thing's. Its funny how after you do something once it generally takes half the time the next go round
Oh no big deal. Its just its two different things. As Henry said, caps can be addressed, but if the crank is walking and wearing the thrust surface, it cant be fixed.
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