So I'm finally getting a built engine!!! Wondering if there are any daily driven billet cranks out there. Looking at the 800-1000hp range right now but probably end up north of that sooner than later. My luck always sucks so I'm trying to plan ahead and do it right the first time. Thanks
Any billet cranks in DD'ers?
- Thread starter Al's max
- Start date
I'm going with a new lml crank. I've heard of a couple billet ones breaking too. So there wasn't enough proof for me to justify the money.
Same here. Probably a different stroke too at the point
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For the price of the Callies I see no reason you wouldn't use a billet crank. Especially if your north of 800hp.
Waglers price on a complete balanced rotating assembly is a steel of deal, and it comes with a billet crank.
Waglers price on a complete balanced rotating assembly is a steel of deal, and it comes with a billet crank.
Billet cranks of completely stock configuration break but the question is the narrowed rod journal versions... Time will tell but I can tell you right now that my favorite billet crank so far is the Bryant because it has the thickest throws which is what we need the most. The best combo overall would be the Bryant with L5P rod journal size! I can tell you the next time my crank breaks I will not be putting a stock one back in period!
That's right, I'm speaking about the narrowed journal versions. I understand that narrowing the journal allows a larger corner fillet to be used which increases crosssection in the area prone to breaking (correct?). But you've now reduced crossection on the journal itself alongside reducing surface area for bearing wear (correct?) so that is why I have reservations about them in a DD. That's just my humble opinion.
I just know 5k is a lot for the average joe to spend on a crank.
Now the l5p has larger journals so it's a completely different animal. You have increased wear surfaces, increased cross section, increased mass for dampening. I wonder how much these will cost, and if it even possible to retro fit one in an older block, I doubt it but will be interesting as things fold out for us!
Mark, that's the first I've heard on the Bryant crank.
the callies crank is 3.5k. not sure what the bryant is. the callies is what i planned on putting in unless an L5P crank and stock rods prove to be as strong as they look 
After talking with Randy Winberg, and Callies in person this past weekend. What make's his crank higher end then Callies? As he say's Wagler uses his crank's in higher hp build's? And the Callies is not anywhere near the quality, as those were the words' straight from his mouth. Being that the crank is about the cost, of a good set of rod's and piston's. If it indeed is the ultimate fix for the crank, as AF Cams' are still breaking crank's. I see no reason why price would have any influence on it.
How many new cranks have broke that was running af cams from the day it was installed? All the ones I seen break was people using used cranks that was ran with old ones. I do think power levels play a huge role.
I only know of less then a handful that broke with AF cam and new lml crank, in a build. The cam was suppose too be the fix, and has proved to me, and a good number of us that it is not the case. But you're exactly right, they have broken many more using an old crank. And what you use the truck for at the power level is a huge role.
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there are very few that have built engines and DD them. guys that build them generally use them for fun or drag trucks. Most that DD them will not be running around on 800+ tunes either. For one, you will need 4wd all the time to even use and Two, you get that high in the HP and you will wear the drivetrain out quickly.
the other thing is turnover rate. ive seen alot of guys (not on this forum) that have built their engines and made awesome power, then sold the truck not but a year or two later because they had too many things nickle and dime them (engine related or not) or it just wasnt as well rounded of a truck as they had thought.