amateur engine pull?

sweetdiesel

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
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Redbowties88 said:
no the one on the last page where the guy is selling his stand and hoist as a combo for 275




for the 100 bucks for a stand ide rather have it then mess around on a ne with pallet... probably just the head gasket but i do have some pistons here that need cutting and coating... if i do find some extra cash (if work picks up a little) i would like to get rods and add them with the pistons i have and be done with it (not that simple i know)

(or at least hope to be done, sorry for your crank loss :()
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FYI to put a dmax on a motor stand you are looking at removal of the lower , upper oil pan and rear adapter plate.
Then u need new gasket for oil cooler and new rear seal plus the remove / installl tool and possible new orange o rings that go between the rear plate and block
 
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custom8726

custom8726

Active member
Feb 25, 2008
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sweetdiesel said:
FYI to put a dmax on a motor stand you are looking at removal of the lower , upper and rear adapter plate.
Then u need new gasket and new rear seal plus the remove / installl tool
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Why? I mean why can't you just use longer bolts through 4 of the Adapter/intermediate bolt holes that go into the block?:confused: After you pull the flywheel of course :)
 
sweetdiesel

sweetdiesel

That's better
Aug 6, 2006
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custom8726 said:
Why? I mean why can't you just use longer bolts through 4 of the Adapter/intermediate bolt holes that go into the block?:confused: After you pull the flywheel of course :)
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I geuss....Never thought about it. Never put a motor on a stand for just top end stuff.





I think the OP should do it him self just for a learning experiance:cool:
 
custom8726

custom8726

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Feb 25, 2008
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sweetdiesel said:
I geuss....Never thought about it. Never put a motor on a stand for just top end stuff.





I think the OP should do it him self just for a learning experiance:cool:
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OK, just making sure I did not F something up :thumb: I honestly would not even bother putting it on a engine stand for Head Gaskets, A pallet works just fine;)
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
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Dont bother pulling the fenders or bumper IMO.

Definitely get a screw-type engine leveler.

Also if you have a buddy or two to help you that makes things a lot easier. Doing removal and replace of a duramax is completely possible with only one person, but it takes a bit longer.

ben
 
MMLMM

MMLMM

Tunergeek
Mar 2, 2008
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www.dyncal.com
this is my LMM but gives you an idea of what we pulled to get the motor out. Came out easier, and didnt worry about scratching up my pained bumper and such.

ATT00001.jpg
 
whitetrash21

whitetrash21

put on da damn helmet day
Apr 29, 2008
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custom8726 said:
OK, just making sure I did not F something up :thumb: I honestly would not even bother putting it on a engine stand for Head Gaskets, A pallet works just fine;)
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Good to know. I was gonna drag mine up from San Diego, but I didn't think it'd take a dressed out Dury without going all hunchback on me.
 
custom8726

custom8726

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Feb 25, 2008
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duratothemax said:
well yeah you kinda have to. :)

..Im 99% sure its not possible to get the engine out with the front stack still in place. Oil pan wont clear.
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Correct ^^, The firt time I pulled my motor I used a knuckle boom so I had plenty of lift but the motor is to long to fit out of the engine bay with the radiator support still (Completly) intact. I loosened the upper half of the Rad support and pulled and yanked and squeezed the motor out with the support still bolted up on the bottom, but it was a huge PITA and I would never pull a Duramax engine again that way..
 
Sledhead

Sledhead

Mountain Pass Machine
Nov 29, 2008
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Last time I did it I removed only the pass fender. It only takes about 15 min, makes it easier to remove TC bolts and gives clearance to get the stack out. Too much clutter on the drivers side to warrant its removal IMO.

Also IMO and considering $$$, you will be back on the road faster and cheaper putting a stocker in. It may be a good enough challenge and then you can decide to do the build or not.
 
M

maxxflip

New member
Apr 25, 2009
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duratothemax said:
well yeah you kinda have to. :)

..Im 99% sure its not possible to get the engine out with the front stack still in place. Oil pan wont clear.
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Nothing is impossible....The excavator pulled many motors out , clearance wasnt an issue...:angel: :rofl:

Just saying, you never know what people will try and do that have no experience.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
7,139
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Wyoming
maxxflip said:
Nothing is impossible....The excavator pulled many motors out , clearance wasnt an issue...:angel: :rofl:

Just saying, you never know what people will try and do that have no experience.
Click to expand...

And the turbo doesnt hit the cowl if you try to pull the motor straight up with the front stack and radiator still all in place? Im sorry, Id have to see pictures of this...
 
GeorgiaDieselGTO

GeorgiaDieselGTO

Wants to drive his truck
May 12, 2010
102
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Crossville
Look i seen a ford shop that had pulled the motor out of a Dmax with out pulling the front clip. dont ask me how they did it cause i aint got a clue. But i guess it can be done. It looked like there had been a "bump" or two on the way out tho :rofl:

As far as engine stands we have an otc. obviously a good bit of money but they are the best. I always pull the motor and put it on the otc with the back plate on and tear the top end down and take the pans off, they take it off the stand, take the plate off and then put it on the stand in my avatar. then the crank and all can come out
 
Bluemax

Bluemax

???????????
Sep 25, 2006
846
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Missouri
If you pull everything off the front of the engine(both acc mounting brackets, fan hub, and damper) while it's in the truck it will come out without taking the core support out of it but it's really tight and hard to do by yourself, so says a few scratches in my firewall and down pipe, and it's a lot easier to pull the core support out. I've done it both ways. I have also heard people say that you can lift it and come forward a little and turn the engine 90deg and lift it straight out, but we tried that once and couldn't figure out how anybody could do it like that and just wound up pulling the core support anyway.
If possible I take a bolt out and once I take off whatever it was holding I put it right back in the hole if it won't get in the way of anything else. That cuts down on bags and tape, and also cuts down on mixing up bolts when you're going back together.
Best bet is taking the support out and leave plenty of room to work and see what you're working on.
 
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