10-4... well thats for the help so far guys.. maybe i can grab a stand and hoist on my next paycheck
amateur engine pull?
- Thread starter Redbowties88
- Start date
Pulling the whole front clip would be even easier, you can pull al that off in under an hr. Plenty of room to work and move around.
Beech if you need a place to do it i'll rent you a bay in my shop for as long as you need. I have access to an air powered hoist, but I do have a pump one too if you're feeling froggy:thumb:
Learn by doing man. Look at it this way, it's your truck and not someone paying you to do the work.
Beech if you need a place to do it i'll rent you a bay in my shop for as long as you need. I have access to an air powered hoist, but I do have a pump one too if you're feeling froggy:thumb:
Learn by doing man. Look at it this way, it's your truck and not someone paying you to do the work.
thanks kyle, ill def keep that in mind.
i have a semi-heated ground level basement that would be perfect for dong the actual motor work... it would just be getting the motor out of the truck and into the garage that seems like it would be the biggest hurdle
i have a semi-heated ground level basement that would be perfect for dong the actual motor work... it would just be getting the motor out of the truck and into the garage that seems like it would be the biggest hurdle
Ya I'd pull the front clip myself.I was gonna mention that myself
Those Pep-Boys Autozone stands are junk. I have one kicking around here with a A833 manual transmission hanging off it ,you can pick it up yourself easy and the stand shakes bends etc. POS.
The Ratchet stands are nice but most have a solid pin holding it enough either straight up or upside what other position do you need? Once you strip the top of the motor you should be able to turn it upside down yourself. Get you GF to slide the pin in.
If your money bags get the drip tray for the stand.
Those Pep-Boys Autozone stands are junk. I have one kicking around here with a A833 manual transmission hanging off it ,you can pick it up yourself easy and the stand shakes bends etc. POS.
The Ratchet stands are nice but most have a solid pin holding it enough either straight up or upside what other position do you need? Once you strip the top of the motor you should be able to turn it upside down yourself. Get you GF to slide the pin in.
If your money bags get the drip tray for the stand.
not bad mackin, but if the harbor one is tried and true and i can get it at my local store for slightly less i think ill go with that one lol
Hey Beech,
What was the final diagnosis of what is wrong with your motor. Is it just the head gaskets? I was following along in your compression tester thread but I didn't see a final diagnosis there. Maybe I missed it.
Sorry for the OT in advance, but what are you going to beat the piss out of while the truck is down.
What was the final diagnosis of what is wrong with your motor. Is it just the head gaskets? I was following along in your compression tester thread but I didn't see a final diagnosis there. Maybe I missed it.
Sorry for the OT in advance, but what are you going to beat the piss out of while the truck is down.
yet to be a written in concrete answer, pretty sure the head gasket is toast... if not perhaps some piston damage. either way it needs to be pulled..
I use a 2000lb stand i got at harbor freight (looks identical to Mackins)for working on engines, i have a 1500lb one from car quest (auto parts store) that wont even hold a assembled engine. It site in the corner with my spare long block on it and that it! The stress of the torquing head studs up to 125 could be enough to put a "almost" heavy enough stand in the scrap pile along with your block and prob a couple toes!!
I have found good tools from here.
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Engine-Equipment-s/102.htm
these 2 threads might help you some also.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5608&page=2
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6679
If you take a look at the Gm spec area it has almost a the Gm specs you need to pull and rebuild your motor. If something is missing I can add it but many have used it and said it had more info then any book they had.
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Engine-Equipment-s/102.htm
these 2 threads might help you some also.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5608&page=2
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6679
If you take a look at the Gm spec area it has almost a the Gm specs you need to pull and rebuild your motor. If something is missing I can add it but many have used it and said it had more info then any book they had.
thanks guys,
caleb i still may end up getting cold feet and giving you a call...
henry all that info will surely come in handy :hug:
caleb i still may end up getting cold feet and giving you a call...
henry all that info will surely come in handy :hug:
Like others said, pull the front clip. I start with the head lights and marker lights, then the grill. The grill has one bolt in the center and snap clips holding the rest of it. I also pull the front bumper which is not necessary but makes life easier IMO. It has 6 bolts that hold it on, and everything comes off whole, (Bumper, front valance, fog's, etc.) The transmission cooler and AC condensor can be un-bolted and set to the side. Diconect the hood latch from the Rad support (3 10m bolts), There are a bunch of wires clipped to the radiator support, take your time and un-clip them. There are 4 bolts that hold the radiaor support to the fenders and 2 bigger bolts that come up from the bottom through the frame and rad support. Before you pull those take your radiator shroud out followed by your radiator and Intercooler. Loosen the bolts on your P-side fender to allow more room to pull your radiator support out. Once all of that is out of the way, you will want to pull your ac compressor and zip tie it out of the way towards the P-side windshield. Pull the bolts holding the Power steering pump to the block/bracket and zip tie that out of the way, (Leave the lines hooked up to avoid draining the system and making a bigger mess). Disconect all the grounds, + power stud, alternator wire, etc and set to the side. Pull the starter and from the P-side (without the inner fender liners in), you can disconnect the T.C. from the flywheel while your buddy spins the harmonic balancer over to access each of the 6 bolts. Disconnect the bell housing bolts and support your transmission with a jack, strap, stand, etc.. Pull the 3 smaller motor mount bolts from each side of the motor. Make sure you have 4 secure mounting points on the block/head and remove your engine You will need a couple odd ball tools, but not many, fuel disconects, Big wrench for the fan nut (Like a 1 7/8 or something I forget).. Pulling the engine is not that bad at all, the hardest part is after its removed Get yourself some Baggies and a paint marker before you start dissasembling the upper half of the motor. Oh yeah, you will need 4 -4 & 3/4" 12M standard/coarse thread bolts to mount your motor to the engine stand. I read somewere on here that head bolts would work but there a finer thread. Which reminds me, you will need a big set of metric allen sockets to remove the flywheel. I did not have any (Big) metric allen sockets so I ground down a 9/16 allen socket to fit :thumb:
You will need a couple odd ball tools, but not many, fuel disconects, Big wrench for the fan nut (Like a 1 7/8 or something I forget).. Pulling the engine is not that bad at all, the hardest part is after its removed Get yourself some Baggies and a paint marker before you start dissasembling the upper half of the motor. Oh yeah, you will need 4 -4 & 3/4" 12M standard/coarse thread bolts to mount your motor to the engine stand. I read somewere on here that head bolts would work but there a finer thread. Which reminds me, you will need a big set of metric allen sockets to remove the flywheel. I did not have any (Big) metric allen sockets so I ground down a 9/16 allen socket to fit :thumb:Get one that's rated for at least 2,000lbs. Most 1,000 and 1,500lb hoists are not rated for enough at full boom "extension". Duramax weighs about 900lbs. But you're going to need a hoist that can lift at least that much with the lifting boom all the way out.
Also, if you don't have a 36mm socket to turn over the motor at the balancer to get the TC bolts out, you can use a socket on the alt pulley assuming your serp belt is still on. It doesn't seem like it would work, but if you go slowly, you can turn the motor over with that small alt pulley. You have the advantage of small turning big, too.
I also highly recommend getting an engine leveler for the hoist. Helpfull all around, but especially right after you get the motor "unmated" from the trans and off the frame; you want to tilt the motor as far forward as possible to drain as much coolant as possible out of the water pump. Otherwise, whenever you rock, tilt, swing, or move the motor, you'll get a nice splash of sticky dexcool.
I also highly recommend getting an engine leveler for the hoist. Helpfull all around, but especially right after you get the motor "unmated" from the trans and off the frame; you want to tilt the motor as far forward as possible to drain as much coolant as possible out of the water pump. Otherwise, whenever you rock, tilt, swing, or move the motor, you'll get a nice splash of sticky dexcool.
thanks, i do have a 36mm socket..needed a set of big buys for the cv axles. and levelers are only like 30 bucks...guess ill invest in one.
just buy a cheap socket set, rent an engine hoist, and go to town, a shop guide will be the best thing for torque specs and stuff like that pulling a motor and a head isnt that bad really...I always work from the ground and use a forklift to lift the motor out...I have only done one diesel motor but have pulled and rebuild alot of gas motors...it has taken me 4 years to get enough tools to do everything I need but I started out with all chinese crap and they turn bolts too:thumb:
Beech,
I'll be real honest with you. I personally have never pulled a motor in any way shape or form before this past summer when the HG's on my truck gave out. With the help of a lot of people on this forum, quiet a few phone calls to GREAT people like Henry and Guy Tripp to ask some VERY stupid questions about some VERY stupid mistakes that I made, I managed to to get the motor the truck out on a stand disassembled, back together and back in the truck (with the help a friend of mine from College) and fired up and running on the first try! (this came to the surprise to both myself and my wife!)
The advise listed in this thread is fantastic and very true. I only used the information on this site. Henry and a few others have posted all the information and specs you could ever need on here. Finding it can be a little frustrating at times but send a PM to Henry or other and don't be afraid to ask for help.
I used just about a whole role of blue painters tape, one sharpie and less than one box of one gallon zip lock bags. Taking lots of pictures help a great deal, but there is lots of information here. I did make motor pull in the driveway on the ground and used less than 1/4 of my two car garage to do the build. I learned a great deal about my truck and would not think twice about doing it again. My two cents is as you take some thing off the truck lay it out in order from where is can from, ie. when something comes off the front drivers side, keep all those parts together int he order you take them off, this way when putting it back together there isn't much confusion as to where it came off and in what order. I did this in the bed of the truck but I have a cap on the back which kept the parts fairly clean and protected.
Best of luck and dig in! :thumb:
I'll be real honest with you. I personally have never pulled a motor in any way shape or form before this past summer when the HG's on my truck gave out. With the help of a lot of people on this forum, quiet a few phone calls to GREAT people like Henry and Guy Tripp to ask some VERY stupid questions about some VERY stupid mistakes that I made, I managed to to get the motor the truck out on a stand disassembled, back together and back in the truck (with the help a friend of mine from College) and fired up and running on the first try! (this came to the surprise to both myself and my wife!)
The advise listed in this thread is fantastic and very true. I only used the information on this site. Henry and a few others have posted all the information and specs you could ever need on here. Finding it can be a little frustrating at times but send a PM to Henry or other and don't be afraid to ask for help.
I used just about a whole role of blue painters tape, one sharpie and less than one box of one gallon zip lock bags. Taking lots of pictures help a great deal, but there is lots of information here. I did make motor pull in the driveway on the ground and used less than 1/4 of my two car garage to do the build. I learned a great deal about my truck and would not think twice about doing it again. My two cents is as you take some thing off the truck lay it out in order from where is can from, ie. when something comes off the front drivers side, keep all those parts together int he order you take them off, this way when putting it back together there isn't much confusion as to where it came off and in what order. I did this in the bed of the truck but I have a cap on the back which kept the parts fairly clean and protected.
Best of luck and dig in! :thumb: