Sometimes I wonder how some people survived after child birth
Exactly!!!!!!:thumb:
72mm vvt stock motor setup.
- Thread starter Cknight199
- Start date
Exactly!!!!!!:thumb:
No one is against RPM, only when guys want to raise RPM yet the current RPM they are shifting at is already past peak HP.
I think I went through the traps at 3300 can't remember though my 22's are 33" tall.
I'm sure it'll come one day
hopefully on video. If not on the weekend on the edge. I'm nervous with running a 2900 us pulse LOL
My stock turbo liked 3600 rpm I don't see why a 72 wouldn't be able to surpass that with a flatter hp curve.
Not saying it cant happen but if you throw your truck on the dyno and see power has hit its peak at 3000rpm and HP tapers off pretty quick there after, raising your shifts to 3600-3700rpm will slow you down as your way out side your power range. if you have a very flat HP line with hardly any tapering off, you can get away with a little more RPM.
when it comes to shift points, its a balance of your whole setup. adding more air can push the shift points higher at WOT if the fuel is there to support it and vise versa. this is where the dyno can come in handy as a TUNING TOOL so your not shifting too early or too late.
now the shifts at the end of the traps are a different story.
It probably could given the right set up, however on stock fuel and stock engine, that's not going to be the case.
My 4094avant likes 2400-3400 really well on stock fueling, at 2200 the turbo fully lites, at 2400 it pulls hard and burns clean till about 3400, then I can feel it start to fall off the power curve, that may be due to timing or lack of fuel or both. I have 60 overs and a 12mm cp3 waiting to go in right now, I was gonna wait till I got the vgt72 to install everything, it would be much nicer to do it all at once, but now I'm wondering just how much the driving dynamic will change just by adding fuel to my current set up.....
IMO I wouldn't upgrade to the 72, unless you are going to max out the 4094 where it "makes sense" to go bigger. I would try adding fuel to your current setup before upgrading to a larger turbo, the 4094 should be able to clean those 60's up.
Although saying you have a 72mm turbo is always cool
IMO I wouldn't upgrade to the 72, unless you are going to max out the 4094 where it "makes sense" to go bigger. I would try adding fuel to your current setup before upgrading to a larger turbo, the 4094 should be able to clean those 60's up.
Although saying you have a 72mm turbo is always cool
Just prepping to be ready for my engine build, I'm going for 800 horse:angel:
The 4094avant isn't good for much more than 650 from what I've been told, and that's with a billet wheel.
Properly set up, the 72 will out spool and flat out, out perform the cast 4094avant, even on a stock short block:thumb: it should help to keep egt's better in check than the 4094avant when wot too, since it moves a ton more air
It very well could be a case, Jason. its dependent on fuel system health. if you got a freak CP3 that like to hold rail and injectors that hardly return fuel, i could easily see it holding rail up in the upper R's. Most times, the reason you see a a falling HP curve is due to a turbo falling outside its map or rail draining way out.
on small tune, yes. throw a all out race tune in with rail pressure that holds, no way.
Agreed. My 4094 wouldnt clean up dual fuelers and 60s even on an old tune built for stock cp3. The second pump bumped the pressure up and that alone caused it to haze even at 42 pounds of boost! My 72 should be installed along with my new Danville tunes. Problem is I am on a bus in Hawaii so I can't tell you how it runs lol.
Don't forget tuning:happy2:
An adept tuner will know what your dealing with and tune accordingly
I have two auto cals from different tuners, both calibrated to my set up, one tune drains rail like a mo fo in the big tune and throws a low rail code every time I hold wot into the upper rpm, the other tune never has pulled the low rail code and seemingly makes more power too, albeit lower in the rpm, it's something that has always struck me as odd, but i guess the big difference is that the tune that pulls the rail code feels like its still pulling hard when the code pops, the other tune trims the fuel out which is why I think I feel the power start to fall of around 3400rpm but it never throws a rail code, if I had more fuel to play with in this tune I believe that I could run another 3-400 rpm and still be making good power.
Like I said though, an adept tuner will know what parameters to work within for your application:thumb:
Tuning is witchcraft, or wizardry:roflmao:
Holly shit, when did they make a bridge to Hawaii :rofl:
Yeah, I agree with you and James, I don't think a 4094 would be able to clean 60's up very well at all, especially in the upper rpm when the charger starts to choke:spit:
Take my advice because I regret now doing it. When everything is coming apart to install the cp3 and sticks. Send the charger to Danville. Between shipping time and the week or ao mark needs it can take a while but you might as well do it while you're alredy under the hood. Another options would be to line up a buyer for your 4094 then just buy a 72 to install. Either way you will be happier than trying the 4094 then having to change it out later on.
What I mean is the 4094 has enough potential to blow a piston, maybe I'm wrong
People have blown them up with stock chargers. I just figure if Someone is adding fuel they are already playing with fire. Might as well go all the way. "god hates a coward" -Justin Duclos