1992 Dodge D250 Duramax

Well, there is another way. You could listen to the advice from lots of others who already have the experience you're looking for. Drive pressures will be fine with a. 90 housing, it all comes down to fueling. Coming from a 12V you have a bit to learn when it comes to Dmax.

Very well, but when I have you telling me one thing, and my cousin who ran this turbo on his truck as a single and said it wasn't so bad, who am I to believe? Everyone's going to have a different opinion. The word "Lag" varies greatly depending on who you're talking to. The one and only way to know if I can deal with it or if I need to change something is to run it. I do have a lot to learn, but many principles hold the same when talking about different engines.
 
I don't know why everyone is jumping this guys bones. He didn't exactly ask us all "if" he should use this turbo. It's seems he has a budget and has some good knowledge. If he wants to try out the 80 and it works for him, why not? He knows about the rods so he knows the risks. He has not made one jab at anyone here and I'm starting to see some instigation come up cause he's going against the norm. Can we not just sit back and watch something different and see how it works out for HIM and not US?

Cool project and I'm looking forward to see how it turns out! Get yourself a high stall converter and some good tuning for that big turbo.

Thank you sir. I don't want to step on anyone's toes here, just here to learn and share.

I have a Goerend 2800-3000 stall converter I'm going to trade for and my cousin is pretty darn handy with efi live. We'll get it dialed in.
 
What's your wheel/tire & suspension setup that you run 11s with the cummins?

Stiffer front springs to reduce sag, that raised it about 1.5-2" in the front and helped with weight transfer. The rear has the overload and the leaf above it removed and a set of 2-3* pinion blocks to get the pinion angle perfect under load for ideal power transferring ability. Then I used a set of L&L ladder bars with custom made brackets to prevent axle wrap/wheel hop. I used a set of MT 31x10.5W's for tires. At the NHRDA Bakersfield race I launched at 25psi and it didn't spin at all. Should've and could've left harder.
 

hondarider552

Getting faster
May 28, 2008
10,627
2
36
34
Arizona
Drive pressures will go through the roof with a .90 housing. Then I'll need to put an external gate on it and at that point I would be asking myself why I didn't just stay with the 1.10 housing and use a diverter valve. I appreciate the advice, I really do, but I'm coming from driving a mechanically injected 12 valve, those really suck at spooling stuff. There's only one way to tell if I won't like it...:driving:

I saw hardly any difference going from a .90 to a 1.10 ar as far as drive pressure.
 

hondarider552

Getting faster
May 28, 2008
10,627
2
36
34
Arizona
Maybe 600. I never dyno'd this setup.

My issue with finding a .90 housing for this turbo is that the center section is a discontinued part number and finding a housing for it will be a pain in the rear.

Throw up a pic of the center section, we have some pretty smart turbo guys on here that could help :thumb:
 
Throw up a pic of the center section, we have some pretty smart turbo guys on here that could help :thumb:


Here's some pictures of it. The exhaust housing has the a/r ground off but ED said it was a 1.10 when compared to other housings.

guqygubu.jpg

atu4utep.jpg

y4u3y2a7.jpg

verapaqe.jpg

8a2ybe7a.jpg

nejy3uje.jpg
 
Any suggestions on where to get valve springs? It seems like SoCal Diesel is a popular place but does comp cams or anyone else sell them? Are stock pushrods ok to use for my build? Would it be worth getting a set of 20-30% over injector nozzles or is that a waste of money for the relatively low power number I want?
 

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
34
48
43
Lawrenceburg, KY
Stock injectors can make enough power to destroy a stock-rod dmax but I think you'll likely get suggestions to run larger injectors. The thinking is that you'll be able to make the power you want with safer (a.k.a. without such high fuel inj. timing) tuning. Then when it's time to turn up the wick, you're that much more capable. :D

If/when my LB7 injectors go tits up, I'm not putting anything less than 60% overs back in. Quality injectors (even big'uns) can be tuned to run just fine on the street without hazing at idle or smoking when you're mashing the skinny pedal through the floorboard. :thumb:


In addition to SoCal, Hamilton & Greg Houge each offer valve springs as well as Comp Cams. There may be more but I don't know.
 
Stock injectors can make enough power to destroy a stock-rod dmax but I think you'll likely get suggestions to run larger injectors. The thinking is that you'll be able to make the power you want with safer (a.k.a. without such high fuel inj. timing) tuning. Then when it's time to turn up the wick, you're that much more capable. :D

If/when my LB7 injectors go tits up, I'm not putting anything less than 60% overs back in. Quality injectors (even big'uns) can be tuned to run just fine on the street without hazing at idle or smoking when you're mashing the skinny pedal through the floorboard. :thumb:


In addition to SoCal, Hamilton & Greg Houge each offer valve springs as well as Comp Cams. There may be more but I don't know.

I'm thinking that if I can find a set of 40% over nozzles or somewhere around there I'll jump on them. I can't afford new injectors. The ones that came in this motor are refurbished so a set of nozzles should be ok.
 

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
34
48
43
Lawrenceburg, KY
With injectors, you tend to get what youy pay for IMO.

If going a cheaper route, again, IMO its better to use the nozzles from your injectors if you have a good set of injectors rather than swap out nozzles from different bodies. This seems to be even more true with LB7s. That being the case, you can send your nozzles out to be extude honed for pretty cheap (way less than $1000, I'm thinking in the ballpark of 600-700 for 60 overs or there abouts). Your injectors won't be perfectly balanced to one another like an expensive set of injectors that have been honed and then balanced as a unit but its a better option than buying nozzles from different injectors IMO.


I hate that some of the other more experienced guys aren't pitching in with more ideas for you. I feel pretty sure what I've posted is legit but I'd like an experienced person to chime in and verify or set the record straight if I've inadvertantly mislead you.
 
With injectors, you tend to get what youy pay for IMO.

If going a cheaper route, again, IMO its better to use the nozzles from your injectors if you have a good set of injectors rather than swap out nozzles from different bodies. This seems to be even more true with LB7s. That being the case, you can send your nozzles out to be extude honed for pretty cheap (way less than $1000, I'm thinking in the ballpark of 600-700 for 60 overs or there abouts). Your injectors won't be perfectly balanced to one another like an expensive set of injectors that have been honed and then balanced as a unit but its a better option than buying nozzles from different injectors IMO.


I hate that some of the other more experienced guys aren't pitching in with more ideas for you. I feel pretty sure what I've posted is legit but I'd like an experienced person to chime in and verify or set the record straight if I've inadvertantly mislead you.

I was curious why there weren't more guys on here chiming in but oh well, I guess they'll find it eventually. Where do you suggest I go for honing? I just bought a new dsp5 switch for $35. I need an OBDII port as well as I don't have one.