Reminiscing, and setting future goals to beat my old 01 gasser 408/GT4202R 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29o44kdBEcU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29o44kdBEcU
05 LLY into 99 RCSB 1500
- Thread starter thunder550
- Start date
Looks like I got pretty good weight transfer on launch too, I think the slight angles in the front driveline will be good where they are.
I've put the truck on the scale at each of my 2 work sites. Got 5460 with me and 1/4 tank of fuel on one, and 5560 with me and 3/4 tank of fuel on the other. I think the landfill scale that I used the first time was off quite a bit!
HG's may be toast...apparently some coolant came out of the overflow tank last time I drove the truck on Wednesday. Just saw it this afternoon. Coolant level isn't low yet but it definitely puked some out.
4 hours in. Intake manifold looks nasty. Decided I'm going to make my own EGR block off plates, that should save a couple hundred. Also had been looking at a PCV reroute, going to skip that and leave the factory PCV in place. There's a thin film of oil in the boost pipes but it's not bad at all for 180k miles.
Wow, Nice work, awesom build, and bummer your doing head gaskets, but looks like your moving right along. :thumb::thumb:
Thanks! I'm hoping to check head flatness this weekend, then order the head gaskets and other parts I need to put it back together. I'll try to do some cleaning while I'm waiting for parts next week, then reassemble the following week.
Got one cleaned up! Almost done with the second one too. Downpipe and gauges will be here tomorrow. Gauge pod, new gaskets, LML exhaust manifold, and LBZ mouthpiece will be here Thurs. Going to take the passenger side up pipe and one of the intake pieces in to have bungs welded on them for EGT and boost gauges as soon as I get the gauges in.
Today was parts day! Got visits from the brown truck and the green/purple truck....my favorite kind of day
I got one head reassembled and bolted back down, downpipe installed, and passenger exhaust parts all buttoned up.
SDP downpipe
LML manifold...where is a good place to drill and tap this for EGT gauge?
LBZ mouthpiece
Autometer GM factory match fuel pressure, boost, and EGT gauges
I got one head reassembled and bolted back down, downpipe installed, and passenger exhaust parts all buttoned up.
SDP downpipe
LML manifold...where is a good place to drill and tap this for EGT gauge?
LBZ mouthpiece
Autometer GM factory match fuel pressure, boost, and EGT gauges
don't quote me but i think you can only put the probe on the pass side...or at least that's the best place to put it from what i have been told...
there is a little flat spot on the back of the manifold close the the uppipe flange that is perfect for drilling/tapping
Edit: in your picture of the downpipe you can see the flat spot, its the little flat area right dead next to the top bolt at the back of the manifold
there is a little flat spot on the back of the manifold close the the uppipe flange that is perfect for drilling/tapping
Edit: in your picture of the downpipe you can see the flat spot, its the little flat area right dead next to the top bolt at the back of the manifold
That would be great. I wanted to have a bung welded to the passenger side up pipe but i couldn't break the bolts loose. No problem at all to remove the passenger manifold again to drill and tap, but I thought I had heard that most people did it on the driver side. Doesn't make any difference to me.
i did mine while it was still on the truck, i drilled it while the truck was running and when i punched through with the drillbit the exhaust pressure pushed out all of the metal shavings and chips when i tapped the hole(clean dry tap) and i am more then confident nothing went into the turbo.
i was worried about it until i actually did it then realized it was so simple
on a side note: cast iron is incredibly difficult to weld, just an FYI
i was worried about it until i actually did it then realized it was so simple
on a side note: cast iron is incredibly difficult to weld, just an FYI
Thanks for the pic, that helps a lot. Since I have the truck torn mostly apart and I know the bolts will come loose (since I just put it back together), I'll go ahead an pull the manifold back off to get the drill and tap done.
oh i didn't know you already had the manifold off already then that's the best way by far
and as far as driver VS pass sides, i did a ton of research before i did mine and i could not find any info showing or talking about the driver side being used ive only ever seen info on the pass side
and as far as driver VS pass sides, i did a ton of research before i did mine and i could not find any info showing or talking about the driver side being used ive only ever seen info on the pass side
I've had 3 or 4 people on a couple different forums now tell me to do the passenger manifold, so you're right. I'm not sure where I got it in my head that the driver's side was the one to do.
Just do the drivers side manifold, its already off. The reason being everyone does the passenger side is easier access when its on the truck.
^^ that's what I ended up doing
Here was my valve cleaning station this morning Chucked up the valves in the drill, put a clamp on the trigger to get it going, then used a Scotch Brite pad soaked in brake cleaner to get all of the carbon build-up off. Worked great!
I was going to pull the passenger side manifold for the EGT probe, but in order to do that I have to pull the downpipe back out to get to the farthest back bolt. When I started to loosen the v-band clamp that holds the exhaust and downpipe together, the nut started to strip out and seize. I would have had to break the clamp and get a new one to get it off, so I ended up putting the EGT probe in the driver's side instead since it was already off. Found a nice little place to put it.
Probe comes out of the bottom of the manifold, this should keep water from running down the wire and collecting on the probe.
Since I had some 1/4" steel plate left over from doing my motor mount adapters, I went ahead and made an EGR blockoff plate...bolts to the EGR riser and the support bracket that attaches to the back of the head. Should support it just like the EGR cooler did so the pipe won't crack.
Tonight's progress, coming along nicely. I think I'm about 30 hours in at this point. Hoping I can finish this weekend.
Here was my valve cleaning station this morning
Chucked up the valves in the drill, put a clamp on the trigger to get it going, then used a Scotch Brite pad soaked in brake cleaner to get all of the carbon build-up off. Worked great!
I was going to pull the passenger side manifold for the EGT probe, but in order to do that I have to pull the downpipe back out to get to the farthest back bolt. When I started to loosen the v-band clamp that holds the exhaust and downpipe together, the nut started to strip out and seize. I would have had to break the clamp and get a new one to get it off, so I ended up putting the EGT probe in the driver's side instead since it was already off. Found a nice little place to put it.
Probe comes out of the bottom of the manifold, this should keep water from running down the wire and collecting on the probe.
Since I had some 1/4" steel plate left over from doing my motor mount adapters, I went ahead and made an EGR blockoff plate...bolts to the EGR riser and the support bracket that attaches to the back of the head. Should support it just like the EGR cooler did so the pipe won't crack.
Tonight's progress, coming along nicely. I think I'm about 30 hours in at this point. Hoping I can finish this weekend.
My egt probe is on the drivers side fwiw. With where I wanted my gauge the factory gauge harness wasn't long enough to reach across the motor over to the passenger manifold. It didn't look any harder to drill and tap the drivers side than passenger so I just put it there. It works fine.
sent from a galaxy far far away
sent from a galaxy far far away