I believe the first one is the aux connector for trucks with dual tanks. In other words, its unused. I could be wrong thgough
05 LLY into 99 RCSB 1500
- Thread starter thunder550
- Start date
Thanks guys! Multiple people see to be in agreement that the first one is unused. In the wiring diagram and according to a member on another site, the sensor looks to be the outside temp sensor for the auto climate control. I drilled a hole for it and mounted it to the gap guard thingy below the passenger side parking light.
So I found an interesting issue...nothing at all works in the passenger door.
I tested the signal mirror, mirror movement, window, and door lock on the driver's door, all works, but none of that works on the passenger door, neither from the driver's control nor the passenger control.
I'm wondering if I have an issue since the rear doors are not plugged in. Maybe there's a signal or power/ground loop that routes through the rear doors that is currently disconnected? Anyone have any thoughts? I checked to be sure that the harness from each door was plugged in, and I checked all of the fuses and all that stuff is good.
I tested the signal mirror, mirror movement, window, and door lock on the driver's door, all works, but none of that works on the passenger door, neither from the driver's control nor the passenger control.
I'm wondering if I have an issue since the rear doors are not plugged in. Maybe there's a signal or power/ground loop that routes through the rear doors that is currently disconnected? Anyone have any thoughts? I checked to be sure that the harness from each door was plugged in, and I checked all of the fuses and all that stuff is good.
check to make sure power is getting to the passenger door module...
lack of rear doors shouldnt cause any issue. All of the window up/down, mirror, lock, etc signals to the doors get sent as a data message. There are no discrete "signal wires". The only thing that the passenger door module needs to make all that stuff work is power, ground, and data.
If the passenger side window and stuff worked from the passenger side controls, but not from the driver controls, I would say its a data communication issue. But since nothing at all works, I would say that the passenger door module isnt getting power/ground...
Ben
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check for +12v at the passenger door module (PDM) C1 connector (the big one that is closest to the front of the PDM), the orange and black wires should have +12v. Orange is +12v and black is ground.
and then also check for +12v at the C2 connector (the big lever-lock one). The orange wire going to pin 14 should have +12v.
I assume the courtesy light on the door doesnt work either?
ben
and then also check for +12v at the C2 connector (the big lever-lock one). The orange wire going to pin 14 should have +12v.
I assume the courtesy light on the door doesnt work either?
ben
Hmmm....I don't have a big lever lock connector. Am I missing something?
Here's what I have...one harness wrapped in green coming from the passenger door into the cab:
It splits into two connectors that both plug into the passenger side of the dash, circled in red below. I tested +12v across the larger orange and black wires circled in yellow below.
Here's what I have...one harness wrapped in green coming from the passenger door into the cab:
It splits into two connectors that both plug into the passenger side of the dash, circled in red below. I tested +12v across the larger orange and black wires circled in yellow below.
Im talking about the connector on the PDM itself. Take the door panel off, and check out the connectors going to the bottom of the PDM.
Well thank you, and I'm an idiot. That c2 connector with the lever lock you were talking about was unplugged. Put it back in and all is well 
*facepalm*
*facepalm*
I ended up having to do a 3" body lift to get the fender/door gap to look right. The spacers actually measure 2-7/8". I had measured the LLY radiator support at 2-3/4" taller than the gasser, so I guess that's about right. I was hoping not to have to go that tall but it is what it is. Hopefully the suspension drop will compensate for quite a bit of that.
Too dark to see the body panel gaps, but this is how it's sitting now.
Lowering shocks, bumpstops, and drop shackles are in. I haven't pulled the lift blocks from the rear axle yet, will do that when I put my yet-to-be-procured 9.5 rear end in. I took 18 turns out of the torsion bars, the previous owner had them cranked as high as they would go. There's still a couple turns left that I can take out, but I want to wait until I have the rest of the truck together before I set the final ride height.
Lowering shocks, bumpstops, and drop shackles are in. I haven't pulled the lift blocks from the rear axle yet, will do that when I put my yet-to-be-procured 9.5 rear end in. I took 18 turns out of the torsion bars, the previous owner had them cranked as high as they would go. There's still a couple turns left that I can take out, but I want to wait until I have the rest of the truck together before I set the final ride height.
I would think there has to be a way to lower the core support somehow. But goin by what he has done already, that might not be the case. Trucks turning oit good.
I cut down the body lift spacers a bit. Final body lift height is 2 5/8". Still need to pull the lift blocks from the rear end, but here we are after today
Oh, and here is the REAL reason the rear end of the donor truck was binding up. This is the left rear wheel. Must have been one hell of a ride!
Oh, and here is the REAL reason the rear end of the donor truck was binding up. This is the left rear wheel. Must have been one hell of a ride!
Theres not. Tried.......failed.
Theres got to be a way, but it would defiantly take alot of fabrication. Personally I would run the Suburban/Tahoe/SSS/06+ Silvy radiator with the electric fans (its alot bigger than the 99-04/5 radiator) then find the right size intercooler core from this place http://www.bellintercoolers.com/_pages/coreAirCore.html It would take a bit of fab work, probably all new cold side piping, but if you had the time and cash, worth it IMO
I talked to Duraburb Eric about running a 34" gasser radiator early in this process, his feedback was that even in a lightweight truck, the cooling capacity would not be sufficient.
1) I have talked to a GM cooling engineer who thought that running the thickest gasser 34" rad would work just fine cooling a Dmax in a lightweight 1/2 ton truck, provided you're at stock hp and not towing. Trouble is, the inlet/outlets of the gasser rad are not ideal @ 1-5/16 and 1-19/16. This would restrict cooling capacity and the plastic tanks dont allow for larger outlets to be installed, either.
This was one of my first ideas until I researched the logistics more. Eric is correct that it probably wouldnt work in one of his builds, b/c his trucks are used for more normal "truck" uses.
Also, there's the problem of what you're going to do with the Dmax transmission lines...the cooler fittings DO NOT interchange. (Ferm was right) You also would have to figure out a new way to mount the radiator, because the I/C (see #2) takes up the normal space in the support.
2) The Dodge 2nd Gen I/C is the same width as the Dmax I/C, mounts in a similar way (lower pins and upper bolts/grommets) and the 34" radiator fits perfectly between the outlets. I figure it can to be mounted on small stands in order for the p/s outlet to not interfere with the lower radiator hose, and outriggers could be riveted to the core support to mate the upper bolts to.
Even though this I/C has much larger outlets (they are 3-3/4" dia), the Dodge boots neck down to 3", and are angled similar to the OEM LB7 boots. Crazy, huh?
But now you know what I've been dealing with.....
I ended up buying a Dmax van radiator, as its the same height as the gasser rad, 34" wide, much thicker and has the proper outlet sizes. It has 4 bolt/grommet mounts, of which I figured I could cut the lower two off and use old-style lower tank mounts (the U-shaped rubber mounts).
Issues include having to fab an extension of the core support for the lower rad mounts, the overflow tank outlet--which is oriented vertically from the pass side tank instead of horizontally, and the fore-mentioned transmission cooler fittings (unless someone knows where I can find M22-1.5 straight thread unions).
Live n learn, but it hasnt been worth it. Sorry to hog your thread, Chris.
This was one of my first ideas until I researched the logistics more. Eric is correct that it probably wouldnt work in one of his builds, b/c his trucks are used for more normal "truck" uses.
Also, there's the problem of what you're going to do with the Dmax transmission lines...the cooler fittings DO NOT interchange. (Ferm was right) You also would have to figure out a new way to mount the radiator, because the I/C (see #2) takes up the normal space in the support.
2) The Dodge 2nd Gen I/C is the same width as the Dmax I/C, mounts in a similar way (lower pins and upper bolts/grommets) and the 34" radiator fits perfectly between the outlets. I figure it can to be mounted on small stands in order for the p/s outlet to not interfere with the lower radiator hose, and outriggers could be riveted to the core support to mate the upper bolts to.
Even though this I/C has much larger outlets (they are 3-3/4" dia), the Dodge boots neck down to 3", and are angled similar to the OEM LB7 boots. Crazy, huh?
But now you know what I've been dealing with.....
I ended up buying a Dmax van radiator, as its the same height as the gasser rad, 34" wide, much thicker and has the proper outlet sizes. It has 4 bolt/grommet mounts, of which I figured I could cut the lower two off and use old-style lower tank mounts (the U-shaped rubber mounts).
Issues include having to fab an extension of the core support for the lower rad mounts, the overflow tank outlet--which is oriented vertically from the pass side tank instead of horizontally, and the fore-mentioned transmission cooler fittings (unless someone knows where I can find M22-1.5 straight thread unions).
Live n learn, but it hasnt been worth it. Sorry to hog your thread, Chris.
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No worries, thanks for spilling the beans! Your last few posts were pretty vague in your thread, and I was wondering what you've been up to ..... :cool2:
Then run an aftermarket radiator and trans cooler and inter cooler, problem solved
For huge money. No thanks. Id rather put that into brakes and suspension.
The only way to make this work is use the Dmax core support/rad/IC and lift the body 2", as everyone who's done one of these in the past has found.
Chris, its on indefinite hold for now. I got frustrated when nothing I came up with worked. I have to get my mind reset and motivated again.
Your truck turned out great! Congrats! :thumb: