Bleeder screw, turbo coolant line, thermostat housing, rear crossover tube....
I'd look at whatever is on top of the engine valley that you would have touched or worked on first
Put a clear hone going into the CP3. If the fuel is clear then do a return rate test on the pump and injectors. If bubbles then find and fix the source and check again
Oh, I know all about the capillary action and creating a good bond. I've been soldering and sweating pipes for about 30 years. Galvanizing just doesn't wick up the solder like copper does. Doesn't matter how much or little heat you use it is very touchy. Too much heat and the zinc burns. Too...
Anybody solder gutters anymore?
Putting up some new deep galvanized gutters to replace the vinyl ones since I had to remove them for the eaves repair. Decided that I didn't want to pay extra for the connectors and corner pieces. So I tried my hand at soldering them. Not my greatest work as zinc...
Shouldn't have to go that tight. Infact, too tight can cause it to leak by damaging the washer. You only want to lightly crush the washer. Maybe there's a bur or rough spot on the sealing surface
How much torque on the return banjo bolts? I always put a few extra lbs then spec until I could feel the washer properly crush and seal. Maybe put another 1/4 turn on them and see if they seal up
We had a few 6.6L at my previous job. They where pretty new but never had any issues. The transmission was definitely better. Good power but nothing compared to what my Duramax could do but better then the 6.0. Liked that they added the tap shift buttons.
I didn't have enough seat time behind...