Sled pulling questions

Hnkstang50

Member
Mar 28, 2016
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0
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NJ
Do you guys want to spin out at the end to keep on top of the charger or is having traction and the rpms pulling down seem to be getting you just as far or better? I'm just thinking if I should be running higher tire pressure to be more likely to spin out. Once I started loosing rpm i was surprised how quickly I lost power and stopped.
 

04LB7yz

New member
Aug 16, 2013
120
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Way North Minnesota
This may sound stupid, but how are you unlocking the converter at the end of the pull? Or even locking it for that matter? Are you holding the T/H for the 5 seconds or whatever? Or can you only do this with a lockup box?
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
4,815
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TX of course
Years ago guys were just throwing the truck in neutral at the end of the pull. Are guys not doing that anymore?


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2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
6,395
1,756
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Norcal
they are trying to eak out the last few inches they can. neutral will stop you flat while unlocking the converter will allow the engine rpms to come back up into the power band and keep the charger lit. this may gain you a little more distance
 

Balindir

Rod shortning in progress
Jul 30, 2012
368
0
0
South Central, Pa
Years ago guys were just throwing the truck in neutral at the end of the pull. Are guys not doing that anymore?


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This is what i have done in the past... sounds like i'm out dated though... guess i'm not "playing with the big boys" anymore.
 

04LB7yz

New member
Aug 16, 2013
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Way North Minnesota
Tonight will be the first time I pull with this truck and I am running stock trans tuning with built trans, precision converter factory precision stall. 45% over injectors danville stg2 65mm 3794 and a 10mm pump.

Any tips? Should I click the O/D button off on the line so the converter doesn't lock? I would rather not deal with violent shifts.
 

Balindir

Rod shortning in progress
Jul 30, 2012
368
0
0
South Central, Pa
Tonight will be the first time I pull with this truck and I am running stock trans tuning with built trans, precision converter factory precision stall. 45% over injectors danville stg2 65mm 3794 and a 10mm pump.

Any tips? Should I click the O/D button off on the line so the converter doesn't lock? I would rather not deal with violent shifts.

4low and put it in 3rd gear, if you're not running bump stops then make sure to keep your rear tire pressure up... "should" help with hopping.
 

04LB7yz

New member
Aug 16, 2013
120
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Way North Minnesota
4low and put it in 3rd gear, if you're not running bump stops then make sure to keep your rear tire pressure up... "should" help with hopping.

Should I let it shift through 3rd before I feed it a foot full? My plan is to ease it on until the 100ft mark and then start throttling down and feel out the hopping.

No bump stops.
 

ikeG

Oughta Know Better
Apr 19, 2011
2,429
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Western PA
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Your best chance at doing good is going as fast as you can in the first 150 ft. If you are not able to go 100% right away, fix the chassis or tires until you can.

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IOWA LLY

Yes, its really me
Feb 23, 2007
2,275
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Your best chance at doing good is going as fast as you can in the first 150 ft. If you are not able to go 100% right away, fix the chassis or tires until you can.

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Exactly. Ease the RPMs up as much as you can while holding the brakes before you cut it loose. Then floor that bitch until you stop moving.

If your scared don't hook to a sled in the first place.


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Leadfoot

Needs Bigger Tires!
Dec 27, 2006
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Western MA
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What do you think they do that is beneficial? When your bump stops are against the rear they arent helping at all.

That's exactly when you need them most. While they can help with squatting if clamped tight enough (not allowing the leaves to slide across each other), they are needed more for spring wrap (some tracks/sled make the condition worse). With no (or very short) stops, the spring is under tension from being compressed and helps resists (not stop) bending into an "S" (ie. spring wrap). When the weight of the truck is supported by the stops (to keep the ass-end from dragging), the spring is not compressed and is more easily effected by spring wrap. Yes traction bars are a much better solution but spring clamps help significantly when bars aren't allowed (some stock classes don't allow traction bars) or when on a tight budget.