MF'ing LB7 downpipe bolts

[RENODMAX]

Ive been trying to crack my downpipe bolts for a few days now, soaking them with PB blaster and trying to crack while motor is hot, none of which have worked. Ive done a few other swaps and they were a PITA but never got stuck like I am with my own truck. I have a cal emissions with an EGR so going in through the fenderwell doesnt work. I was thinking of trying to split the turbo and pull it out in halves but didnt know if this was possible. What do you guys think

 

[malibu795]

drop the tranny crossmember and ~40" worht of extention and you will have dam near a striaght shot at the lower 3 bolts


dont knwo how far the t-case will let you drop the tail shaft down... that was the only way i could get mine off

 

[RENODMAX]

yeah but what about the top 3

 

[SmokeShow]

pardon my ignorance but I assume the egr stuff can't in any way (destroy it if you have to) be removed so that more access can be gained to get a better angle at getting to them?? i say destroy it but obviously you can't do that if it has to go back on for some reason. If it doesn't have to go back on though, torch or sawzall that biatch off there IF it'll get you the access you need.

How about raising the cab a little, would that help?


C-ya

 

[malibu795]

yeah but what about the top 3

wrench and a crow bar/2x6 to push down on the wrnech

 

[RENODMAX]

tried a huge pry bar to push down. no worky still. just got a mapp gas torch with a 4ft hose. might just have to heat the fvcker

 

[juddski88]

you are doing exactly what i went through...i had EGR on mine as well.....i played with the transmission every bolt to get the right angle....what worked was two ratchets: a 3/8 drive about 12 inches long that had a flex head and i made a 24" cheater pipe to fit that and the 1/2 drive flex head ratchet that was 16" long or so...i would hold the head on the bolt and Aaron (owner of truck) would crank on it....we would go from the top of the motor and through each side fender well and i used the impact and extension method for one or 2 from behind the tranny. we used a little MAP gas torch on a few but we almost burned our hands off a few times...all in all it took about 3-4 days of pure frustration to get all of them

 

[Fingers]

Try this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93645

It will fit into the small space behind the motor. I use a ratcheting box end on the input side, standard 1/2 drive socket on the other. 30:1 multiplier will break almost anything loose.

 

[malibu795]

tried a huge pry bar to push down. no worky still. just got a mapp gas torch with a 4ft hose. might just have to heat the fvcker

one i had to take a pee grinder and grind the nut and stud off


dam fingers thats looks pretty nefty

 

[Gasuout]

Feel for ya , those are a bitch to get off .

Even with access on kodiak . Those bolts are so tight I usually about chop my fingers off on the floor of the truck when they break loose .

So whats the status ? Get them loose yet ?

 

[Bluemax]

I was told you can take the turbo apart in sections if you have to. I've never done it, but a friend told me he always does that.


I guess that was not the EGR equipped one though. I'm not sure what difference that makes.

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Nice Fingers! If a torque multiplier will fit in there thata be the hot ticket!

Hmmm, I have the whole front end off of mine right now, hood fenders, inner fenders battery tray, etc. Wonder if i outta take the opportunity to break em all loose
and anti-seize them while i can? the lower driver side ones already are when i put the BD manifold on. I tried to remove the drivers up-pipe to weld a bung on for drive pressure tap and that had me curse every word in the book!
Why the hell didn't GM anti-sieze these damn things in the 1st place

 

[EDP]

the two ways we do it.

1. Unbolt cab and a couple floor jacks or two post hoist. You should be able to gain at least 4"s'. We almost always use heat (torch) to break them loose.

2nd way drop the trans and get right in there. On a good day trans can be dropped out in about an hour and a half. With way less damage to your knuckles

 

[vortecfcar]

I tried the two halves method unsuccessfully once. I'd try the Fingers method next time.

They are torture, I have several broken tools to show for it. Hang in!


:hug:

 

[RENODMAX]

I have done quite a few swaps and taken transmissions out and it sucks. I got them loose tonight. Took off one of my traction bars

 

[ruffmanatv]

Good to hear that you got them loose Jordan.

 

[Jared Duramax]

i talked to you a week ago about these mine were tight but not that tight.

Glad to see that you got them off.

 

[The Neens]

Try this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93645

It will fit into the small space behind the motor. I use a ratcheting box end on the input side, standard 1/2 drive socket on the other. 30:1 multiplier will break almost anything loose.

Hey Little Nicky, please buy one of these...

Thanks Jon...

 

[LarryJewell]

Ive been trying to crack my downpipe bolts for a few days now, soaking them with PB blaster and trying to crack while motor is hot, none of which have worked. Ive done a few other swaps and they were a PITA but never got stuck like I am with my own truck. I have a cal emissions with an EGR so going in through the fenderwell doesnt work. I was thinking of trying to split the turbo and pull it out in halves but didnt know if this was possible. What do you guys think

There just as tough the 2nd time too

 

[RENODMAX]

they got plenty of anti sieze. I bent the firewall before these came loose. Do I just need 12mm sockets and wrenches to try the multiplier?