Fully adjustable, steel clutch pedal assembly!!

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Mikesmithdmax

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Jul 11, 2014
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Would anyone be interested in one of these guys? The pedal ratio is adjustable from 5:1 to 7:1, (stock is 6:1) adjustable push rod to the master cylinder to adjust the pedal height/travel of pedal! And adjustable travel limiters to save your hydraulics.
it's a must have if your running a stiff pressure plate. Pedal feel is much better, @7:1 it's as easier to push than a 100% stock truck! But most important-no more side to side moving, or twisting of the plastic pos, since it's adjustable you can get up to 9 inches of pedal travel! It will also greatly reduce the truck from "grabbing" or "jumping" while city driving or pulling a trailer!! Even at the stock ratio (6:1) the pedal has much more "feel" than stock, and is easier to apply the clutch because the pedal piviot bushing is solid, larger diameter, and longer in length, greatly reducing friction and giving the long offset pedal arm far more support.
These are very "beefy" units, some say it's overkill the way everything is welded and gusseted on the assembly, YOU WILL NOT BREAK THESE clutch assembly's!!!

Since this is new product I'm working on I'm still working some bugs out, with the adjustable push rod you cannot use the stock safety switch. You will have to disable the clutch saftey switch, or wire in a different switch, (still working on a cheap simple fix for this) any ideas??

My pedal also requires you to cut the retaining ring/fastner/nut (not sure correct term) from your original plastic pedal bucket. This allows you to utilize all factory hydraulics, also keeps you from having to bleed the system by leaving the ms line on.

I'll get some photos posted up soon, I have a few of these being tested right now, anyone interested in this setup? As far as I know no one makes a steel pedal made to bolt in without modification for the 99-07 trucks. Your opinion is appreciated guys! Let me know what y'all think!!!

-Mike Smith @sptuning
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
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Wyoming
Sounds like a good idea...I think a lot of ZF6 guys will love this. Cant wait to see pics.

BUT...IMO, from a business/manufacturer perspective, I wouldnt even consider manufacturing/selling something like this without the mounting for a clutch pedal safety switch. I also manufacture/build/sell parts for these trucks, and my first consideration is safety, etc... You're putting all of this R&D and setup into a great product, and leaving out the CPP switch????

I know everyone will scoff at "I dont need no stinking safety switch, Im not stupid!!"...but what they're forgetting is that cruise control WILL NOT WORK without a clutch pedal safety switch wired up, and pretty much all track tech inspections require you to demonstrate proper CPP switch operation.

And no, you cant easily "fool" the switch to stop the ECM from disabling cruise due to the lack of CPP switch. Because the switch has TWO circuits for redundancy...one normally open, the other normally closed. If the ECM sees that you are shifting (or pulling away from a stop, etc) without the appropriate transitioning of both clutch pedal switch circuits, it will interpret that has a malfunctioning clutch pedal switch and disable cruise, set a check engine light, etc...

Just my opinion/constructive criticism. ;)

Ben
 
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Mikesmithdmax

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Jul 11, 2014
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duratothemax said:
Sounds like a good idea...I think a lot of ZF6 guys will love this. Cant wait to see pics.

BUT...IMO, from a business/manufacturer perspective, I wouldnt even consider manufacturing/selling something like this without the mounting for a clutch pedal safety switch. I also manufacture/build/sell parts for these trucks, and my first consideration is safety, etc... You're putting all of this R&D and setup into a great product, and leaving out the CPP switch????

I know everyone will scoff at "I dont need no stinking safety switch, Im not stupid!!"...but what they're forgetting is that cruise control WILL NOT WORK without a clutch pedal safety switch wired up, and pretty much all track tech inspections require you to demonstrate proper CPP switch operation.

And no, you cant easily "fool" the switch to stop the ECM from disabling cruise due to the lack of CPP switch. Because the switch has TWO circuits for redundancy...one normally open, the other normally closed. If the ECM sees that you are shifting (or pulling away from a stop, etc) without the appropriate transitioning of both clutch pedal switch circuits, it will interpret that has a malfunctioning clutch pedal switch and disable cruise, set a check engine light, etc...

Just my opinion/constructive criticism. ;)

Ben
Click to expand...

Your 100% correct on the switch! I hadn't planned on pricing them until I have everything figured out. U never know if a child were to play with the ignition or something.
Thanks for your input, I'm new to the parts side of the industry, so I've got a lot to learn! I'm just trying to come up with a good part people will appreciate, and trying to make a name for myself.
 
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Mikesmithdmax

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Jul 11, 2014
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Here's the prototype, I got to put a few more miles on it today, did some fine tuning on the pedal ratio, and the pushrod length, the truck shifts a lot smoother, pedal feels much sturdier, and there is no need to stomp on the pedal to get it into gear while parked.it's smooth as silk! I couldn't be happier with it!

EEEBAE15-1A82-4A38-9B12-66F1600436F2_zps8p4kywiy.jpg


I've already had 5 guys wanting me to build them one, and I plan to do so after I get all the bugs worked out. I'm sure y'all understand the finished product will look 100% professional, this is only the prototype,

The final product will be 100% built from scratch, I wouldn't feel right selling something that looks this hacked up lol, this was the easiest way for me to figure out what ratio works best, to get the right pedal length, pedal feel, and to make sure the piviot bushing size was capable of handling the large offset these trucks require.

All said and done ill have a product that'll be 100% adjustable,
It'll utilize all the factory hydraulics, be strong enough for the heaviest pressure plates, retain a factory appearance, and have a safety switch that will operate just as the factory unit!

I'll update as get it all figured out guys, so stay posted!
 
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Mikesmithdmax

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Jul 11, 2014
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It's hard to get a photo of the setup in the truck, I'm going to pull it out this weekend to make a welding fixture, I'll post more pics as I make progress, stay posted!

 
dewey_20

dewey_20

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Jan 30, 2009
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I am very interested. I've broken 2 on my truck and need to upgrade to this. 606-776-7948 when you are ready to start making them.
 
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Mikesmithdmax

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Jul 11, 2014
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Sorry I haven't updated in awhile, I've got a couple
Questions for u fellas, would y'all rather utilize the stock master cylinder or use a bolt in style cylinder? The way I see it using the stock style cylinder there will still be a risk for failure the way it twists in. I've sorced a cylinder from a late model dodge that works great, just requires modifying the line. I guess I could offer the setup both ways, just wanting to hear some input ! Thanks in advance
 
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