Easier trans removal

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
1,063
0
0
San Diego
I have noticed several guys rebuilding trannys. This may already be known and a no brainer but here it goes.

It appears to me that removing the trans is purdy easy until you get to the top 3 bellhousing bolts and the torque converter bolts.

I used a 36" long 1/2" drive and came over the top of the bellhousing with a swivel, go way back... behind the trans crossmember. Park the light on top of the frame adjacent to the starter. Use one eye to fixate on the bolt.

To get at the converter bolts, the frame you set the light on is in the way to get a good muscle on it, and you can't see anything. Remove the fan using a punch to break it loose and the boost tube. Use a "glancing blow" in the direction required to loosen the fan, it should then simply spin off. Remove the starter (duh) from the side of the motor, shoot the same 36" long drive along the passenger side of the oil pan, right past wires leading to the starter, past the motor mount and into the peep hole. Use a 1/2" impact and shazam, ALOT less busted knuckles, crap in your hair, dirt in your eyes etc. If your fingers are short and fat, like mine, and you can't get to the converter bolts after breaking them loose, use an extendable magnet and pull them through the peephole.

Anybody want pict's for a better visual or is this old news?
 

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
1,063
0
0
San Diego
Yes, I want pics of your NONE BLOODY KNUCKLES. :p Thanks James for the info.

I bled for sure... it took me 40 minutes to get the starter out and a lump on my head from the exhaust that was in the way. I'll send pictures for sure, from the work computer. I can reduce them on my laptop, and add arrows otherwise they are 3-4 meg files.
 

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
1,063
0
0
San Diego
Here's the picture, should be worth a million...words.

This is the easiest way i/we found to remove those converter bolts. Again, remove the fan, perhaps even the plastic shield thingy on the bottom, under the radiator hoses in the picture i have attached.

The light location is important, otherwise you are looking "into a dark cave".

Good luck guys.
 
Last edited:

JOHNBOY

< Rocking the Big Single!
Aug 30, 2006
2,159
0
0
Saegertown, Pa
I have been using a 3' long 1/2" extension. Works great. Drop the tcase. The pull the trans crossmember. Lower the back end of the trans down till the motor oil pan is almost in the crossmember. You can reach every bolt from behind the trans now with the 3' extension. A 15mm 1/2" drive socket, 1/2" 3' long extension, and a impact is all you need.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,598
631
113
Texas!!!
I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to pull the motor out of my truck. Not that it was easy, just easier than I anticipated.
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
7,848
281
83
42
in the buckeye state
i got a 20" 1/2 extention and 3 12" adn a coupel 10s

TC bole i use a swivel and a 12"

i shave a rag on the bottem side of the bolt... had a bolt fall in there and lock everything up:angry5:

when putting it back to gether,,, i usually put some copper form a gasket in the socket.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,317
1,602
113
Mid Michigan
I have been using a 3' long 1/2" extension. Works great. Drop the tcase. The pull the trans crossmember. Lower the back end of the trans down till the motor oil pan is almost in the crossmember. You can reach every bolt from behind the trans now with the 3' extension. A 15mm 1/2" drive socket, 1/2" 3' long extension, and a impact is all you need.

Exactly.

Starter bolts are a PITA, but easier if you use a swivel socket with ~18" extension. Top bolt is straightforward, bottom is not...run thru the area between the control arms and the shock. Its a small opening, but possible.