Cracked flywheel housing surprise

DmaxRvRrat

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Mar 19, 2014
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Removed the trans last night to install my new transmission and found the flywheel housing (If that's what its called) is broken in 2 spots, both around bolt holes. One by the starter, and one on the bottom pass side corner. :confused:

I bet its been broken for awhile, previous owner must have had the trans replaced or removed (miss matched torque convertor bolts), and the piece by the starter is completely missing.

How much of a pain to remove the flywheel housing? Dumb to just install trans like it is?
 
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meshanic

All In Trucks
Dec 9, 2010
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Do you mean the bell housing of the transmission or the rear cover of the motor? It sounds like you mean the rear cover of the motor. If that's the case it can be done with the motor in the truck. The flywheel bolts are very tight. Find a good way to keep the motor from spinning. If you had a 3/4 inch drive impact or a good 1/2 inch Snap-on impact would be ideal. It's 14mm hex. I sawed off a 14mm allen tool & use a short 14mm 6 point socket You have to pull both lower & upper oil pans & the oil cooler. The turbo oil drain comes into the top of the back cover. The only part that kinda sucks is the oil cooler. It's tricky getting it all back together without any leaks. Also make sure you have a long 5mm allen head socket to get the back upper oil pan bolts out.
 

DmaxRvRrat

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Mar 19, 2014
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Yup, talking about the rear cover of the motor. It doesn't leak (yet), the bad part of me just wants to leave it alone, i mean its made it this long right!:roflmao:
Where do you find one of these?
 

Chevy1925

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you will need a new rear main seal as well, just FYI. and coolant will be all over the place unless you drain the block.
 

DmaxRvRrat

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Here's a pic of the two pieces that were broken. Would you dare run it like that? Who knows how long it's been that way.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1400112221.361393.jpg


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BobbyBDirtyMax

US Marine Corps Retired
Feb 15, 2013
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I've seen a couple rear covers with cracks before and who knows how long they'd been there but I'd rather be safe than sorry and go ahead and replace it and the rear main seal just to have that piece of mind
 

DmaxRvRrat

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Mar 19, 2014
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I've seen a couple rear covers with cracks before and who knows how long they'd been there but I'd rather be safe than sorry and go ahead and replace it and the rear main seal just to have that piece of mind


Yeah I hear ya, am I going to have to be worried about a new one cracking too? Any idea what would have caused it to crack there?


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Chevy1925

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No I would not run a cracked one, it can damage that new trans very quickly if any alignment is off
 

BobbyBDirtyMax

US Marine Corps Retired
Feb 15, 2013
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Like you said the previous owner obviously had something done at some point, there's no telling for sure what may have happened to cause the rear cover to crack but my guess would be something along the lines of a major trans issue but who knows. Misalignment could have been it not being installed correctly or a number of things like the mis matched TC bolts, I'd never run it cracked. It could've been that way for a long time but a misalignment with the new trans is bad news all the way around
 

meshanic

All In Trucks
Dec 9, 2010
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I've seen a back cover like that before but it was caused by the drive line flying off the truck at 80 mph. It destroyed the back cover, bell housing & tail housing on the tranny, the rear axle yolk and bent the transfer case shaft. I wouldn't take any chances. I can send you a back cover if you pay the freight. I've got more than I'll probably ever use. Send me a pm if you're interested.
 

DmaxRvRrat

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Mar 19, 2014
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I definitely don't want to take a chance on damaging the new trans. Thanks for the advice guys!

Besides the oil pan gaskets and new rear main, what all will i need to swap this out?
 
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DmaxRvRrat

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Mar 19, 2014
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I've seen a back cover like that before but it was caused by the drive line flying off the truck at 80 mph. It destroyed the back cover, bell housing & tail housing on the tranny, the rear axle yolk and bent the transfer case shaft. I wouldn't take any chances. I can send you a back cover if you pay the freight. I've got more than I'll probably ever use. Send me a pm if you're interested.

I appreciate the offer, you have a pm!
 

Chevy1925

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I definitely don't want to take a chance on damaging the new trans. Thanks for the advice guys!

Besides the oil pan gaskets and new rear main, what all will i need to swap this out?

upper oil pan doesnt use a gasket, its silicone. The GM gray stuff is good chet, id buy that if you can. You will also need coolant crossover o-rings that go on the back of the mid plate, new oil cooler gaskets and possibly o-rings should one tear or you loose one (make sure you have a big thick rectangle one in the kit as well, you will need it), rear main which you know, turbo drain gasket and patience lol.

Here is a quick run down so you know what your getting into.

First, drop the oil and lower oil pan. you will need to access 4 bolts that run up the inner edge of the upper oil pan that bolt into the mid plate. remove those 4 bolts. Next, remove the oil cooler. you can remove the midplate without removing the elbow from the midplate side for now. the elbow will need to removed and placed on your new midplate though so you will want to put the new big thick rectangle gaskets on that elbow as well as a new steel on the cooler side. they are a bitch to change if they leak with the midplate installed so id change them. MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE 90* ELBOW BACK ON THE MIDPLATE BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE MIDPLATE. if you dont, its gunna be a pain to reinstall the oil cooler and elbow. Id then try to use a slide hammer if you have one to pull out the old rear main seal. if you dont, when you try to pry the midplate from the block after removing all the plates, you will damage two dowel pins that center the midplate to the upper oil pan (ask me how i know lol). Then undo the turbo drain from the top of the mid plate. you might have to remove the driverside uppipe to do this. when you get the rear main out, start prying the plate away from the block starting at the top and work your way down slowly. when you get about half way down, try prying the plate UP from the upper oil pan so you can pop it up and away from the dowel pins. then you can remove the whole plate.

make sure you clean the block and oil pan of old sealer and make sure your new mid plate is clean. you will also see the two o-rings for the coolant bypass i was talking about. its about half way up on each side of the midplate. they tie into the back of the block. Put new ones there in the mid plate. a dab of silicone will help them stay in place. then reinstall in the reverse order.

Flywheel is multiple 14mm allen heads and they are torqued down pretty good so be prepared there.
 
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DmaxRvRrat

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Awesome run-down Chevy 1925! I was told i was going to have to pull the turbo and possibly the front differential by a local shop.

Are the flywheel bolts re-usable?
 

Mike L.

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Awesome run-down Chevy 1925! I was told i was going to have to pull the turbo and possibly the front differential by a local shop.

Are the flywheel bolts re-usable?

I wouldn't recommend it. They are tq to yield. I would also install a new flex plate since it will be off. I don't like those rust spots on your old one.
 

Chevy1925

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Awesome run-down Chevy 1925! I was told i was going to have to pull the turbo and possibly the front differential by a local shop.

No prob. you shouldnt have to drop the diff. im trying to go over in my head why you would need to but im thinking they are doing that cause of the dowel pins in the pan. if you can get the rear main out, you should be good or atleast enough to wiggle it out. I did add a bit about the turbo drain. i forgot that part. re-read the run down again. if i think of anything else, ill add it in but i think thats it
 

DmaxRvRrat

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I wouldn't recommend it. They are tq to yield. I would also install a new flex plate since it will be off. I don't like those rust spots on your old one.

Could that surface rust cause a problem Mike? I'm having trouble finding a new stock flex plate. Or should i be looking at upgrading.
 

Mike L.

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Could that surface rust cause a problem Mike? I'm having trouble finding a new stock flex plate. Or should i be looking at upgrading.

Rust causes weakness and then it cracks. You can order a new one from the dealer for a little over 100.00.