Ceramic vs semi metallic pads

[hondarider552]

Turn the rear rotor's Mike if your putting in new pads.

I never did brakes on my old single cab LB7, but I had heat spots all over the rear rotors. The fronts were warped, if I hit the brakes hard at 135 the truck would shake for a split second then be smooth, coming to a stop was also shaky. Guess 300 passes in a year and a half will do that

 

[Chevy1925]

Just dont use the ceramic ThermoQuiets....holy shit do they squeal. Ive got a set of NAPA adaptive one pads for replacements for the Aurora that I have to find the time to install.

Mike, I found that the NAPA severe-duty (police-quality) pads work very well in our application. Those are what I have had on the truck for 6 years now. No noise, low dust, no issues stopping the truck at the track or under normal "truck" use.

If i told you i replaced those every 8-10k on crown vics with "severe drivers" behind the wheel, would you believe me? generally they lasted about 20-30k under most officers.

 

[TheBac]

If i told you i replaced those every 8-10k on crown vics with "severe drivers" behind the wheel, would you believe me? generally they lasted about 20-30k under most officers.

It would not surprise me in the least. Some of those cops make NASCAR drivers look like go-carters. But does that have anything to do with their ability to stop the truck from that mph at the track, which is what Mike is looking for?

 

[Chevy1925]

It would not surprise me in the least. Some of those cops make NASCAR drivers look like go-carters. But does that have anything to do with their ability to stop the truck from that mph at the track, which is what Mike is looking for?

I personally felt no difference between a set of high grade Napa brakes and cheap ones other than more dust on the high grade ones. We did a test on 8 different officers, 4 got high grade, 4 got cheapys. Each group had the "easy on the car" and "nascar" drivers in them. It was kinda the placebo affect. 2 of the guys with cheapys said it stopped better and 1 with the expensive said it stopped worse (he actually is a close friend of mine and drives the damn wheels off his cars). All got the same high grade rotors and we're broke in by me prior to giving them the car back. My state boss gave Napa the info and they had nothing to come back with other than a much lower price on the high grade pads lol. It's apples to oranges comparing it to these trucks but it's interesting info none the less.

I personally will stick with factory pads and rotors. I'm still on my originals from 01.5 and 200k on the clock. No cracking, no warping, no nasty heat spots. Full syn Brake fluid, full syn power steering fluid, new hydro boost and new pump make a world of difference in stopping power

 

[TheBac]

Fair enough. I still wouldnt run cheap pads though. Based on what you found, when I do my brakes here in a few weeks it'll be interesting to see how much life is left in my pads, considering how many years they've been on the truck.

But I have to ask....why didnt you post that "test" info last week when he was asking about new pads and rotors? That would've been very relevant to the discussion.

 

[OregonDMAX]

Fair enough. I still wouldnt run cheap pads though. Based on what you found, when I do my brakes here in a few weeks it'll be interesting to see how much life is left in my pads, considering how many years they've been on the truck.

Nothing will last as long as factory pads that's for sure.

 

[Chevy1925]

Fair enough. I still wouldnt run cheap pads though. Based on what you found, when I do my brakes here in a few weeks it'll be interesting to see how much life is left in my pads, considering how many years they've been on the truck.

But I have to ask....why didnt you post that "test" info last week when he was asking about new pads and rotors? That would've been very relevant to the discussion.

because his issue isnt brake pads in that other thread of his and the points about the hydroboost/flushing fluids were already mentioned. plus the fact, i wouldnt take too much of my info to heart on these trucks. on a car, it would be more relevant. i was only giving the info on that bit of "off topic" i took the thread regarding "police grade brakes". wasnt intended to be used as info toward these big rigs

 

[Ne-max]

OEM pads are cheap.

 

[mike diesel]

I love these new brakes. Takes very little pedal effort before ABS kicks in and tires are chirping as I'm grinding to a hault. Also able to hold the truck back at 20psi now before it wants to start walking, big improvement over what it used to be. The pedal stays consistant and doesn't get mushy or push to the floor.

Very happy with the setup.

 

[minerigger]

I love these new brakes. Takes very little pedal effort before ABS kicks in and tires are chirping as I'm grinding to a hault. Also able to hold the truck back at 20psi now before it wants to start walking, big improvement over what it used to be. The pedal stays consistant and doesn't get mushy or push to the floor.

Very happy with the setup.

So you went new rotors from Napa for the front and new pads all around mixed with Russell stainless lines and dot 4 brake fluid and a power steering flush

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[mike diesel]

So you went new rotors from Napa for the front and new pads all around mixed with Russell stainless lines and dot 4 brake fluid and a power steering flush

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Exactly. I went with the Napa sever duty premium metallic pads all around.

 

[ALLY Fox]

I still have the original factory pads on my truck. About 1/3 of my 90K miles has been towing a 12K 5th wheel through mostly mountain pass driving. They look like they will go another 200K and stop well without any issues. Only thing I do is flush the brake fluid every couple of years. I have a suspicion that new OEM pads from the dealer wouldn't be the same as what they installed in the factory. My neighbor had his '05 pads replaced at Les Schwab and they lasted less than 15K. He's happy though, they replace them under warranty every time they wear out...

 

[OregonDMAX]

I still have the original factory pads on my truck. About 1/3 of my 90K miles has been towing a 12K 5th wheel through mostly mountain pass driving. They look like they will go another 200K and stop well without any issues. Only thing I do is flush the brake fluid every couple of years. I have a suspicion that new OEM pads from the dealer wouldn't be the same as what they installed in the factory. My neighbor had his '05 pads replaced at Les Schwab and they lasted less than 15K. He's happy though, they replace them under warranty every time they wear out...

Exactly. Les Schwab is chinese junk though so no fair comparison :roflmao:

 

[minerigger]

Exactly. I went with the Napa sever duty premium metallic pads all around.

Didn't you do some form of mod to your power steering pump and or hydra booster in the last year

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[mike diesel]

Didn't you do some form of mod to your power steering pump and or hydra booster in the last year

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It's just a standard napa power steering pump. About 3 years ago I followed one of those "DIY" power steering pump pressure mods. Yea the pump exploded within seconds. So i went and got a new napa pump and it has worked great.

 

[minerigger]

Oh ok that's what it was. I couldn't remember and wasn't sure what to search for to find out. This is good info though for total break system

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[1ATony]

We carry brake pad and rotor kits. If anyone needs help with their application PM me. Shipping is free in the lower 48

Tony

 

[mike diesel]

Little update...

This afternoon I switched back to ceramic pads on all 4. Those semi metallics worked good but they dusted an insane amount. Drove me crazy. About ruined the finish on one of my wheels from it. Also if you hit the brakes hard from 100+mph, it'd throw sparks galore from the rotors/pads.

Even with all the dynoing I've done and using my brakes to load the chargers, the pads still look great.

The major dusting and sparking was more than enough to turn me away from them.

I went with regular napa ceramics in the rear and premium ceramics up front. The brakes work fine, but I can tell the ceramics don't have the grab the semi metallics had.

 

[unionmax481]

Has anybody used the power stop setup yet heavy truck/tow pads and drilled and slotted rotors

 

[N2BRK]

since we're all sharing braking info, I'll throw in a long term update -- I went with those Stop Tech Cryo treated front rotors and Hawk superduty pads. Warp city Huge waste of money. I'm still driving them after a couple years, only because I'm too pissed and cheap to replace them. When they were newer you could get one decent stop out of them, but then they would overhead and fade and in short time they just warped to shit and stop like crap.

Maybe this spring I'll replace them. I thought about cutting the rotors and keeping them on, since I have tons of pad left, but I haven't bothered.