LBZ: Advice with super heavy tongue weight

[Balu's]

Hello,

I am a new owner of an 06 3500 DRW with 190k on the clock. I did a lot of research before purchasing this truck and really hope I made a good decision. It's a one owner truck bought out of Houston TX. Seems to very clean and rust free. Only had it for a month now and all that she needed was new power steering lines and pump.

I use it to pull my food truck I just opened in Virginia Beach/Hampton Roads area. I really hope I'm not making this post to find soon find out everyone says I have a problem. My concern is I have a ton or a little over 2 tons of tongue weight. 2,400lbs to be exact. The trailer weighs about 10,300lbs total. 20'x8.5' dual axel trailer. The tongue weight is absurd I know, but there's nothing I can do about it because I can't adjust the equipment inside. The layout of the kitchen inside already has the heaviest equipment behind the wheels or above them and I need everything that's in there.

What I would like to know is if there are any upgrades or investments I can make for my truck to tow as efficiently and effectively as possible. I bought an air ride hitch rated for 30k lbs and 3k lbs of TW to help lessen the blows of hitting bumbs. In retro spec I would have had my trailer made as a goose neck. Never expected this much tongue weight, but that's what I got when I took it to a tow station. I put the tongue on a separate scale and disconnected and drove off just so you know how I measured my TW. I really appreciate everyone's experience and time spent helping me! I'm on a budget of course, but as time goes I could allocate funds to make improvements. Please let me know what concerns I should have and what would be your first courses of action along with the next ones.

I'm thinking air bags and a bigger hitch because the current receiver is only 2". Will be making those changes soon. Also already has a break controller which is probably a no brainer but just being thorough.

Thank you,
Logan

 

[036.6turbo]

This is what I use for air bags;
https://www.airliftcompany.com/products/air-springs/loadlifter-5000/

Not all brake controllers are made the same. The Tekonsha P3 has inertia braking and boost. The display also turns red if the trailer comes unplugged. Towing that heavy, you want to look down and always see the green display;
http://www.tekonsha.com/products/br...trollers/p3-/TzaIxkVx1cI5XOy!osRB55TR19SXShj4

 

[clrussell]

Good hitch, look at big chevy hitch.. Air bags properly inflated and good trailer brakes. Should he good to go

 

[Hoser]

I would highly recommend a Rigid 2 1/2" hitch with a weight distribution kit. That combo will give you a 2,700 pound maximum tongue weight rating. The weight distribution is going to be critical since you are currently taking so much weight off the front end of the truck that braking and handling will be adversely affected.

 

[JoshH]

I would definitely look into a quality weight distributing hitch and receiver at that weight. A stock receiver hitch will not handle tongue weight that high.

 

[Chevy1925]

2400lbs is not 2 tons.

the receiver you buy needs to either include mounting to the bumper as the stock ones does or you need to brace up the frame where the hitch mounts. the hitch attaching solely to the frame was never GMs intention and changing receivers that do not attach to the bumper or mount deeper into the frame will add leverage to the stock attachment points and rip the frame over time. seen two trucks do this with bigger curtis receivers now. If you box in the rest of the frame and weld the hitch to the frame with some fish plate gussets, it wont be an issue anymore if you upgrade receivers.

 

[Balu's]

Hahaha I must have been loosing it. You are correct 2,400 is not 2 tons. It was late when I made the post, thank you. Also thanks to everyone who has responded. I have ordered a curt hitch, and will have to look into what you mentioned Chevy 1925.

Here's what's on the way
http://https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C15703.html

C15703 Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class V CD - 2-1/2"
1 $255.95

Says it'll pull 18k lbs and 1,800lbs TW and 2,700 max with a weight distribution hitch. However I opted to not go with a WDH. Their a pain in the butt to hook and unhook which I do about 4 to 6 times a day, and the air safe hitch I bought lessens the blow of bumbs better meaning less wear on the engine, trans, and suspension. Hopefully my air safe hitch and this receiver will do the job. I've been pulling for about 2 weeks with the stock receiver and WDH I previously had which is rated for 1,500 TW, honestly with out the distribution part (just the ball) and it's been fine. The WDH recoever is so low to the ground with out air bags on the ride I hit the ground on all dips in the road. I can't wait to get this thing off.

Here's the air safe hitch I bought which I really like. Used it on a RAM 3500 I borrowed for a few days and was pretty smooth to pull with even with all my TW.

Class 8 recoever hitch from Airsafehitch.com
http://http://airsafehitch.com/category/air-hitches/receivers/class-viii/
Expensive but cool, and hopefully beneficial in that there's less strain on the trans, engine, and suspension.

Do you all think new front and rear shocks, Cognito UCAs, and Timken wheel bearing would be a plus. I lifted the front of my truck when replacing the power steering lines and the front wheels had a little play moving in and out when pushing on the top and bottom of the tires. I hear that's the bearings going out.... Haven't noticed anything crazy when towing except when I hit a good bum and it sounds like I bottom out, but I figure that probably because of the massive load I'm towing on the tongue. Like to hear what you all think.

Thanks again y'all!

 

[830king]

2400lbs is not 2 tons.

the receiver you buy needs to either include mounting to the bumper as the stock ones does or you need to brace up the frame where the hitch mounts. the hitch attaching solely to the frame was never GMs intention and changing receivers that do not attach to the bumper or mount deeper into the frame will add leverage to the stock attachment points and rip the frame over time. seen two trucks do this with bigger curtis receivers now. If you box in the rest of the frame and weld the hitch to the frame with some fish plate gussets, it wont be an issue anymore if you upgrade receivers.

My thoughts exactly! Lots of people complain about the wimpy hitch, when you upgrade the hitch then the frame is the weakest spot.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[malibu795]

Love the torklift super hitch
Was used as a sled hitch( they make a bigger magnum hitch )on an older truck I had..

http://www.torklift.com/index.php/products/towing/superhitch-receiver-hitches/superhitch-magnum-30k

Mine ran 500.00 in 09

 

[Blackmax123]

Look into a reese titan hitch, they're very well built. I had one on my lmm about 4 years sled pulling with no issues.

 

[Balu's]

Chevy 1925, or anyone that knows, could you tell me where the frame should be supported and welded? Should my weld shop create gussets or is there a reliable kit for this truck? Also how far along the frame do I box it in? I've also read that boxing it in will not allow the frame to flex like it was designed to and will create other issues, cracking in other places due to the stiffness. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

 

[clrussell]

Chevy 1925, or anyone that knows, could you tell me where the frame should be supported and welded? Should my weld shop create gussets or is there a reliable kit for this truck? Also how far along the frame do I box it in? I've also read that boxing it in will not allow the frame to flex like it was designed to and will create other issues, cracking in other places due to the stiffness. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

I've never seen a frame crack from to much bracing but I guess it could happen.

I'll try to crawl under my truck in a little bit and get a picture of where I coujd plate the frame to if it was me.