this lawrence setup that he and i ran june 14th in lancaster.
one thing i noticed is the truck was almost level to ~1" nose down rake. when setup to pull. about the 100' mark you can see ther front tires moving up and down with the body..
from watching the video. the truck seams to unload when the nose gets 1-2" nose up rake..
from watching kurts pull he has an easiy 9" of nose down rake.
so my idea is getting 9-10" of nose down rake with out jacking the rear end sky high. bad thing about this is the short wb truck the u-jiont quickly get out of their missalingment range.
sugjestion while being able to keep the truck a DD and min work in the pits.
dedicated tires.. same principle in drag raceing..you need slick to go fast with a 2wd so you will need a nice MT tires for the back. boogers in the sand MT/sts tires for clay. might get away with boggers on clay.
droping the front. useing lawrence truck he run 35" all four corners.
on the front
225/55R16 is a 25" tall tire imediatly you got a 5" nose down drop wiht out changing the TBs dropping the tb you can drop another 2-3" with stock keys.
so far he have a tottal of 7-8" of rake. possibly more if you remove the compression bump stops. 16" rim are common on 75% of the compact/mid size cars.. finding a used set are a tire dealer shouldnt be that hard. and they are 50-70 bucks new and will fit on PYO rim.
front stops.. while the front is comprssed puting blocks between the upper arm and the droop stops thus limiting to drop and easier to carry the front end
rear
most stock spring trucks have a max of 11" droop in the rear. and have ~4" of compression to the stops or 15" of travel. raising the rear 2-3" would not be a danger to the u-jionts. clamps on the springs front and back , and stops
30" hitch.
so were are looking at ~10-11" of rake easily without puting either rear end grossly out side its stock range of motion.
any more hitch height need would be made up by the hitch.
weight placement.
lets say the truck weight f/r 3900/2900 split 6800 tottal and running 8,000 limit
you place the 1200 pound behind the rear axle. the is good especially off the line. not only did you add 1200 to the rear axle weight you pull weight off the front axle via mech advangte.. (think levelers.)
IMO the ideal place would have as much centered over the rear axle thus giving/taking little wieght from the front axle. thus would help you form going nose up wheel stand style and loosing all the applied weight from the rear axle at the top end of the track. and maybe little forward of the rear axle depending on how the truck hooks
so what am i missing in this conception?:rofl: thoughts.....
and the video of me pulling with his truck wiht the correctly weighted sled for WS class. http://mcratracing.com/k/adamsp.wmv
one thing i noticed is the truck was almost level to ~1" nose down rake. when setup to pull. about the 100' mark you can see ther front tires moving up and down with the body..
from watching the video. the truck seams to unload when the nose gets 1-2" nose up rake..
from watching kurts pull he has an easiy 9" of nose down rake.
so my idea is getting 9-10" of nose down rake with out jacking the rear end sky high. bad thing about this is the short wb truck the u-jiont quickly get out of their missalingment range.
sugjestion while being able to keep the truck a DD and min work in the pits.
dedicated tires.. same principle in drag raceing..you need slick to go fast with a 2wd so you will need a nice MT tires for the back. boogers in the sand MT/sts tires for clay. might get away with boggers on clay.
droping the front. useing lawrence truck he run 35" all four corners.
on the front
225/55R16 is a 25" tall tire imediatly you got a 5" nose down drop wiht out changing the TBs dropping the tb you can drop another 2-3" with stock keys.
so far he have a tottal of 7-8" of rake. possibly more if you remove the compression bump stops. 16" rim are common on 75% of the compact/mid size cars.. finding a used set are a tire dealer shouldnt be that hard. and they are 50-70 bucks new and will fit on PYO rim.
front stops.. while the front is comprssed puting blocks between the upper arm and the droop stops thus limiting to drop and easier to carry the front end
rear
most stock spring trucks have a max of 11" droop in the rear. and have ~4" of compression to the stops or 15" of travel. raising the rear 2-3" would not be a danger to the u-jionts. clamps on the springs front and back , and stops
30" hitch.
so were are looking at ~10-11" of rake easily without puting either rear end grossly out side its stock range of motion.
any more hitch height need would be made up by the hitch.
weight placement.
lets say the truck weight f/r 3900/2900 split 6800 tottal and running 8,000 limit
you place the 1200 pound behind the rear axle. the is good especially off the line. not only did you add 1200 to the rear axle weight you pull weight off the front axle via mech advangte.. (think levelers.)
IMO the ideal place would have as much centered over the rear axle thus giving/taking little wieght from the front axle. thus would help you form going nose up wheel stand style and loosing all the applied weight from the rear axle at the top end of the track. and maybe little forward of the rear axle depending on how the truck hooks
so what am i missing in this conception?:rofl: thoughts.....
