2.5 Hitch Setup

[duramax05blk]

As the titles states im trying to figure out a hitch setup for a 2.5 truck. Our
association rule is stated.
. HITCH HEIGHT TO BE 20” MAX MUST BE REARWARD MOST POINTOF THE VEHICLE WITH A 3” WIDE BY 3.75” LONG OPENING. MUST
BE REESE TYPE RECEIVER AND HITCH.

From that all i can see is it has to be a reese type receiver and hitch, that seems to leave alot of room for imagination as to how that "reese Receiver is mounted. can any experieced pullers maybe elaborate on some issues you may or may not have run into pushing a similar rule.
Thanks Aaron

 

[clrussell]

Around here as long as it's "Reese style" as in you pull a pin to remove the hook point then it's legal.

20" seems really low!!! I think ours is 26"

If it says rear most point then put it under the truck as far as possible (we use center line of the tailgate as "rear most point")

I've heard different things on running a bar to the gooseneck hitch area so that the hitch pulls from there but I don't understand that really.

I had some really good pictures of a truck on here that the guy was selling the hitch from, but they got lost on the last phone.

 

[Hernpj01]

20 does seem low!! 26 here

 

[duramax05blk]

Around here as long as it's "Reese style" as in you pull a pin to remove the hook point then it's legal.
That is kind of what i was thinking but have never noticed any work stock/2.5 trucks running much more than maybe something like a big chevy hitch tucked beind a roll pan.

I've heard different things on running a bar to the gooseneck hitch area so that the hitch pulls from there but I don't understand that really.
That is kind of what i was thinking similar to a draw bar on a 3.0 truck. what kind of results have you heard?

 

[clrussell]

Around here as long as it's "Reese style" as in you pull a pin to remove the hook point then it's legal.
That is kind of what i was thinking but have never noticed any work stock/2.5 trucks running much more than maybe something like a big chevy hitch tucked beind a roll pan.

I've heard different things on running a bar to the gooseneck hitch area so that the hitch pulls from there but I don't understand that really.
That is kind of what i was thinking similar to a draw bar on a 3.0 truck. what kind of results have you heard?

Yea that's what pretty much everyone runs in work stock around here.. The last truck I had a hand in was that way and it worked great. The new truck is a. Different set up and will probably get changed when we have time.

 

[slipclutchms]

So what differentiates a "Reece style" to a "draw bar style" then? I had always interpreted the rule "Reece style" to mean a fixed bar perpendicular to the two frame rails...

 

[Leadfoot]

So what differentiates a "Reece style" to a "draw bar style" then? I had always interpreted the rule "Reece style" to mean a fixed bar perpendicular to the two frame rails...

For those of us who write rules, that is the intent of a rule written that way for stock classes. You didn't necessarily have to buy "Reese" (you could get one from your dealer, Curt, Draw-Tite, etc.), heck even go to your local U-Haul and have a hitch installed (usually made by one of those companies anyway), but it was expected that it would be a commercially bought unit mounted in the stock location. The thought was even to allow a homemade hitch (or one such as a standard BCH) that was built in a similar fashion utilizing factory holes. Unfortunately common sense flew out the window and guys started shoving them forward, cutting bumpers and beds on their daily drivers, and creating removable hitches in their drawbars and calling them "Reese style". Some organizations don't allow rule changes for "x" years so they were unable to be modified (and it was too late by the time they could), some orgs just didn't care, and some orgs changed the rules to force common sense to be followed. This issue becomes when guys build hitches for a more "relaxed" rule set, and then have to pull with a more strict rule set (it makes them cranky).

Just because a drawbar has a removable/pinned receiver, does not make a "Reese" style, but several clubs will allow it as such.
Basically it depends on who your pulling with. I know it would not be allowed in either of our street classes that require a "Reese" hitch (if you're pulling for points).

 

[slipclutchms]

This is the hitch rule from MTPA website, 2015.

"Hitch:
Must utilize a factory or commercial “Reese style” hitch in its intended location.
Hitch pin/bolt must be a minimum of 5/8” in diameter and grade 8 strength or equivalent.
Must be attached to frame only (bracing and extra supports are allowed).
No bracing or supports are allowed to contact body, axle, or suspension in any manner.
No cables, springs, or mechanical hitches allowed
Hitch cannot extend forward of the (unaltered) framerail ends more than 24”.
Attachment point to the sled must have a minimum 3” diameter hole and securely fastened to vehicle.
Hook point must not exceed 26” from the ground (measured with the MATPA measuring device).
Attachment point to the sled must be further back than the rearmost part of the bumper for the particular make, model, and year of truck (if a fleetside bed was available, that will be used as the measurement). It will be measured from the axle centerline for trucks with modified beds (flat beds, dump beds, utility bodies, etc.) and compared to a factory truck of similar design.
Hitch POINT (not just hitch) must be the first point of contact when backing into a vertical wall, pullers utilizing roll-pans can still pull as long as hook point is no further in than where the back of the stock rear bumper would end (this is to discourage body alterations to move hitch in). Safety devices (such as sled stops) will not be included in this measurement."

 

[Brassfield]

Wow, what's the point of a pulling truck at that point. Every puller builds and customizes every piece on their truck as it is.but is that a work stock rule or 2.5 rule?

 

[clrussell]

Wow, what's the point of a pulling truck at that point. Every puller builds and customizes every piece on their truck as it is.but is that a work stock rule or 2.5 rule?

Guess we will have to make yours look more factory

 

[slipclutchms]

At least around here (northeast) 'workstock' is the 2.5 class.

 

[bubba2400]

Typically guys build a really cool looking "reese" style hitch that is basically a drawbar. And it weighs three times as much as a regular receiver hitch. And doesn't change how the truck hooks what so ever other than taking weight off the front of the truck.

JMO

 

[duramax05blk]

Typically guys build a really cool looking "reese" style hitch that is basically a drawbar. And it weighs three times as much as a regular receiver hitch. And doesn't change how the truck hooks what so ever other than taking weight off the front of the truck.

JMO

Would that seem like enough of a benefit to justify the extra work in building the hitch and possible headaches running with different organizations?

 

[bubba2400]

My point was this: It's a waste of time and weight added to the rear of the truck unless done exactly perfect and even then it's mostly a wash when comparing the two.

 

[duramax05blk]

Ok thanks appreciate the input.

 

[Brassfield]

My truck weighs less than 6500 with me in it, and i'm FAT :roflmao:

 

[juddski88]

My point was this: It's a waste of time and weight added to the rear of the truck unless done exactly perfect and even then it's mostly a wash when comparing the two.

I respectfully disagree. A suitable custom reese style adjustable hitch including mounts, can be made to weigh under 50lbs and drastically reduce the amount of weight transferred off the front tires

 

[bubba2400]

I respectfully disagree. A suitable custom reese style adjustable hitch including mounts, can be made to weigh under 50lbs and drastically reduce the amount of weight transferred off the front tires

I agree with that somewhat, the main words in that statement is "CAN BE". Most don't. Or the setup is wrong and actually lifts the front more than a regular receiver.

So for the average person a simple receiver mounted at the rear of the frame is by far the best setup.

If I built another truck I would do the same thing so that it's not as much work.

 

[Brassfield]

No offense but like 4 square tubes of metal and a hour of time saves some $$$, I like that better any day. Plus my truck is cab and chassis so it didn't have any kind of hitch on it to begin with

 

[bubba2400]

No offense but like 4 square tubes of metal and a hour of time saves some $$$, I like that better any day. Plus my truck is cab and chassis so it didn't have any kind of hitch on it to begin with

If we are going to talk money then anyone can make one for free. Find some scrap metal and use someone else's welder, boom, free hitch. Is it optimum, probably not. Is there anything wrong with it, absolutely not.

However, it's kind of a different topic once cash comes in to the conversation.