I would do some up pipes at least, have James make the for you, it is 250 bucks to get everything to make a set of 2 inch. That's all the flanged, bellows and pipe from profab....
Why so hot
- Thread starter hondarider552
- Start date
Big single = high EGT's...
Your almost making 1000 rwhp. I wouldn't expect it to be anywhere below 1900. For all you know it is stopping at 2100, you need a gauge capable of reading over 2000 before you go switching parts. Hell, I get my truck up over 1650 and I don't have near the power you do buddy...
Your almost making 1000 rwhp. I wouldn't expect it to be anywhere below 1900. For all you know it is stopping at 2100, you need a gauge capable of reading over 2000 before you go switching parts. Hell, I get my truck up over 1650 and I don't have near the power you do buddy...
What's your reasoning behind that? I'm keeping my gauge, it doesn't need to run 1600+ guess ill start looking into manifolds and up pipes again
I don't think water is going to cut it. co2 fogger?
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I was gonna say w2a but you'd need to make sure it's plumbed water tight. Can't leach on the track. If you do a fogger you better make sure it don't get sucked in the turbo
But I think it would help. Plus it's not near expensive as some of these manifolds/up pipes or twins. That's what I would try first if everything else on the truck is good and the high EGTs are not caused by something not working correctly. Snow Performance water/meth worked great on my last truck. Leaking was not an issue.
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I hate to say it brian but i believe it to be a combination of stock parts at play. stock exhaust manis/up pipes, stock intercooler, stock cam, stock heads. I dont see changing just one of these parts dramatically dropping EGTs, only a combo of them.
I have been able to peg a 1600* pyrometer on our 3.0 truck in less than w seconds every since 2010, I have a Precision 2400hp air to water intercooler all this time and have had 5-6 different turbos. Last year I built equal length 2" primary headers with merge collectors. It still pegs a 1600* guage at the snap of my fingers under load. And I purchased 400% Exergy injectors to reduce pulse width, and my boost is 60-63 psi on current setup with less than that in drive pressure...
I honestly think an intercooler would be the biggest benefit, but then you will be able to add another 100us and make more power and temp will go up again. I think it's the nature of the beast(big single) without water or methanol injection to reduce it. Extra fuel will cool it off also. We were suffering rail pressure, so I had to keep pulse width low and we ran leaner and hotter...
I honestly think an intercooler would be the biggest benefit, but then you will be able to add another 100us and make more power and temp will go up again. I think it's the nature of the beast(big single) without water or methanol injection to reduce it. Extra fuel will cool it off also. We were suffering rail pressure, so I had to keep pulse width low and we ran leaner and hotter...
Brian just get some nice manifolds and up pipes and a good camshaft. I'll bet you a 50lb bag of my finest salt it will be a night and day difference.
Who suggested a snow w/m injection? Lol really. Its not worth its weight in scrap iron. The snow pump is not near enough pump to properly atomize water a 1000hp truck pushing 75 psi of boost. I believe a water injection would be beneficial, but you would need a set up like a lot of puller use that uses a good pump not some atv sprayer pump. Also water injection is just covering up a problem that is still there, its not a fix.
Understood guys. Easier to turn the truck down than to kick myself in the ass because i burned it up. It will be parked here shortly untill end of summer and ill see what I can do. Intercooler is first on the list. Thank you for all the input.
