Why so hot

[hondarider552]

Been trying to battle a EGT issue since day 1 of my engine build.

Cruising temps are 100* per 10mph, completely normal.

Friday night my GF took a video of the truck, and just past the 1/8 mile I saw my driver side up pipe connection glowing from the heat. I leave the line at 1100EGT and 25-28psi. The EGT gauge does not stop going up until I maxes out, literally straight down, so maybe 2000*??

I assumed this was because of the drive pressure from the old 75mm with the 83 wheel trying to push it hard, but this turbo (80mm with 87 turbine and 1.10 AR) is doing the same thing. I make 55psi of boost at full tilt, I have pressurized the intercooler system, and fixed the leaks that I found... I have stock intercooler, has been welded. I let 20psi sit in the intercooler when I swapped the 80mm on to check one last time for leaks, found none.

Maybe I am just asking too much out of my setup but I don't like it one bit, I'm going to melt my engine down before it makes it to 10,000 miles. Im trying to drive a 80mm single charger with a loose AR like it's a 66mm, I know it's not going to spool with a crap but I don't need it to. I cruise around no problem with no EGT issue.

The only thing I cannot pressurize is the intake runners from the Y bridge since some of the exhaust/intake valves will still be open no matter where in the rotation the engine is.

This is a problem and I don't know where to start. Certainly the stock intercooler is not helping but I don't feel like throwing $$$ at it to "try" to fix the problem. I'll end up pulling the engine back out this summer.

Going from 100% injectors to 200's and backing the Us down did not seem to change anything. Still is hot enough to make her glow.

Input? After I saw my stuff glowing I am calling it quits until I fix the problem.

 

[sickdiesel]

Do you have a drive pressure gauge?

 

[hondarider552]

I did for the few days of running both turbos, the 75mm saw 90lbs of drive and the 80mm sees 70psi drive on the nitrous on the same tuning/same nitrous pill.

 

[Ne-max]

You still running factory manifolds and up pipes?

 

[SSchmi5519]

You can still pressurize the whole system bridge and runners included, just because valves are open is OK, there wont be exhaust and intake valves open at the same time. it will spot a leak that's for sure.

 

[Harbin_22]

With so extreme EGTs, I would think the problem will be bigger than a boost leak. Twin it. Mine barely break 1300° with stupid pulse. 75#'s boost and around 90#'s drive.

 

[Harbin_22]

What RPM are you shifting at?

 

[Muff]

You still running factory manifolds and up pipes?

X2

 

[TROJAN366]

I know it makes big power but at this point the manifolds are probably a big restriction. That 80 at 55psi is moving so much more air than the stock manifolds and uppipes were designed to flow. Maybe time to talk to HSP? They make some big swinging billet manifold and sexual looking headers.

 

[PACougar]

I see there are some nice Brodix heads for sale right now, it'll fix you right up. I mean you have two Kidney's don't you?

 

[sickdiesel]

With so extreme EGTs, I would think the problem will be bigger than a boost leak. Twin it. Mine barely break 1300° with stupid pulse. 75#'s boost and around 90#'s drive.

x2.

my 6.7 at 104 in the 1/8 pass this weekend was 75psi of boost and around 1350 or so EGTs.

 

[hondarider552]

You still running factory manifolds and up pipes?

Yep. I didn't see the said gains with them when I ran them on my GMC with 66/80 twins, so I am VERY hesitant to try them again for the cost.

With so extreme EGTs, I would think the problem will be bigger than a boost leak. Twin it. Mine barely break 1300° with stupid pulse. 75#'s boost and around 90#'s drive.

I wont ever twin over the 80, if anything I'll go to a 66/80 setup again.

What RPM are you shifting at?

3650.

I know it makes big power but at this point the manifolds are probably a big restriction. That 80 at 55psi is moving so much more air than the stock manifolds and uppipes were designed to flow. Maybe time to talk to HSP? They make some big swinging billet manifold and sexual looking headers.

HSP is way too expensive for me. I'll pass on their stuff, it's downright cool, but not in the cards at any point in time. not going to spend 2k on manifolds

I see there are some nice Brodix heads for sale right now, it'll fix you right up. I mean you have two Kidney's don't you?

I can sacrifice those, along with my prized pig.:spit:

 

[Dirtymaxx03]

Stock camshaft still correct Brian?

 

[PACougar]

It seems like you're shifting really early for that big of a turbo.

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Is a glowing uppipe bad?! Every pull truck does it, I don't see them melting down. I figured all the racers would do it to.
Exhaust might actually still be open for just a hair right as the intake opens... But keeping air pushed in I don't think that noticable!

 

[hondarider552]

Stock camshaft still correct Brian?

Stock heads, stock cam, stock intercooler, stock manifolds/ up pipes, stock trans shafts, a lot of stock stuff :angel:

It seems like you're shifting really early for that big of a turbo.

I should have worded it better, is is set up to shift at 3650 in the TCM, but shift doe snot happen until 3800 or so. It does see 4000 before the converter locks the top of 3rd though.

 

[PACougar]

Stock heads, stock cam, stock intercooler, stock manifolds/ up pipes, stock trans shafts, a lot of stock stuff :angel:



I should have worded it better, is is set up to shift at 3650 in the TCM, but shift doe snot happen until 3800 or so. It does see 4000 before the converter locks the top of 3rd though.

Makes more sense, that's about where I shift as well.

 

[Dirtymaxx03]

I think a aftermarket camshaft may benefit you a lot. More so than someone of equal power with a compound setup.

 

[Muff]

Manis and up/pipes would haveeeeeee to help that thing get some heat out faster.

 

[mike diesel]

A stock cam has no valve overlap...you can pressurize the entire system like said earlier.