Who has the "Hot Ticket" idler & pitman arms these days?
- Thread starter AKlowriderZ71
- Start date
Either I got a bad set or have bad luck or its because I beat the snot out of my truck but my Moog idler/pitman are completely shot in less than 40k miles. I'm wondering what is better as far as stock replacement goes.
I don't drag race, pull, or launch in 4x4.
Would OEM/Raybestos/Moog used in conjunction with Tony B's brace be a good combo? Would the brace make the parts last longer?
Would OEM/Raybestos/Moog used in conjunction with Tony B's brace be a good combo? Would the brace make the parts last longer?
I believe they should last longer with the brace. I would have bought one of those braces by now if I didn't plan on lifting in the future. I have moog from Dmax store. I believe rock auto has the best pricing now though. My pitman didn't last too long. Got it replaced under warranty. Probably would go oem next with some sort of support.
I would think the brace would only work in a 4x4 launch, that's how it was designed atleast
I put factory tie rods with PPE sleeves, kryptonite idler pivot and weld in brace, moog pitman and idler arms and PPE center link. I am going to take the center link off and put a stock one back on. The link is a nice piece but the negatives of having it dont make it nice for a dd. Tire scrub accelerated tire wear short turning radius yada yada. My crewcab longbox was alot to turn around factory. Now I need a 40 acre field to get turned around. For the drag racer / puller its a great choice though.
it works and does the same job as braces as long as you make sure that nylon piece does not wear too much
What is the typical lifespan of that nylon piece?
Thanks for the discussion guys. There are quite a few options out there to consider. Real world experience is better than reading paid advertisements IMO. I just want to have a proven combo that won't break the bank.
Thanks for the discussion guys. There are quite a few options out there to consider. Real world experience is better than reading paid advertisements IMO. I just want to have a proven combo that won't break the bank.
Not saying you are wrong but how can the steering link flex and roll under a launch if the front diff isn't locked and forcing it to roll.
i know you can figure this one out
. if what your saying was true, 2wd trucks would NEVER have to replace the idler/pitman arm and never need support because there is no 4wd to create a "toe in" condition. I still replace 2wd idler/pitman arms just as much as 4wd trucks (no idler/pitman arm supports)
think about it for a bit and if its still not making sense, ill tell ya
Not so much that
turn the wheel. unless the tie rod is perfectly level (not even stock height is level), every time you turn the wheel while making a corner, that outside tire is trying to resist the turn. that upward slant of the tie rod applys torque to the centerlink and trys to twist it up. Crank the bars or add bigger tires and the same thing become amplified. this happens in both 2wd and 4wd trucks and is where guys who dont use 4wd all the time will get wear from the idler/pitman arm still and cause sloppy steering. Even if that tie rod was perfectly level, suspension movement will cause it to point up or down and when we take turns, its not like there are no bumps.
this is all due to the POS 90* degree bends in the stock centerlink. if they would have moved the idler/pitman arm back towards the rear 4-5", you would have had a straight centerlink and 0 issues with scrubbing around corners like a straight centerlink with stock tie rods would cause on a truck now.
Ok, I misunderstood what was being said. I thought you were saying a 2wd truck would roll the centerlink up when it launched. Even still, the forces trying to roll the centerlink when turning should be minimized because while one tie rod is trying to roll it up, the other one is trying to roll it down.