Wes use 1 15"
Kinda music I listen to would sound like ass on that. Thats for all the homeboys with their hippyhoppy gangbanger shit.
I need 10's, maybe 12's..... Saliva, Zombie, Rev Theory.... just won't sound the same on a 15
What sub setup are you using?
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Kinda music I listen to would sound like ass on that. Thats for all the homeboys with their hippyhoppy gangbanger shit.
I need 10's, maybe 12's..... Saliva, Zombie, Rev Theory.... just won't sound the same on a 15
It is a AW1051T. It just always sounded like it was "bottoming out". Probably wasn't the best choice but the said "professional" said it would sound great.
wes ive always run the rockford fosgate stuff. you can probably still find the old style 10" P2s for a pretty cheap price. I have 4 of those behind the seat with a old fosgate 1600watt from 2000 and she hits damn well. its very clean as well for hard rock, and all the fast beat bass stuff but can also show the high school kids that rig their hime stereo systems to their cars what bass, mids and highs are suppose to sound like lol.
Will say that i cant believe the abuse my old amp has been through and still keeps on tickin. Ive overheated this thing so many times and it has still never let me down.
Will say that i cant believe the abuse my old amp has been through and still keeps on tickin. Ive overheated this thing so many times and it has still never let me down.
Thanks james, I'll check those out. Would I be better off trying to run two subs at lower power than pushing that much through a single??
You got a pic of that setup?? 4 subs behind the seat??
Where'd you get a box to fit that??
Best Subs I ever had were Soundstream SPL 10's
They made the JL's I have now sound like ass
The truck configuration doesn't hit as hard as a SUV either though
They made the JL's I have now sound like ass
The truck configuration doesn't hit as hard as a SUV either though
2x Alpine MRD-1005 amps
2x Alpine Type-X 12" subs
I have them running at 8Ω but may change that lol I will say at 8Ω they are soooooo clear and crisp.
2x Alpine Type-X 12" subs
I have them running at 8Ω but may change that lol I will say at 8Ω they are soooooo clear and crisp.
Ok what do you think about this setup?
P2D210 10's (2)
Rockford Fosgate T500-1bd Amp
Please tell me this will pound cause my heads pounding from thinking about it all
Also I found this shit SUPER cheap on Woofersect.com. That place is sweeeet.
P2D210 10's (2)
Rockford Fosgate T500-1bd Amp
Please tell me this will pound cause my heads pounding from thinking about it all
Also I found this shit SUPER cheap on Woofersect.com. That place is sweeeet.
I would want a bigger amp then that one but then again I am not sure how you are going with it.
if you want stupid pounding and that is it go ported box and run them at around 2 Ohm
but it will sound like crap.
the amp will only put out 500W x 1 @ 2-Ohms RMS
so if the subs are 250W RMS it will be at the limit of the amp. I like to have more amp and just turn it down so it runs cooler.
if you want stupid pounding and that is it go ported box and run them at around 2 Ohm
but it will sound like crap.
the amp will only put out 500W x 1 @ 2-Ohms RMS
so if the subs are 250W RMS it will be at the limit of the amp. I like to have more amp and just turn it down so it runs cooler.
Turn it down how? Bass boost?
This would be next step up but its pushing 500W RMS @ 4ohm. Too much isnt it? Speakers are at 250 RMS
This would be next step up but its pushing 500W RMS @ 4ohm. Too much isnt it? Speakers are at 250 RMS
Steve is talking about turning the gain on the amp down. The lower the gain, the cooler the amp will run. This also depends on the input signal you are giving the amp from your head unit. What head unit are you using?
Also, are you planning to build the box yourself or purchase one? The box volume and mounting depth will also determine which sub you will be able to use in a pre-fab box.
Also, are you planning to build the box yourself or purchase one? The box volume and mounting depth will also determine which sub you will be able to use in a pre-fab box.
Prolly going with a subthump box or same design from another company that has nmore air space. Either way its prefab. Mounting depth is good for both.
What about this amp? http://www.woofersetc.com/p6089/P5002--Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-2-Ch-500-Watt-Amplifier.htm
That would be 500W @ 4 ohm stable and bridged. That would be 250W to each speaker or no? Im confusing myself now Ive been looking at so much stuff. If its not find me one on that site that would work and Id be most appreciative
Also what if I ran those speakers on that first amp I linked at 1 ohm load and had 500W RMS?
What about this amp? http://www.woofersetc.com/p6089/P5002--Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-2-Ch-500-Watt-Amplifier.htm
That would be 500W @ 4 ohm stable and bridged. That would be 250W to each speaker or no? Im confusing myself now Ive been looking at so much stuff. If its not find me one on that site that would work and Id be most appreciative
Also what if I ran those speakers on that first amp I linked at 1 ohm load and had 500W RMS?
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Looked at this one, but it's a Class AB amp. I would go with a Class D amp. Class D amps draw less current, produce less heat, and are more efficient than the Class AB amps. Based on what Steve recommended I would consider this onehttp://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=6&family_id=19&item_id=116138&locale=en_US&p_status= and go with the 4 ohm dual voice coil subs (instead of the 2 ohm dual voice coil subs). Then you could wire the coils in each speaker in parallel giving you a 2 ohm load and wire both speakers in parallel giving you a final 1 ohm load. Hope this helps. Let me know what you think.
Thanks Phillip. I guess Im not understanding some things so school me if ya will. Why do I want to go more watts than what speaker is rated for? Why would I want to go to 1 ohm load on amp when speakers are 4ohm? Will any of this hurt it (Im sure not since you say its ok but why?)?
Either way I appreciate your help
Either way I appreciate your help
Ok heres the ACTUAL power ratings (since RF is notorious for under rating) on the 500W amp I first posted and you tell me what you think and how to wire em up.
T5001bd Average Actual Power
412 X 1 @ 4ohm
628 X 1 @ 2ohm
927 X 1 @ 1ohm
T5001bd Average Actual Power
412 X 1 @ 4ohm
628 X 1 @ 2ohm
927 X 1 @ 1ohm
Sorry I'm just now getting to you. Had to mow the yard before the rain comes tomorrow. Let's see what we can do.
Having more amp power than the RMS rating on the subs gives you more flexibility. Once you start getting past the RMS rating on the amp, you start getting into distortion and distortion kills speakers.
Going to a 1 ohm load on the amp when the speakers are at 4 ohm gives you the most RMS power out of the amp (see below options).
Running a 1 ohm load on an amp designed to run stable at 1 ohm will not hurt it. The only thing you will notice is the amp will run a little hotter. However, this is where Steve was talking about turning the amp gain down and utilizing the head unit as much as possible.
You are right. Most companies under rate their equipment and RF is definitely one of those companies. If this is the actual power rating, this has the power you would need for these subs. So at this point you have two options:
Option 1) Get two 2 ohm dual voice coil subs. Wire each sub in parallel to get 1 ohm each. Then wire the subs together in series to get back up to a 2 ohm load. That would get you 628 watts (314 watts each speaker) @ 2 ohm.
Option 2) Get two 4 ohm dual voice coil subs. Wire each sub in parallel to get 2 ohm each. Then wire the subs together in parallel to get to a 1 ohm load. That would get you 927 watts (463.5 watts each speaker) @ 1 ohm.
Basically this amp will be more efficient at 2 ohms (82.3% @ 2-Ohm) than at 1 ohm (73.4% @ 1-Ohm) but 1 ohm will give you more power.
I realize this is a lot to take in but look at your options and make sure the box you get has an internal volume between 0.5 at 0.85 cubic feet.
Let me know if you have more questions and I will help as much as I can. You are also welcome to call me. If you want to call, I can PM you my number later.
(Having to go to bed now though. Have to take wife and her friend to the airport tomorrow morning at 5:00 a.m.)
Thanks Phillip. I guess Im not understanding some things so school me if ya will. Why do I want to go more watts than what speaker is rated for? Why would I want to go to 1 ohm load on amp when speakers are 4ohm? Will any of this hurt it (Im sure not since you say its ok but why?)?
Either way I appreciate your help
Having more amp power than the RMS rating on the subs gives you more flexibility. Once you start getting past the RMS rating on the amp, you start getting into distortion and distortion kills speakers.
Going to a 1 ohm load on the amp when the speakers are at 4 ohm gives you the most RMS power out of the amp (see below options).
Running a 1 ohm load on an amp designed to run stable at 1 ohm will not hurt it. The only thing you will notice is the amp will run a little hotter. However, this is where Steve was talking about turning the amp gain down and utilizing the head unit as much as possible.
You are right. Most companies under rate their equipment and RF is definitely one of those companies. If this is the actual power rating, this has the power you would need for these subs. So at this point you have two options:
Option 1) Get two 2 ohm dual voice coil subs. Wire each sub in parallel to get 1 ohm each. Then wire the subs together in series to get back up to a 2 ohm load. That would get you 628 watts (314 watts each speaker) @ 2 ohm.
Option 2) Get two 4 ohm dual voice coil subs. Wire each sub in parallel to get 2 ohm each. Then wire the subs together in parallel to get to a 1 ohm load. That would get you 927 watts (463.5 watts each speaker) @ 1 ohm.
Basically this amp will be more efficient at 2 ohms (82.3% @ 2-Ohm) than at 1 ohm (73.4% @ 1-Ohm) but 1 ohm will give you more power.
I realize this is a lot to take in but look at your options and make sure the box you get has an internal volume between 0.5 at 0.85 cubic feet.
Let me know if you have more questions and I will help as much as I can. You are also welcome to call me. If you want to call, I can PM you my number later.
(Having to go to bed now though. Have to take wife and her friend to the airport tomorrow morning at 5:00 a.m.
)
Chris, don't go too crazy here. Based on the box and subs you were talking about earlier I would say you won't be running near the output of that 500.
Also, keep in mind there is no such thing as output-splitting in a single circuit. If your amp puts out 600 watts at a given load, every load in the circuit gets the same power, given the loads are of equal value. So, two 4ohm subs in parallel giving you a 2ohm load, both subs get the same power, being the output of the amp at 2ohms.
Based on how your current sub died, you should aim for actual output of just over your subs RMS capacity. This will lead to your sub living longer.
Also, keep in mind there is no such thing as output-splitting in a single circuit. If your amp puts out 600 watts at a given load, every load in the circuit gets the same power, given the loads are of equal value. So, two 4ohm subs in parallel giving you a 2ohm load, both subs get the same power, being the output of the amp at 2ohms.
Based on how your current sub died, you should aim for actual output of just over your subs RMS capacity. This will lead to your sub living longer.