What oil would/do you run with twins?

[Magnus]

Try switching oil?

I realize this has already turned into a DIY oil cooler thread, but I'd like to go back to the original question and I'm just wondering if you've tried switching oils and tested for different results yet?

I'm not here to trash talk anyone, but the used oil analysis results for Royal Purple are not so hot... especially at $40 a gallon or whatever retail is these days.

A behemoth oil cooler to keep temps ideal under heavy towing load is a great solution as long as you tow heay for the majority of your driving. If you don't tow heavy or have temperature problems in normal use, a huge cooler might just result in oil temperature taking much longer to reach optimum temps on short trips, or oil temps running unloaded no longer getting high enough to effectively boil off condensed water in the sump (this is a huge problem with people who are too nice to airplane engines).

Plenty of oils may transfer heat better, and also hold up just fine for 225* excursions while towing heavy occasionally and still make a 10k mile oil change interval for under $25/gallon. Grab yourself something with a high HTHS test rating and go to town with a comparison.

I'd just run a test as scientifically as possible on oil temps under similar conditions with a used oil analysis, and then if you still need a cooler you'll at least now KNOW FROM FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE which oil gives you the best results for your use. And then get a cooler if you want it to boot.

 

[Magnus]

Not trying to trash talk anyone's solutions here, but personally $700 is alot of oil changes and ESPECIALLY if you discover that some cheaper fluids give you better results.

 

[hondarider552]

Fwiw, I tried rotella non synthetic, then. 5-40 synthetic, delo400, delvac and finally Petro Canada 15-40. All got to the same temps, no change.

 

[Chevy1925]

Not trying to trash talk anyone's solutions here, but personally $700 is alot of oil changes and ESPECIALLY if you discover that some cheaper fluids give you better results.

While I do understand you are not trash talking, it is pretty apparent you have not monitored oil temps in a Dmax during summer months nor winter months very much with or without a cooler.

A Dmax can easily hit 225* sustained without a cooler unloaded in traffic on a hot summer day. Mine would hit that temp without issue and that was with either delo, rotella, full syn rotella and mobile 1. No difference made. Put a trailer on the back and just towing on flats, 230-240* was constant. Hit a decent hill and your at 255-260 in a instant.

I've never had an issue who the cooler "over cooling" in the winter, even in single digits and no thermostat but if it is the case, a thermostat can easily be put in place and the thread that's been posted even suggests it.

No oil is going to take place of a cooler

 

[jacobdewey]

It's to bad 10an isn't big enough...http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-universal-oil-cooler-kit.html

 

[hondarider552]

That cooler would be fine for a soccer mom mobile, not a Dmax.

 

[jacobdewey]

That cooler would be fine for a soccer mom mobile, not a Dmax.

lol. My soccer mom mobile is my duramax, so...........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ms7KbMfXHp8



..

 

[hondarider552]

:rofl:

 

[DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7]

:roflmao:

 

[Magnus]

While I do understand you are not trash talking, it is pretty apparent you have not monitored oil temps in a Dmax during summer months nor winter months very much with or without a cooler...

No oil is going to take place of a cooler

Maybe I have maybe I haven't... maybe I pegged an LML out at 96mph with 11k total weight behind it up a 7% grade and it never got out of my comfort zone (235 pulling a grade is FINE).

I'm just saying modern oils are alot tougher than you guys are giving them credit for. By modern oils I mean anything but Royal Purple... I swear that crap shears down a weight class from the friction of pouring it out of the bottle.

You'd probably see some enhanced cooling results in a steady state tow for about $10 by just rigging up a duct to direct some cold airflow over the atmpspheric turbo. That's your heat source, and since cooling is driven by delta T the most efficient solution is to cool at the hottest spot.

Not trying to disagree, I'd just hate to see $700 flushed if it's not really necessary

*edit* or for that matter T-in a small oil cooler in the turbo return line where temps are outrageous and flow restriction or delay on crank is less of an issue...

 

[hondarider552]

Ive tried a lot of oils when I was having the oil overheat issues and saw zero change in any oil that I said I tried. Never tried Shaffers mainly because its not available at walmart 2 miles from my house.

Prove me wrong and put that oil in your LML towing 11k at 96mph and put a oil temp probe in and see how far your comfort level goes. If your coolant is 235 your oil is 260+, been there, done that.

I don't disagree, just hate to see you retest stuff that's already been proven not to help.:thumb:

 

[juddski88]

Ive tried a lot of oils when I was having the oil overheat issues and saw zero change in any oil that I said I tried. Never tried Shaffers mainly because its not available at walmart 2 miles from my house.

Prove me wrong and put that oil in your LML towing 11k at 96mph and put a oil temp probe in and see how far your comfort level goes. If your coolant is 235 your oil is 260+, been there, done that.

I don't disagree, just hate to see you retest stuff that's already been proven not to help.:thumb:

It may not have made a difference in terms of temps, but you didnt have analysis done on each oil to determine their degradation as a result of the heat load. The difference may not have been noticeable to the naked eye.

 

[Chevy1925]

Maybe I have maybe I haven't... maybe I pegged an LML out at 96mph with 11k total weight behind it up a 7% grade and it never got out of my comfort zone (235 pulling a grade is FINE).

I'm just saying modern oils are alot tougher than you guys are giving them credit for. By modern oils I mean anything but Royal Purple... I swear that crap shears down a weight class from the friction of pouring it out of the bottle.

You'd probably see some enhanced cooling results in a steady state tow for about $10 by just rigging up a duct to direct some cold airflow over the atmpspheric turbo. That's your heat source, and since cooling is driven by delta T the most efficient solution is to cool at the hottest spot.

Not trying to disagree, I'd just hate to see $700 flushed if it's not really necessary

*edit* or for that matter T-in a small oil cooler in the turbo return line where temps are outrageous and flow restriction or delay on crank is less of an issue...

Never said 235* wasn't fine for pulling a hill. 240 is what I see at every long hill I pull during the summer.

Your suggestion of changing your oil only to keep temps at by is my beef and why I stated as I did. :thumb:

 

[SickLL7Crenshaw]

I towed 24k last summer in 100*+ temps for over 100 miles. Coolant was anywhere from 200-225 trans 200-220. I know my oil temps were way up there as the plastic on my steel fittings of my oil return line from my s475 was melted

 

[baggedLB7]

I saw oil temps at over 280 deg pulling not an overly large boat with delo 15 40. Changed to Shaffer's sup 7000 15 40 and saw no difference in oil temp. After that I installed the DIY oil cooler and saw oil temps with the same boat drop down to 240 and it even helped my coolant and trans temps drop.