Water Pump Danger.
- Thread starter McRat
- Start date
I believe curtis@DPR has some sort of different water pump setup. Well I guess I know he has something as his twin CP3 kit requires removal of the factory water pump as it moves the pump out of the valley and puts it there to make more room for fancy intake manifolds.
I have seen the same thing on Cummins industrial QSK45 and QST30 engines. This would be a soloution to this problem if it ever became an issue.
I wonder what Curtis@DPR uses.......
I had this same issue with the gear coming off on one of my water pumps . The infamous whirling pump . Thought about same thing and putting a small bead on end of shaft .
what is the problem? Had Firebird and the fan hub came off the shaft and the fan went through the radiator, ouch. Had a VW (still do) where the impeller is pressed onto the shaft. The impeller came off but the belt pulley were fine. Car ran hot, but got me to and from work, 18 miles one way till dealer got part in the following week.
Isnt that the same thinking that got us into the need for keying the crank and cam? I doubt a pin would hold up.
Good find on the w/p Pat. I would have never even gave it a thought.
Never had a problem before with it. But apparently it's why I overheated before I even got to the 1000' marker in Arizona, and probably is what blew my headgaskets.
IIRC, from GM SI, the stock pump output is listed at 80 gpm. (LB7 spec methinks)
I have a buddy with an 04.5 CTD which blew the freeze plug out the back (while I was in it). The telltale sign was having the back end break loose at 90 mph+
And yes he had to do the bypass regulator thing. Fine now.
I have always wondered when or if a similar thing would happen on a Dmax at higher RPMs. I guess it would depend on how much pressure it makes in response to whetever restriction exists in the system.
Anyone ever stick a gauge in the pump outlet?
I have a buddy with an 04.5 CTD which blew the freeze plug out the back (while I was in it). The telltale sign was having the back end break loose at 90 mph+
And yes he had to do the bypass regulator thing. Fine now.I have always wondered when or if a similar thing would happen on a Dmax at higher RPMs. I guess it would depend on how much pressure it makes in response to whetever restriction exists in the system.
Anyone ever stick a gauge in the pump outlet?
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i imagine we will have to do the same thing(bypass regulator thing) with higher rpmsiirc, from gm si, the stock pump output is listed at 80 gpm. (lb7 spec methinks)
i have a buddy with an 04.5 ctd which blew the freeze plug out the back (while i was in it). The telltale sign was having the back end break loose at 90 mph+
I have always wondered when or if a similar thing would happen on a dmax at higher rpms. I guess it would depend on how much pressure it makes in response to whetever restriction exists in the system.
Anyone ever stick a gauge in the pump outlet?
We found that the oil pump gear was spinning on the 01 LB7 we built, The nut was tight it was spinning on the shaft.We had the machine shop key the shaft and gear.So I would say ket the water pump also. I'm not big on the welding.
super diesel
<<<< Under Pressure
Wonder how hard it is on the pump when deccelerating down a grade and the RPMs are at around 4500+? Wouldn't this cause this situation as well? Things that make you go, HMMMM???? Good info Pat.
Also, I didn't like the oil pump to shaft engagement either. I drilled a 32nd hole on an angle through the gear and into the shaft and ran a nitrited (case hardened) pin into it and ground it off then tighted the bejeasus out of the nut holding it in place. I put the pump with gear on it into a vice with aluminum jaws to hold the gear while I did this.
Also, I didn't like the oil pump to shaft engagement either. I drilled a 32nd hole on an angle through the gear and into the shaft and ran a nitrited (case hardened) pin into it and ground it off then tighted the bejeasus out of the nut holding it in place. I put the pump with gear on it into a vice with aluminum jaws to hold the gear while I did this.
(Pat) -
Tonight I looked at the LLY waterpump vs. the LBZ pump.
The LLY has a 16.5mm main shaft, 8 iron blades 20mm high on a 110mm diameter, driven by a ~10mm wide gear.
The LBZ has a 18.5mm main shaft, 7 plastic blades 20mm high on a 115mm diameter, driven by a ~5mm wide gear.
The LBZ also has a much larger inlet and a reservior to catch seeping from the vent hole. If a few drops of water come out of the bearing, the LBZ will catch it in a hidden cup, where an LLY will just drip on the ground.
Tonight I looked at the LLY waterpump vs. the LBZ pump.
The LLY has a 16.5mm main shaft, 8 iron blades 20mm high on a 110mm diameter, driven by a ~10mm wide gear.
The LBZ has a 18.5mm main shaft, 7 plastic blades 20mm high on a 115mm diameter, driven by a ~5mm wide gear.
The LBZ also has a much larger inlet and a reservior to catch seeping from the vent hole. If a few drops of water come out of the bearing, the LBZ will catch it in a hidden cup, where an LLY will just drip on the ground.
Just a little heads up. If you do decide to arc weld it, do not run the ground to the aluminum center section. You could (and probably will) damage the bearings when current goes through them.
Way over thinking this aren't you?
Your alternator is already there and spinning and I'm sure a extra 20 amp or so draw isn't going to rob 12hp.
Aren't a lot of guys running Electric fans? There is a few different electric water pump assemblies available from direct drive to pulley /belt drive to a remote set-up.
I figure it would be efficient cooling as long as it flowed GPM near what a mechanical pump flowed at say 3500,4000 RPM.
I'm going to run a CSR pump on my 340 stroked to a 416 that put down 500 HP. The only argument I ran into in stating my decision was reliability long term and warm ups running with out a t-stat. The latter is easy enough to run the power through a switch. I do wonder about NOT having temperature swings.
Kat are you hanging around Pat's shop?
Our electric pump setup seems to work fine for pulling. Don't know how it'd be on the street but don't care about that. Here is the mezeire inline pump and the blockoff plate from my puller thread.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3299&d=1211219452
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3301&d=1211219513
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3299&d=1211219452
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3301&d=1211219513
Here da picture
If I could JUST figure out a alternator mount.
Nice!
(even for a Mopar
)Kat are you hanging around Pat's shop?
I guess you missed the first part & only when I want something done on Wendy :baby: