Yep closer to the intake the better watched a lb7 pick up 70-90 rwhp on a superdlow dyno with the 60/40 mix
Water Injection: before or after turbo???
- Thread starter GeneralTJI
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Really? Every Truck does react different with that stuff I hear lots of timing rattle.in lly-lmm motors in general so not alot but some your can hear mine rattle now though :rofl:
On edit I meant 60% water to 40% Methonal
So true. Gayest job I have had to do yet was pulling the stocker out!
QUOTE]
exactly what was tough?
Obvious that you haven't pulled one out in awhile.
I think it has to do with the old joke: "What's long and hard on a Canuck?"
A: 4th grade.
Ouch.
I could be compelled to donate an I-FOG to help dispel or confirm old myths/new fears. For controlled testing, documented and displayed here in the open.
What I always find odd, is the opinion that you might erode the compressor blade, while the adjacent thread is head-scratching over holes in pistons...plus concerns that somehow override the harsher reality that the same person is eventually going to blow up his turbo, the nature of the compulsion this hobby takes. Compressor erosion never rendered a vehicle stranded, or blew up pistons with shrapnel, or caused an oil runaway.
It works when applied with sound concepts. Maybe someone out there is instrumented and can quantify this once and for all. I like it mainly for induction cooling, a thermal feedback cure of sorts.
What I always find odd, is the opinion that you might erode the compressor blade, while the adjacent thread is head-scratching over holes in pistons...plus concerns that somehow override the harsher reality that the same person is eventually going to blow up his turbo, the nature of the compulsion this hobby takes. Compressor erosion never rendered a vehicle stranded, or blew up pistons with shrapnel, or caused an oil runaway.
It works when applied with sound concepts. Maybe someone out there is instrumented and can quantify this once and for all. I like it mainly for induction cooling, a thermal feedback cure of sorts.
Air compresses, water doesn't. Spraying water droplets at an aluminum impeller that's very hot and spinning more than 100,000rpm doesn't seem like a good idea.
i looked at some of my old dyno sheets and my snow stage 2 with the 2 larger nozzles only made 10-20 hp more at peak, but made almost 100 more h.p. under the curve using 50/50 mix
What size nozzle would you guys suggest?? I'm making around 28psi at best.... I got a screaming deal on this kit used, came with 4 injectors... 2 small and 2 larger ones. I'm only seeing 50 to mabe 100 degree drops in egts. It's not going through the gallon tank very fast so I'm assuming it wouldn't hurt to buy another larger nozzle....
Which stock turbo I would run the 2 small nozzles or if you are planning on going with a bigger turbo here soon I would install the 2 big nozzles and back the injection % down to like 30% at WOT just my 2 cents
I have the stage 1 Coolingmist, so I don't have any control except for the boost pressure that activates the pump. And while I just had my IC pipe off I didn't add another port for a second nozzle (Dumbass)
Ok... so back on subject for a minute, Anyone have an idea of what size injector I should be running with a stock turbo / 28psi on a 150psi pump??
Fwiw. My 175 nozzle sprays almost all the time starting at 0-2 Psi with 100 percent at anywhere from 10-20 psi
The next stage, 375 + 625 nozzles when spraying based on psi start at 25.
When its set on egt mode all three start spraying at (approx) 1000 egt roughly
The next stage, 375 + 625 nozzles when spraying based on psi start at 25.
When its set on egt mode all three start spraying at (approx) 1000 egt roughly
I have run w/m for a few years. If you are wanting to see any benifit from it run atleast two of the bigger nozzles. I based off of a snow stage two kit and modded from there. With a pump pushing over 250psi and two 625 nozzles with 50/50 mix I dynoed 30rwhp and lost 125* egt. Before my build I was running three nozzles and a 70/30 meth/water mix egt stayed the same but you could actually feel the power. Personally I wouldn't spray pre turbo. The water will vaporize at the wheel and leave mineral deposits in the compressor housing. Probably not much different than running an air filter with a bigger micron filter such as K&N. The less debris in my charger the better. JMO
Thanks guys, that gives me some ballpark on where to start (I have no idea what size nozzle I'm using now, but I think it's too small).
What about spraying pre-IC where the charge is really hot? Does the water puddle up in the IC? just curious because I could add a second jet MUCH easier to the pre-IC pipe I made since it's a two piece pipe.
What about spraying pre-IC where the charge is really hot? Does the water puddle up in the IC? just curious because I could add a second jet MUCH easier to the pre-IC pipe I made since it's a two piece pipe.
If you locate a mist in a 100 mph, 400F heated air stream, there is a less than 0% chance of puddling anywhere.
However, when you use a large capacity, coarse misting nozzle that is pointed toward a wall only 3" away, you can count on some recombining to occur, even in those conditions. When that happens the surface area of your liquid decreases, and so does evaporation rate. Time is the killer. At WOT, charge air has about 1 second in the induction tract, and that's just not enough time. The further downstream you locate the nozzle, the less time it is exposed. In typical settups, most water enters the cylinder in liquid form. That is a pointless arrangement, that yields the least performance increase (water only).
There are many WWII vets who lived long lives for one reason. And in none of those cases was the water dosed post-compressor. Real performance gains, and service cieling increase, came from making the turbo effectively "bigger" when it was needed most.
:spit:
If you are un-willing or un-able to make a system work pre-turbo, I would go the route you're talking about here. KB brings up a good point, the more time the water has to evaporate the better the effect the system will have. Spraying about a foot and a half from the actual bridge, and about 2 feet from the cylinder ports, the water will be introduced into the cylinder as a liquid...and I would be somewhat worried about it quenching the combustion. I would not worry much about pooling of the water in the CAC, especially if you keep the spray in the higher load range, IE more airflow=more turbulence in the intake system and little to no chance of the liquid falling out of suspension before its evaporated.
I agree with what your saying... it makes sense. I may install one of the small nozzles I have just after the turbo (pre IC) and spray a little extra that way and see what happens... I have it dialed to come on around 18psi so that should keep enough air moving :thumb:
It's not worth the risk to me of damaging the compressor wheel.... but I think spraying pre ic sounds like it's worth trying out...
It's not worth the risk to me of damaging the compressor wheel.... but I think spraying pre ic sounds like it's worth trying out...
Couple pics of the finished deal... added a smaller jet to the pre-ic tube today after work. Haven't tried it yet...(with the 2nd nozzle)
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