PS. Thanks for reminding me to call those guys... I promised them a ride couple years back, but now thinking maybe offer them a new project. This boat be a good fit for that $$$$ crew..
I've wondered about how well that would work for a while now. It's a shame they didn't take more time to do a good job. Bit that would have probably required removing the engine and stripping it downGarret AKA Cleetus McFarland did JB Weld on an LS engine...
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkMlsitbGIc&ab_channel=CleetusMcFarland
Well, it's not actually a temperature sensing freeze plug,, but a temperature sensitive tab that is pretty common in the used or reman engine market. They melt when the temp gets above a certain value, so if you go back to where you got the engine and say it failed, if the tab is melted, warranty void. Was that one actually melted? Doesn't really look like it ..Oh yeah, my machine buddy taught me something new today.
Seems someone invented these neat little temperature sensing freeze plugs, that have a pop out dot in the middle to alert the machine shop if engine parts were overheated. And last shop stuck some in these heads..
Winner Winner
But they don't tell ya the set value.. What fun is that...
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Ok, I traced the history of these overtemp dotted heads. And as you suspected, they came from a major engine reman. My GM tech buddy reminded me, I bought an engine from local guys shed who was moving same day. He purchased an LMM reman long block, installed it, but claimed it had a bottom end noise. They sent him a replacement, and he tossed this one under a tarp behind the garage. It had like zero hours, but had gotten rained in. We pulled those heads, and had them clean and trued again when it acted up first time in the boat. So it's likely the've had around 0.015+ milled off before this last cutting. So am going to guestimate that's about the max ya wanta take before cutting valve seats. Makeing my spare castings within specs to cut, if truely stock.Well, it's not actually a temperature sensing freeze plug,, but a temperature sensitive tab that is pretty common in the used or reman engine market. They melt when the temp gets above a certain value, so if you go back to where you got the engine and say it failed, if the tab is melted, warranty void. Was that one actually melted? Doesn't really look like it ..
Some straight ones.. lolSo do you need some heads?
Ask PPE to Sponsor you... show them how it would be good marketing for them.New heads not in the budget this time around. Fuel getting turned down to sub 800hp range, where I know it lives happily with 40psi boost. The next player can put some cast iron heads on both engines, and likely resolve all the gasket issue. Or this next head set might be fine for decade, if someone doesn't overheat em like I did.
After considering all head gasket experience gained by my friends at Innovation, who invested thousands of hours working with Curitis H back in the early days trying build a LB7-LBZ Navy version, ya gotta respect the data. Their data all says OEM aluminum heads won't stay torqued when run at over 800 hp in continuous high RPM environments. Simply a difference in expansion rate. They could never get them to hold and pass the 24hr at 80% to WOT test.. Yet at 700hp they stick fine.
Boat runs 80mph plus with em limited to 800hp. Anything above that, milage remains questioable.
I think he’s thinking of the PPE cast iron heads?Was actually just getting ready to call em.. ARP ya mean??
Looking for the biz card of the rep who checked these engines out at UCC.
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I did mean PPE and the cast Iron heads.I think he’s thinking of the PPE cast iron heads?