I believe many have done that, but you need a stronger plate than just the blocker. If it were me, I would spend the extra $200 and get a race pipe from RDL or DRP. Have one good go at it rather than leave the egr present.
Turbo help
- Thread starter J_Stone06
- Start date
I believe many have done that, but you need a stronger plate than just the blocker. If it were me, I would spend the extra $200 and get a race pipe from RDL or DRP. Have one good go at it rather than leave the egr present.
I'm thinking of fabricating a boost leak tester and trying to figure out where the rest of my leak(s) are...Due to boost performance, it seems like whereever it is leaking from is a decent sized leak, i cant seem to build over 18-20 psi out of the 4094 and I can still hear the leak in tandom with the turbo spooling. Gonna double check all the boots/clamps in the morning.
I'm thinking of fabricating a boost leak tester and trying to figure out where the rest of my leak(s) are...Due to boost performance, it seems like whereever it is leaking from is a decent sized leak, i cant seem to build over 18-20 psi out of the 4094 and I can still hear the leak in tandom with the turbo spooling. Gonna double check all the boots/clamps in the morning.
Good place to start
Is there a reason that you can't delete the EGR? Quite frankly if it were me I would take it back to the dealership tell them there is obviously a boost leak and it started after they worked on it and it needs to be fixed... 4k?! Man... that's why I just deleted that garbage as soon as I could. I bought the Profab kit and a new LB7 Up pipe and an MBRP downpipe... I did most of it by myself, but a buddy ended up coming over for a couple hours and we got everything out. Man for 4k... you need to make some noise... it wasn't like that when you brought it in... make enough noise and it will be fixed... I'd call every manager and regional rep I could find...
I agree man, I was under tight time constraints when my CP3 went out and I "THOUGHT" I could trust a Chevy dealer to do the job right without issue, but ended up getting screwed over with man hour labor being the highest $$ and of course I didn't get quoted full pricing until the top half of the engine was already off. I threw a big fit with their management team, but it fell on deaf ears when I told them about boost issues and my turbo screeching. I contacted big GM and they pretty much told me that they have to rely on their techs on the ground for these matters, as the subject matter experts( they were far from that). Right now, I'm still dealing with boost issues and I think I've narrowed it down to the Intake Horn and/or Y-Bridge. I understand that some may shake their heads and think I'm a dumb@** and to some extent I think so too, but it was a painful learning experience for me and obviously an expensive one most of all.
On edit: I'm trying to keep as much stock as possible for reverting purposes...
No way man... it's no fault of yours... you expect professionals to do a good job. I think everyone has been in a spot like that at some point. If I were in your shoes I would just get that crap out of there... it's a brutal job, but in the course of it you realize how stupid all that crap is and all the issues that can and will arise due to it...
You're probably going to have to get balls deep in that thing to find and fix the leak. I don't remember what I spent in parts, but it wasn't much... like $100 for the down pipe, $50 or $70 for the up pipe and like $275 for the delete pipe. That crap just doesn't have any place in the motor..
You're probably going to have to get balls deep in that thing to find and fix the leak. I don't remember what I spent in parts, but it wasn't much... like $100 for the down pipe, $50 or $70 for the up pipe and like $275 for the delete pipe. That crap just doesn't have any place in the motor..
So, after a deployment and a bunch of time away, I'm finally getting to doing the job. Unfortunately my truck still hasn't been fully fixed. I got in to replace the junk factory y bridge only to run into a major clearance issue with 1 bolt next to the turbo housing. I tried shaving down 2 10mm wrenches which didn't help. To boot, my coolant line running to the turbo is completely loose and from what I can reach with my hand seems to be leaking coolant out of it. I tried researching the PN but the diagrams are a little confusing. Now I have to pull the turbo again and figure all that out as well. Any tips or tricks would be helpful yall. Thanks.
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, great minds think alike. I have Rick's shorty bridge setup I'm putting in. It just really sucks I got all this way to find that the coolant line is really loose on the turbo and now I have go pull that was well, which means all the piping, etc.. I'll have to remove to get that out*
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