Transmission cooler line questions

[JoshH]

My cooler lines have been leaking for almost 20k miles. I'm really wanting to do something about it besides replacing them with stock replacements. I found some cool AN fittings that can be clamped onto a straight tube. I was thinking about doing this and replacing the rubber on the stock lines with braided stainless hose and AN fittings. The only problem is the fittings I'm looking at are only good up to 50 psi, and I'm not sure how much pressure runs through there. Anyone know?

What about the fittings that go into the cooler, anyone know what they are?

If that doesn't work I may end up taking them to a hydraulic shop and having them make me something.

Anyone have any cooler lines for an 06 or 07 classic laying around they want to get rid of?

 

[chevmike]

Same problem here. I have been looking into it for awhile too. I believe there is more than 50psi running in those lines, not sure how much. Please let me know what you figure out.

 

[The Neens]

I think it's more like 200psi...

 

[JoshH]

I think it's more like 200psi...

I'm afraid you're right. I kind of figured it's higher than 50.

 

[coldLBZ]

This summer I plan on getting some hydraulic lines made up. I'm on my 3rd set of factory lines.

 

[MAXLLY]

I looked into this and talked with Mike about it. IIRC he thought the lines saw 70-80 PSI, trans temps could be assumed at 275 MAX.

Earls has lines that fit this spec.

The tolerances between the lines and the block/starter/frame are tight down there. I would "sleeve" a braided line if you choose that mat'l. Braid is cool, but it chews through anyhting it contacts.

The hydraulic shop will have a SUPER TOUGH mat'l/sleeve you can wrap the braided line in, I can't memmer the name of it. It's black and they use it to cover the large hydraulic bucket lines at the mast, these rub the mast while in operation all day long. I use a stainless wire and wrap the cover to the line, versus zip ties. The zip ties will get brittle after a few months and break.

Good luck Dude.

 

[Turbotug]

I used one of the tube nut style connections that you are refering to when I assembled my lift pump/filter set up. It doesn't seem to seal all that well. It doesn't drip, but just has some build up crap. Doesn't work all that well at lift pump pressure, doubt it will at trans line pressure either.

 

[coldLBZ]

Ordered my 4th set of trans lines under warranty today. Should be on the truck in 2 weeks.

 

[LBZ]

Your hard on equipment Dan!!
They just replaced mine under warranty-the first set-25000km.

 

[Mike L.]

Cooler lines normaly see 83 psi in the Alli and with pump upgrades even more. I would not take out the flex part of the line as it is there to absorb vibration and avoid rubbing against metal.

 

[coldLBZ]

Just got my 4th set of lines put in along with the TCM recalibration at 35 200 km. The whole ordeal took over 4 hours. It seems like the trans is relearning again, probably just because of the reflash.

 

[sweetdiesel]

I looked into this and talked with Mike about it. IIRC he thought the lines saw 70-80 PSI, trans temps could be assumed at 275 MAX.

Earls has lines that fit this spec.

The tolerances between the lines and the block/starter/frame are tight down there. I would "sleeve" a braided line if you choose that mat'l. Braid is cool, but it chews through anyhting it contacts.
If you did decide on hyd lines you wouldnt neccesarly have to go there
you could rought the lines in a different way....Just a thought
The hydraulic shop will have a SUPER TOUGH mat'l/sleeve you can wrap the braided line in, I can't memmer the name of it. It's black and they use it to cover the large hydraulic bucket lines at the mast, these rub the mast while in operation all day long. I use a stainless wire and wrap the cover to the line, versus zip ties. The zip ties will get brittle after a few months and break.
Agree with that
Good luck Dude.

zip ties in Canadas winter last about a day:rofl: I would almost consider if i had the room cutting a larger hose to go over top of the hyd hose to protect it.....if you had the room to do so?

 

[coldLBZ]

Bump:
My 4th set of trans lines are leaking again. So what size, thread, etc are the fittings on these lines? In the Summit catalog I found Aeroquip AQP racing hose. It's good for 1000 psi, and temps from -55F to +300F. It was -44F at my place on Saturday, so I need hose rated for cold temps. Anyone else been thinking about this?

 

[ruffmanatv]

Bump:
My 4th set of trans lines are leaking again. So what size, thread, etc are the fittings on these lines? In the Summit catalog I found Aeroquip AQP racing hose. It's good for 1000 psi, and temps from -55F to +300F. It was -44F at my place on Saturday, so I need hose rated for cold temps. Anyone else been thinking about this?

Let me know what you are looking for. I can most likely get it cheaper then you can get it through Summit. I work at Aeroquip, which is now a division of Eaton.

 

[LBZ]

Your hard on tranny lines Dan. No problems with mine at all

 

[MAXLLY]

Bump:
My 4th set of trans lines are leaking again. So what size, thread, etc are the fittings on these lines? In the Summit catalog I found Aeroquip AQP racing hose. It's good for 1000 psi, and temps from -55F to +300F. It was -44F at my place on Saturday, so I need hose rated for cold temps. Anyone else been thinking about this?

What a drag... If it was me i spose i would remove the lines, take 'em down to Parker (or trace them onto a piece of plywood and put them back on the truck if its the DD) and tell them what the deal is.

Replacing it with the same part ain't working... wouldn't do that again.

They'll make you a hard or soft or a hybrid line for vibration control that will stand up to your abuse. Maybe braided, sleeved etc. They be less expensive than the hose you found at Summit, IIRC that line is a sleeved/teflon braid, very lite and +/- $6 a foot.

Of course tell them to overkill the design. Something your doing or something in install or habitat is causing repeated failure. Get a better part, consult the local backhoe operator (very tough on lines and working in your cold temps) or Parker shop.

Good luck Dude, Maybe Mike will chime in when he gets to the shop. He's prolly the one to answer... sorry

 

[coldLBZ]

Thanks guys. I don't know what the deal is, if it's something I'm doing or bad parts, or install, but it's just not working. When I warm up my truck in the morning I use the factory high idle, and it runs like that until there is temp showing on the gauge for the trans and engine. If anyone has a spare set laying around could you please tell me the size and thread of the fittings? And maybe the approximate length of the lines? Thanks.

 

[clayt171]

Give Mike a call. He sells a fix. I will let the Dealer do mine that are leaking now and after that I will fix them right.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Your hard on tranny lines Dan. No problems with mine at all

Drive much?:joker:


many guys that live and work in cold climates have probloms with these lines lbz seem to be worse Face it there connections SUCK ive crimped a few lines in my day and look at theres and know i could do better!

they dont use enough pressure on the crimper imo,you cnt see the lines in the crimp.......maybe it is just me

 

[LBZ]

Drive much?:joker:

55 000km on the truck. Not bad considering I only drive it 6 months of the year!

I would say just take the hose to a hydraulic hose making shop and tell them you need ~1000psi hose put on to the pipe in your hand. They should be able to crimp onto the stock pipe.