Trailer Shopping

lts1ow

Needs moar PAH!
May 14, 2012
1,598
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36
NJ
Really tired of borrowing or renting Uhaul trailers to move my car around, so looking at grabbing a single car trailer.

Any brands to stay away from or look at? I am located in NJ and have no problem driving a ways to get the trailer from a manufacturer etc.

Car weighs under 4k lbs so the rating of the trailer seems to be confusing, do I go with what I need, or go overkill with rating? Does a gooseneck single exist?
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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in the buckeye state

rmallen30

Member
Aug 12, 2009
861
15
18
hillsboro ohio
I would do a 10000 gvw not 7000 bc that way if you want to haul something other than your car you are still covered and not going to be maxing out your trailer. yes the make between the fender tandem axle goosenecks if that is what you are asking
as far as quality make sure you get good paint or powder coat and name brand axles like dexter not off brand they are what does all your work.
 

lts1ow

Needs moar PAH!
May 14, 2012
1,598
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36
NJ
For a car that at most would weigh 4k lbs (its closer to 3200 area but ssshh) wouldn't the 10k rated trailer be way over kill?
 

lts1ow

Needs moar PAH!
May 14, 2012
1,598
0
36
NJ
yes but if you ever want to haul your truck the 7k is to light

That would be interesting, how would I haul the truck when the truck is on the trailer ;)

But I see your point, realistically, no one could tow my truck if it were to have to be trailered somewhere, so it would end up on a flat bed anyways. This trailer would be primarily for the race car and or maybe a family car etc.

Other than price if I were to get a 10k trailer, does that mean higher registration fees?
 

lts1ow

Needs moar PAH!
May 14, 2012
1,598
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NJ
Ok, and there is no other issue with getting the trailer rated at 10k and it being not commercial etc?
 

rmallen30

Member
Aug 12, 2009
861
15
18
hillsboro ohio
not in ohio ? not sure where you are couple other things to look into is removable fenders,5ft ramps some cheapies come w 4 ft and a flush floor helps. Most trailers the deck is built ontop of the frame the one i have for low cars is all tubing and the tongue is built into the floor do right off the get go the trailer is about 4'' lower than most trailers makes it nice putting low things on
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
11,249
26
38
64
Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
IMO:

Enclosed trailers are more useful, but harder to tie down in.

Ramp angle is critical for racecars. Ramps should have bite in the rain, or you'll be sorry someday.

Aluminum (if you can afford it) will eventually pay for itself and hold it's value better. No matter what they tell you, your steel trailer (or wood) will rust or splinter.

If the axles are the same bolt pattern as your truck, it will save your butt in an emergency.

Surge brakes are more reliable, but electric is often cheaper. YOU NEED BRAKES, the more the better.

On open trailers, it's nice to have folding fenders and low rails so you can open the doors completely.

There is no such thing as too many tiedown points. #1 mistake is not getting a bunch.

On an open trailer, it's nice to have a locking box on the trailer nose. It will come in handy.

You will get dirt, slime, and paint damage with an open trailer, UNLESS you have a nose piece on the trailer.

Rollers on the tail can be really helpful when going up steep drives, or backing up in the dirt.

The trailer dealer often will get the empty weight wrong. My 4000lb empty trailer weighs 6000. My 2000 weighed 2600.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
11,249
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64
Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
Weight rating is usually limited by the axle model and the tires. #1 cause for trailer tires blowing up is over loading or underinflation while loaded near limit.

Your weight rating is the trailer weight + load. ie - A 2000lb trailer with a 4000lb car needs at least 6000 (7 is better).

Many trailer dealers will build the trailer to your spec. Map everything out carefully, and get what YOU need. It seldom costs much more.
 

lts1ow

Needs moar PAH!
May 14, 2012
1,598
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NJ
While an enclosed trailer would be awesome, there is no way I am finding the place to store that when its not being used. The car is not a strict race car, still tagged/insured so I will be daily driving it when the weather is nice. Trailer is for when its broken (alot) or headed to the track to break it. :woott:

Would a 10k rated 21ft trailer with a gooseneck be a worthwhile investment, or is that still under the line of sticking with a bumper pull? (where is the line for that btw? )
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,294
610
113
42
in the buckeye state
Weight rating is usually limited by the axle model and the tires. #1 cause for trailer tires blowing up is over loading or underinflation while loaded near limit.

Your weight rating is the trailer weight + load. ie - A 2000lb trailer with a 4000lb car needs at least 6000 (7 is better).

sooooo many screw this up including MFGs

capacity of trailer is axles PLUS tongue weight.. ie 5000lb axle plus 1000lb tongue is 6000lb.. people seam to forget the front part of the trailer. its like rateing the truck without the front axle...

the other screw up, is they see 5000lb capcity and forget the empty trailer weigh on the tires and put 5,000lb over the axles and now it over loaded..

pending empty weight of a 5k its the bare minimum trailer you can run for a 4k car.. it also depends how much tongue weight you can run as well.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
11,249
26
38
64
Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
My current trailer is bumper pull, enclosed, electric brakes on both 7000lb axles, extra tall, extra wide, side door to exit car/truck, 8000lb ramp with very low angle, side door in nose to load golfcart. Steel frame, alum sides. IIRC, $11,000 delivered? TrailerProPop? had it built for me. Will accept a Duramax truck.
 

lts1ow

Needs moar PAH!
May 14, 2012
1,598
0
36
NJ
The car is worth maybe $4k to an insurance agency so its not getting a fancy ass enclosed trailer thats for sure

I will call Kaufman and Appalachian to get some prices on trailers.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
11,249
26
38
64
Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
While an enclosed trailer would be awesome, there is no way I am finding the place to store that when its not being used. The car is not a strict race car, still tagged/insured so I will be daily driving it when the weather is nice. Trailer is for when its broken (alot) or headed to the track to break it. :woott:

Would a 10k rated 21ft trailer with a gooseneck be a worthwhile investment, or is that still under the line of sticking with a bumper pull? (where is the line for that btw? )

Tongue rating is your limit. I put 1500 on my tongue (I have a scale) with a custom hitch, and load up to 14k total trailer weight, and have driven all over the US with it, no issues.

With an enclosed trailer, you use it for storage for the off season.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
11,249
26
38
64
Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
The car is worth maybe $4k to an insurance agency so its not getting a fancy ass enclosed trailer thats for sure

I will call Kaufman and Appalachian to get some prices on trailers.

:D

The $11,000 trailer is WAY overkill unless you are putting a Duramax in it.

24' Carson trailer was my most recent flat trailer. Built like a tank, I also hauled heavy machinery on it.