Towing Compounds

1FastBrick

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platinum was the highest grade IIRC so it would have come standard
I am genuinely curious. The seat look the same from the out side as an Up level GMT 800 03-07 classic seat. I wonder if the door panel switch is different for the cooling function?
 

rcr1978

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Apr 1, 2007
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My only concern with the .83 would be the loss of overall flow/where it chokes out and the added cost over say the standard 0.91 housing. I am going 364.5/68/0.91 and 480/96/1.15 on my LB7 after going back and forth with a few guys who have ran that setup or a very very similar setup as I also thought about going with the tight gated housing on either turbine wheel.

I figured a gated housing would be better since once the drive pressure comes up you could just adjust the gate for it. The fixed housing you pretty much stuck or going to a larger A/R but it's still going to choke but possibly a couple hundred rpm higher? I wonder if a guy ran as spring on the gate instead of a actuator so it work of of drive pressure if it would be any better?

I had a stock turbo with my first setup but the gate broke about 300 miles after putting the twins on, went to a larger drop in valley that's in my sig but just lost to much low end and boost hauling in the flats. I also have a 1.15 A/R on my 480 so i'm looking for a new setup to, I need something a little more usable than what I have since mine tow's 16k pretty regularly, elevation is 6k+ with lots of hills/mountains. My valley charger has the same size turbine as the smaller SXE borg =76/68 I just think the way the turbine housing is machined to fit the bigger turbine to much velocity is lost down low but it does run really good up high. If I run with the gate unplugged on the current setup the drive pressure gets about 1.5 to 1.75:1 when over 3200rpm, it's moslty 1:1 or less while towing when the rpms are under 2800.
 

Bdsankey

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I figured a gated housing would be better since once the drive pressure comes up you could just adjust the gate for it. The fixed housing you pretty much stuck or going to a larger A/R but it's still going to choke but possibly a couple hundred rpm higher? I wonder if a guy ran as spring on the gate instead of a actuator so it work of of drive pressure if it would be any better?

I had a stock turbo with my first setup but the gate broke about 300 miles after putting the twins on, went to a larger drop in valley that's in my sig but just lost to much low end and boost hauling in the flats. I also have a 1.15 A/R on my 480 so i'm looking for a new setup to, I need something a little more usable than what I have since mine tow's 16k pretty regularly, elevation is 6k+ with lots of hills/mountains. My valley charger has the same size turbine as the smaller SXE borg =76/68 I just think the way the turbine housing is machined to fit the bigger turbine to much velocity is lost down low but it does run really good up high. If I run with the gate unplugged on the current setup the drive pressure gets about 1.5 to 1.75:1 when over 3200rpm, it's moslty 1:1 or less while towing when the rpms are under 2800.

IMO I'd run the 364.5/68 with a 0.91 and go from there as that housing is ~$170 vs $375-$500. Any of the smaller turbines are going to choke, that gate isn't going to move enough volume to make all the difference in the world and I would bet it's also not going to make your drive 1:1 as you get higher in the rev-range.
 

JoshH

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I am genuinely curious. The seat look the same from the out side as an Up level GMT 800 03-07 classic seat. I wonder if the door panel switch is different for the cooling function?
I'm not sure if you ever looked up the switches or not, but I was curious about it as well. I did a quick google and found these images showing the switches for the seats. It looks like with the addition of cooling, they moved the seat heater (and cooling) function of the seat controls to the center console. You can see the memory seat and pedal adjustment switch on the door panel is blank where the heat function normally resides. It looks like you would need to also source a console and probably floor harness to do the conversion. As a bonus, you would also get the heated and cooled cup holders with the console.
 

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Bdsankey

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I'm not sure if you ever looked up the switches or not, but I was curious about it as well. I did a quick google and found these images showing the switches for the seats. It looks like with the addition of cooling, they moved the seat heater (and cooling) function of the seat controls to the center console. You can see the memory seat and pedal adjustment switch on the door panel is blank where the heat function normally resides. It looks like you would need to also source a console and probably floor harness to do the conversion. As a bonus, you would also get the heated and cooled cup holders with the console.

Would that then mean I need to do a dash conversion since this is 01-02 and has a different console/dash than 03-07?
 

JoshH

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Would that then mean I need to do a dash conversion since this is 01-02 and has a different console/dash than 03-07?
It would probably be more trouble than it is worth for you with the 01-02 trucks given how different they are from the 03-07 trucks, but if you want to try it anyway, you might be able to set it up as a stand alone system. However, it may require a complete swap over to the 03+ wiring. I haven't looked into the wiring enough to see what systems the heated/cooled seats integrate with.
 

Bdsankey

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It would probably be more trouble than it is worth for you with the 01-02 trucks given how different they are from the 03-07 trucks, but if you want to try it anyway, you might be able to set it up as a stand alone system. However, it may require a complete swap over to the 03+ wiring. I haven't looked into the wiring enough to see what systems the heated/cooled seats integrate with.

Katzkin it is.
 
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1FastBrick

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I'm not sure if you ever looked up the switches or not, but I was curious about it as well. I did a quick google and found these images showing the switches for the seats. It looks like with the addition of cooling, they moved the seat heater (and cooling) function of the seat controls to the center console. You can see the memory seat and pedal adjustment switch on the door panel is blank where the heat function normally resides. It looks like you would need to also source a console and probably floor harness to do the conversion. As a bonus, you would also get the heated and cooled cup holders with the console.
I did not. Thanks for the update with Pictures. I see that Door switch is different because it had adjustable pedals
 

rcr1978

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Apr 1, 2007
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Spring Creek, NV
Bumping this up to see if you got it put together and using the new turbo setup? I'm still procratinating on doing something with mine, still thinking about using a gated setup. The question I have is would you make more HP without a gate with the higher boost/drive pressure on the 76/68 turbine choking it above 3200rpm VS a gated housing reducing boost 10-15psi/with a lot less drive pressure. I guess I need to get off my ass and get the Gtech out and data log some 0-100mph times with the gate on my truck unplugged vs functional. I've noticed a big difference in drive pressure with it functional for sure just not sure on the HP.
 

Bdsankey

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Bumping this up to see if you got it put together and using the new turbo setup? I'm still procratinating on doing something with mine, still thinking about using a gated setup. The question I have is would you make more HP without a gate with the higher boost/drive pressure on the 76/68 turbine choking it above 3200rpm VS a gated housing reducing boost 10-15psi/with a lot less drive pressure. I guess I need to get off my ass and get the Gtech out and data log some 0-100mph times with the gate on my truck unplugged vs functional. I've noticed a big difference in drive pressure with it functional for sure just not sure on the HP.

I have not yet. The machine shop has had my engine parts since the last week of Feb. On the positive side, it sounds like they should have everything done sometime this week for me to pick up. With the kit I have, it is super easy to swap to the 80/73 turbine version S364.5 if I have to (I'd just reuse my compressor cover) but I am willing to sacrifice power upstairs RPM wise for the low end response/towing performance if drive pressure doesn't get too crazy (it'll be logged with my iDash). Realistically the ungated setup should make more power until it exceeds turbine efficiency which is where the gated housing would takeover. With my goals, I considered a gate but in the end I didn't want another item to fail/dial in.



As much as I say this truck will never sled pull, never run in a bracket class etc we all know it will (I'm secretly hoping to have my wife run it in bracket events as I think she genuinely would enjoy it and want to go to events more).