To much pigeon toe
- Thread starter quinton
- Start date
Traction bars with stock shocks. My rear end doesn't squat down on launches, it might be to stiff on the back.
If I try anything over 12psi it bounces immediately, up to 12psi it pulls left and only left and will start to bounce as boost increases off the line if I stay in the throttle up to say, the 60' mark. Usually I have to let out cause I'm counter steering to the right about 45* on the wheel and I'm not comfortable with that.
These are my angles. Stock height and keys, torsion bars as low as they go.
This is exactly how mine looked when I brought the truck in for the lift. At that time I could launch for all my set up was worth and and just go, and the truck would GO! Straight and smooth.
I'm running Cal-tracs, removed the overload, added a 2" deaver mini-pack, cognito spec bilstein 5100's and air bags usually set at 40psi for screwin around but I've tried em @ 100psi and f-d around with various cal-trac preload and had no luck thus far.
I gotta say, for daily driving purposes and towing, the truck rides and does everything it was supposed to so and should do, like a dream. When it comes time to drag; it's a drag-lol- it doesn't do what ya would want it to...
Like I said tho, before the lift was installed it was spot on, after the lift it's been a nightmare as far as how it should act for drag racing. And I've got other problems other than the pulling and wheel hop now as well. Like the front driveshaft vib, and it engages 4x4 rough and doesn't want to disengage smoothly either. I had the gears swapped out to 4.10's, the axles/carrier bearings rebuilt and even opted to use the cognito driveshaft with the lift to be as comprehensive about everything as possible, and it's not worked out well for me. I tried switching back to the stock 4x4 driveshaft and it's worse as far as engagement/disengagement, so I'm kinda stumped.
I know there's something messed up somewhere but I don't know where to start, I just hope the front axle was set up properly, I do believe and hope there's a way to make everything function properly.
I don't know what your lift kit came with, but if the bump stops you're referring to are the original factory parts, they aren't bump stops. They're jounce bumpers, and they are a designed part of the suspension. The truck is meant to ride against them. It adds a sort of progressive spring rate to the torsion bar.
Both of you guys need to get your front end down more so the tie rods are at better angles.
Yes, you're right Josh. They are the jounce bumpers located on the lower control arm, not the bump stops on the UCA. I wasn't aware that they were supposed to always be in contact, thank you for the insight. I will be removing the t-bar bolts once I get er goin again:thumb:
I think some of the issue is with the lift spindle. Mikes stock suspension truck shows the cv and tierod at pretty much the same angle but Cocoa and Quinton's is off. Almost like the tie rods not located high on the spindle...
that's a good call
yeah, the angles are slightly different between the c/v and tie rod with the aftermarket spindle. I even had mine mounted top side to try and keep them parallel but it wasn't enough, when it was stock it looked just like mikes does and I didn't have these issues. I would've never guessed that it would have such a negative attribute. still, I'm wondering if an upgraded centerlink might eliminate most the issue?
if I can't get it to launch right I may just be going back to stock spindles...
I thought that the heavier duty spindle would've been better, damn it sucks to learn the hard way, you'd think one day I'd stop doing it that way :rofl:
that's a good call
yeah, the angles are slightly different between the c/v and tie rod with the aftermarket spindle. I even had mine mounted top side to try and keep them parallel but it wasn't enough, when it was stock it looked just like mikes does and I didn't have these issues. I would've never guessed that it would have such a negative attribute. still, I'm wondering if an upgraded centerlink might eliminate most the issue?
if I can't get it to launch right I may just be going back to stock spindles...
I thought that the heavier duty spindle would've been better, damn it sucks to learn the hard way, you'd think one day I'd stop doing it that way :rofl:
I've got straight centerlink still have the problem.
I am thinking that the kryptonite kit will fix the issue since that's the only difference I have found on my buddies and mine. If you look at the kryptonite kit vs Ppe straight center link the kryptonite kit has the tie rods bolt in from underneath while the Ppe centerlink has the tie rods screw straight into them. That's at least 3 to 4 inches of difference don't y'all think?
it would be an expensive "attempt" at fixing it too only to find it wont make any difference
Start with those keys if they are not stock. I'm no drag racer, but if I had a nickel for every guy I saw at the pulls throw expensive parts at toe in issues that stemmed from a leveling key or not backing the torsion bars off.......I'd be a rich mofo.
with the kryptonite set up the tie rods have more leverage on the centerlink, compared to them bolting to the ends. I would think it would want to twist more than a ppe style one
X2. A better shock would put you much farther ahead as well
They do but since the leverage is cut in half of that of a stock centerlink, the Cognito supports can actually do their job and keep the centerlink solid. My exaxt kit is what that kit is based off of and all I have is a 1/2" billet support on my idler arm and it hold the centerlink perfectly still even under extreme circumstances. I actually replaced my pitman arm not long ago from too much in and out movement but it had 0 rocking motion in it. I was impressed
They also more closely resemble geometry of the factory center link....
I'm failing to see how its more leverage, but maybe I'm not looking from the right angle either.
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I was right the picture before made it look like my tie rods went up to centerlink. They don't they are negative a little.
It's hard to see but I'm looking at it right now and they are jut as negative as my CV's.
It's hard to see but I'm looking at it right now and they are jut as negative as my CV's.
As it's been said before. Your ride height doesn't mean squat because your front end is lifting. Gm's front end is shut for bump steer and your center link makes it worse. This means as your suspension drops out from ride height, it will toe in. There is 2" of tow change on a stock truck from full bump to full drop. That is horribly bad for 6" of wheel travel.
I would also bet you have more loose or moving than you think. That is nasty toe in and not even mine toes in that bad with worse bump steer and a little down angled cv/steering
I would also bet you have more loose or moving than you think. That is nasty toe in and not even mine toes in that bad with worse bump steer and a little down angled cv/steering