The "might as wells?'

calereeves

Displaced Texan
Jul 13, 2011
135
1
18
In the process of pulling the motor right now. I'm fairly site I roasted the #8 piston, but forensics will have to wait until it's on the ground.

I'm still undecided how much beefier I'm going to go with the replacement, but while the engine is out, what are the ancillary items I should go ahead and replace/upgrade?

The intercooler has raw oil dripping out, as does the entire exhaust. Should I replace or somehow clean the intercooler? Should I upgrade the charge tubing or radiator hoses or anything else that isn't worth doing normally, but while the engine is out, you just "might as well" replace/upgrade?
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
4,090
2
38
CT
How's the turbo?

Do the bottom end. Most other things you can do at any time. Manifold and uppipes if you want. Bolt the motor mounts.

Depends what the goal is.

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calereeves

Displaced Texan
Jul 13, 2011
135
1
18
Unsure about the turbo, other than the fact that liquid oil has run through it. Probably going with a 4094v anyway. I guess my goals are il-defined at the moment as well. Really depends on how bad the lower end is when I get it out.
 

calereeves

Displaced Texan
Jul 13, 2011
135
1
18
Perhaps, but if it did ruin the turbo is probably because piston pieces went through it. Sounds like a 2-stroke and shakes like crazy. Got "engine power reduced" when it started, then misfire on #8 code. Changed injector and still the same. Smokes like crazy too. But with raw oil down the pipe, it's no wonder.
 

motoking_1990

Active member
May 9, 2011
1,957
5
38
Terre Haute, IN
Perhaps, but if it did ruin the turbo is probably because piston pieces went through it. Sounds like a 2-stroke and shakes like crazy. Got "engine power reduced" when it started, then misfire on #8 code. Changed injector and still the same. Smokes like crazy too. But with raw oil down the pipe, it's no wonder.
Have you done a compression test on it yet?

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Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
4,433
0
0
In the process of pulling the motor right now. I'm fairly site I roasted the #8 piston, but forensics will have to wait until it's on the ground.

I'm still undecided how much beefier I'm going to go with the replacement, but while the engine is out, what are the ancillary items I should go ahead and replace/upgrade?

The intercooler has raw oil dripping out, as does the entire exhaust. Should I replace or somehow clean the intercooler? Should I upgrade the charge tubing or radiator hoses or anything else that isn't worth doing normally, but while the engine is out, you just "might as well" replace/upgrade?

You've been around for a while, what's done to it now?
What year truck?

You say you're probably going to a 4094...
Why?
What are your goals and what do you do with the truck now?

Yellow Chevy (member here) can tweak a stock turbo out pretty good
The DP Stg2 3794 is hands down a better option than a 4094

Even the DP VGT72 is a far better option than the 4094
I just wanna know "WHY"
???


As for the "might as well's"
Dude, its like a Walmart sized candy store of "might as well's" out there
:rofl:

How big is your wallet?
Tearing it down, machining and parts gets deep enough into the pocket book
 

Dmax87

Member
Dec 3, 2013
171
0
16
For cleaning the intercooler and pipes you can fill with hot water and degreaser Should take care of it. If not, you could send it out to a radiator shop.
 

calereeves

Displaced Texan
Jul 13, 2011
135
1
18
I didn't see a need to compression test it before I started pulling it out. The sound and the violent shaking was enough to tell me it was something at least somewhat catastrophic.

I've got the transmission and transfer case on the ground and finally have everything on the engine disconnected. I'm hoping to be able to pull it out tomorrow, assuming I can find a good spot to put a chain without having to take a bunch more off the top end.

As for plans...I started pulling it out with the express intention of a full build, up to my budget of around $15k. Thinking fingers pistons, carillos, studs, turbo, and injectors. But that leaves me no room for contingencies. I'm also considering buying the built long block in the garage sale, but I'm waiting until I find out what the real damage in mine is.

The truck is a daily driver, with very occaisional towing duty. I moved from Alaska to New Jersey, towing a 52' trailer at a touch over 31k CGVW. Made it through the mountains in AK and Canada, across the Rockies, and up and down Raton Pass. Motor gave way on flat ground in Texas. Truck has 130k miles, been tuned at 490rwhp since around 30k miles, and never had a hiccup. I figured 100k miles at that power level, and towing as heavy as I've sometimes towed (29k total weight from GA to AK, for instance) something was bound to turn loose one day. I was just lucky that I'd been setting aside for a performance build for a little while. I was hoping to continue saving for another couple of years and really go full-tilt, but such is life.

Now that I'm into the truck, I'm kind of going back and forth between the performance build, or a really mild, much cheaper engine rebuild and doing some aesthetic mods with the rest of the cash. I guess once i see what the real damage is tomorrow (hopefully) I'll finally make up my mind what I'm going to do with the engine and start ordering parts.


As for the 4094, honestly, the main reason I wanted to go with it is it's a drop in replacement, and--from what I remember a few years ago when I was really heavy into reading the forums for performance info--the 4094 was the hot ticket for a while.

I'm usually one to research something ad nauseum and build a solid plan before laying out the cash. This failure just accelerated my timeline and cut out my planning/research phase.
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
4,090
2
38
CT
Build the motor right and do air and fuel later.

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Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
4,433
0
0
The 72 is a BA charger, but isn't really a "towing charger"
Mark's purpose and design with the 72 was to be the most BA VVT ever used (and designed to be) in a twin kit, but it makes a pretty wicked big single VVT:thumb:

My money would be in a stg2 3794 or the stg2 68R, for the duties you're using the truck for

As for the build, $15k should do ya up right!
Rods, pistons, gaskets, bearings, machining and a turbo...that's gonna be close to 8-9k, right there. Fuel pump and injectors and some eye candy put you right where your budget is at and leave ya with a 700whp truck, ready for more air
 

calereeves

Displaced Texan
Jul 13, 2011
135
1
18
I finally got my engine out tonight, sitting on the ground. I'll get the head off for diagnosis tomorrow. Holy cow. I'm afraid getting it out was the easy part....

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Cknight199

New member
Aug 23, 2012
1,827
0
0
Salt Lake City, Utah
I finally got my engine out tonight, sitting on the ground. I'll get the head off for diagnosis tomorrow. Holy cow. I'm afraid getting it out was the easy part....

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Stripping a motor down to the short block does take time. Don't forget to look for the small Allen bolts that hold the head down (after head studs are taken off) as they are easy to miss and can make it impossible to get a the head off lol.


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Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Sep 25, 2010
1,308
2
38
33
Hagerstown MD
I finally got my engine out tonight, sitting on the ground. I'll get the head off for diagnosis tomorrow. Holy cow. I'm afraid getting it out was the easy part....

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It is. Lay everything out very orderly and put as many bolts back in the holes as you can! If you run into questions going together post up here. Some of us do this for a living
ed2346c5a3063ce624bb38172592f1b6.jpg
 

motoking_1990

Active member
May 9, 2011
1,957
5
38
Terre Haute, IN
It is. Lay everything out very orderly and put as many bolts back in the holes as you can! If you run into questions going together post up here. Some of us do this for a living
ed2346c5a3063ce624bb38172592f1b6.jpg
How much of a pita is it to pull the cab and front end like you did in the photos? Not the lifting part. Mainly the stuff to disconnect.

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Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Sep 25, 2010
1,308
2
38
33
Hagerstown MD
How much of a pita is it to pull the cab and front end like you did in the photos? Not the lifting part. Mainly the stuff to disconnect.

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Not too bad really, i only had about 3.5 hrs in it. The parts that sucks is you have to totally disassemble the fuse box so there is an absolute mess of wiring. I'm gonna pull the engine on the next one and see which way is easiest.
71de68b26a604ddd675201ed707eab98.jpg
 

motoking_1990

Active member
May 9, 2011
1,957
5
38
Terre Haute, IN
Not too bad really, i only had about 3.5 hrs in it. The parts that sucks is you have to totally disassemble the fuse box so there is an absolute mess of wiring. I'm gonna pull the engine on the next one and see which way is easiest.
71de68b26a604ddd675201ed707eab98.jpg
3.5 hours is bookin it. It would take me a day lol. I will stick to pulling engines I wouldn't want the wiring mess. You would think they would have bail connectors at the fuse box to make it easier. I can only imagine the nightmare of having to disassemble the whole box. I guess if you do it often it wouldn't be that bad. Reason I ask is because I want to restore my frame. Looks like I'm working around the cab.

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Bustedknuckles

Honey Badger
Sep 25, 2010
1,308
2
38
33
Hagerstown MD
3.5 hours is bookin it. It would take me a day lol. I will stick to pulling engines I wouldn't want the wiring mess. You would think they would have bail connectors at the fuse box to make it easier. I can only imagine the nightmare of having to disassemble the whole box. I guess if you do it often it wouldn't be that bad. Reason I ask is because I want to restore my frame. Looks like I'm working around the cab.

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I pull a lot of ford cabs so that helps. I i honestly thought it took me longer than that but i kept track of time and thats all it took! Yeah the fuse box and everything is gonna be fun to put back together!