Techangle=Huge Timer Saver

RKTMech

Idiot with a wrench
Aug 18, 2008
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The Norco's

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
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Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
Some folk put a dial indicator on rod bolts and "stretch" them a certain amount to determine proper tension. But that doesn't do anything that rotation-based torquing doesn't.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
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Some folk put a dial indicator on rod bolts and "stretch" them a certain amount to determine proper tension. But that doesn't do anything that rotation-based torquing doesn't.

Some people just dial the air impact back a couple of notches... :D
 

JD Dave

In way over my head
May 19, 2008
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Was searching Craigslist on the weekend and a 3/8" Snap-On Techangle was just posted for a $100. So I drove an hour to get it and it was in perfect shape with case and manual. What does it cost to get them re-calibrated?
 

durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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Dont know about the Techangle but I've always been told $60. Only wrench ive gotten calibrated was the dial type Torq-o-meter i got off ebay for $30.

They don't set the price, Snap-on does the calibration. Thats not to say they dont get a cut of it, and like anything if your a big customer there are always "breaks".

But for $100 for any size Techangle that is a very good price. The 1/2" one is over $500 and the 3/8" is just under $500 and the 1/4" is just over $400.
 

JD Dave

In way over my head
May 19, 2008
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Caledon, Ontario
Dont know about the Techangle but I've always been told $60. Only wrench ive gotten calibrated was the dial type Torq-o-meter i got off ebay for $30.

They don't set the price, Snap-on does the calibration. Thats not to say they dont get a cut of it, and like anything if your a big customer there are always "breaks".

But for $100 for any size Techangle that is a very good price. The 1/2" one is over $500 and the 3/8" is just under $500 and the 1/4" is just over $400.

I'm a nobody to the Snap-on guy and I just call him when I need something and he delivers it. Generally gives me 5% off which isn't much but oh well. I would like to have more Snap-on stuff but I just replace stuff as it's needed or if I really need something to do a job. The Snap-on truck is a dangerous place to walk into. $60 seems like a good deal to recalibrate, thanks for the info.
 

durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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I'm a nobody to the Snap-on guy and I just call him when I need something and he delivers it. Generally gives me 5% off which isn't much but oh well. I would like to have more Snap-on stuff but I just replace stuff as it's needed or if I really need something to do a job. The Snap-on truck is a dangerous place to walk into. $60 seems like a good deal to recalibrate, thanks for the info.

It can be dangerous, after awhile though you learn to control yourself lol. 5% off is a good deal. A lot of them sell at list price with weekly specials, and sometimes throw in a freebie here and there.

If you can walk off the truck spending under $100 you did good.
 

Leadfoot

Needs Bigger Tires!
Dec 27, 2006
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Some folk put a dial indicator on rod bolts and "stretch" them a certain amount to determine proper tension. But that doesn't do anything that rotation-based torquing doesn't.

The engine shop I use does that quite frequently.

From everything I've seen, a TTY is a much better fastening method when condition of threads is not known or is known to be less than ideal.

That being said, any critical fastening (even if utilizing a TTY bolt) should be done with threads that were cleaned by proper methods and done with specified lubrication. With proper threads, standard methods should provide uniform results.

I know in many commercial machine shops, cleaning threads properly is not something that is often done and damaged threads are sometimes hard to avoid, so I can see where torque to yeild is preferred (less concern on "prep", and reduces the margin of error when poor prep is done).

I know on high end race engines (Sassy being one shop that I know does it), ALL threads are checked (even something as mundane as an oil pan bolt).


One question though is as the article states, we have all reused head bolts in the past and have no issues, but they state TTY bolts are no different in metallurgy than the common head bolt (used years ago) so why the BIG concern all of a sudden? Technically all old fasteners were TTY, just we did not tighten them in the fashion we do now. I know when the LBZ's first came out and several had glowplug tips fall off, several trucks at my local shop were out of commission for several weeks as the TTY head bolts were backordered and there was the impression that the engine would be junk if the old ones were reused......

In the past, many used new bolts in high performance builds as metal fatique was a concern, but it was not because of the method used to tighten, but rather the number of times a fastener was torqued (no different than using a TTY fastening sequence). It was then found that in high performance applications (especially) high rpm motors, rod bolt stretch became a concern and a better quality bolt was needed. It was not due to the method used to tighten, but the metallurgy of the bolt.

Also, what is different metallurgically that makes an ARP bolt able to withstand multiple retorquings without fear of elastic failure?
 

durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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Im by no means an expert in metallurgy or torques etc.

But from what i have gathered talking to engine builders and such. As long as the bolt doesn't show any physical stretch from being pushed too far into the yeild zone, then you can re-use it. Its when they get stretched and do not spring back is when you need to throw them away. I was basically told to measure them against a new one and see what they were like. I was told by one builder that the rod bolts and main bolts can usually be reused once or twice.

The headbolts may be pushed further into the yeild zone on more occasions so it is always strongly reccomended to replace them. Or maybe its just because we've all grown up thinking we were supposed to. i think a big part of it is that you could maybe get away with reusing enough of the bolts, but they are $5 a piece and at that price, versus the cost of having to redo the job its just more economical for the dealership and GM to replace them. Better safe then sorry I guess. Just like enough of the gaskets will seal if reused but its not worth the risk.


i know arp says to measure their studs as you reuse them to determine when to replace them. I think its 0.0005" longer than when new means its out of service.
 

2146xj

New member
Jan 13, 2014
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I know this is an old thread, but at work we use TTY on our sprockets and hubs going into the finals on our tanks and M88's. The only reason we use them, or so I've been told is so that we use the strech to our advantage so that the friction it creates keeps the bolt torqued. We get taught for those bolts in particular to always use new bolts and never put anything on the threads ever. Those bolt don't even have lock washers on them, because we simply use the "thread stretch" to our advantage.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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i got to college, our college is a tech school and snap-on allows college students 50 percent off all tools. let me know what you guys would suggest for mechanics and stuff that we cannot live without
 

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
3,517
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Central OH
Kinda depends on what you'll be wrenching on.

If you're like me, I had a decent amount of hand tools already. I used the 50% off towards a tool box and a few nicer hand tools like wrenches and ratchets. Don't bother buying up specialty tools until you get a job somewhere.
 

Yngdmax92

Active member
Sep 26, 2013
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Well right now I work at a recycling yard, work on wheel loaders and excavators but do auto at the house.
 

durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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Personally I don't own a ton of snap on or any truck brand really.

You want to spend your money on some good ratchets. I like my Matco 88s much better than the snap on dual 80s but both are good. Thinner head on matco and different flex lock are the main differences. I like locking flex head ratchets. Some people like fixed head ratchets. For me 6" 1/4", 12" 3/8" and a big 24" 1/2" do the majority of my work. I have other ratchets too but those are my main ones. A 3/8 flex stubby is nice too.

Some people don't care, but I like nice wrenchs. Those are one thing I bought from snap on. My main hand wrenches, the ratcheting ones are all gear wrench. For the few bucks extra go flank drive plus.

The snap on boxes you can buy through the programs usually exclude the KRL and Epiq. IMO if your spending money for a snap on box, those are what you want or want to eventually move to. You can buy them used for a very good price so keep that in mind.

Don't forget you can go broke trying to save a nickel. Meaning don't spend all of your money just because of the discounts. While they are nice, there's tons of tools you can buy for a great price later on.


As for the Tech angles. I'm hopefully trading mine for the new style.
 

Porno Joe

Member
Oct 11, 2010
513
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South of Pittsburgh
Personally I don't own a ton of snap on or any truck brand really.

You want to spend your money on some good ratchets. I like my Matco 88s much better than the snap on dual 80s but both are good. Thinner head on matco and different flex lock are the main differences. I like locking flex head ratchets. Some people like fixed head ratchets. For me 6" 1/4", 12" 3/8" and a big 24" 1/2" do the majority of my work. I have other ratchets too but those are my main ones. A 3/8 flex stubby is nice too.

Some people don't care, but I like nice wrenchs. Those are one thing I bought from snap on. My main hand wrenches, the ratcheting ones are all gear wrench. For the few bucks extra go flank drive plus.

The snap on boxes you can buy through the programs usually exclude the KRL and Epiq. IMO if your spending money for a snap on box, those are what you want or want to eventually move to. You can buy them used for a very good price so keep that in mind.

Don't forget you can go broke trying to save a nickel. Meaning don't spend all of your money just because of the discounts. While they are nice, there's tons of tools you can buy for a great price later on.


As for the Tech angles. I'm hopefully trading mine for the new style.



whats the difference between the new/old style? other than it appears the handles changed colors?

I have fairly decent craftsman torque wrench, but was debating stepping up to a snap on before I do head studs
 

durallymax

New member
Apr 26, 2008
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That, they store torques and do a lot of other things. Most importantly to me they have a better handle design that doesn't like to shut off in the middle of torqueing.

Plus I got my 3/8 just before they switched to the fine tooth heads.
 

Porno Joe

Member
Oct 11, 2010
513
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South of Pittsburgh
That, they store torques and do a lot of other things. Most importantly to me they have a better handle design that doesn't like to shut off in the middle of torqueing.

Plus I got my 3/8 just before they switched to the fine tooth heads.

ah ok good to know. I might see if I can grab a newer snap on (at least the fine tooth) off ebay before I do my head studs. I don't torque much at all, but Im just really not impressed with my craftsman at all
 

Porno Joe

Member
Oct 11, 2010
513
0
16
South of Pittsburgh
I ended up getting a killer deal on a "used" snap on tech angle. its claimed to be used but honestly it looks brand new. its the newest style. I was really impressed when I took it out of the case. definitely a well built tool