It beeps furiously at you when you overload it which is 125lbs.
You need to go to the bigger 1/2" for the flywheel bolts. when doing angle but even then I dont know if it would hold up to that or not. Only thing you can do is try.
Techangle=Huge Timer Saver
- Thread starter durallymax
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It beeps furiously at you when you overload it which is 125lbs.
You need to go to the bigger 1/2" for the flywheel bolts. when doing angle but even then I dont know if it would hold up to that or not. Only thing you can do is try.
We have one of the older 3/8" digital Snap On torque only torque wrenches and a brand new 3/8" Tech Angle. They're nice but pricey. I'd like to have one of my own, but it's hard for me to justify the money no more than I use them on my own junk.
The 1/2 inch only torque to 250ft/lb, only had mine to 160 so far. Will find out soon how it handles DD flywheel bolts, gotta love a lifetime warranty!
Depending on how a torque wrench is constructed, putting a pipe on it usually will alter the readings. The pipe tries to bend just the end of the wrench. The looser the pipe fits over the handle, the greater the error.
$1200.
It would be nice to know if the 1/2" has enough capacity to do flywheel bolts or not. with the amount of force they take im thinking it wont, but somebody has to go and try it.
$1200 Thats way over priced! "but it says Snap-on on it" Our Snap-on guy is to lazy to get off the truck and walk around the shop to service his customers, I only buy from the guys that come buy and show some effort! If I need a special snaper only tool or warranty the internet and UPS get my business!
Then the 1/2 wont be able to do it, and we will still have to use the old school units
If you go over it's rated torque capacity, it gets pissed and buzzes/beeps constantly until you let up... if go to like 125% of it's rated capacity, it locks up until you either turn it off and on or remove the batteries (don't remember which). I found out with the balancer bolt...
For the flywheel, I used a regular breaker bar with half my jack handle and figured out the degrees based on the sides of the allen socket (each side is 60* from the next). Those things end up WAAAAY over 278ft/lb.
Yep as it turns out the 3/8 and 1/2 are going to be great for head bolts and engine internals only! But still a great time saver working in the vehicle!
Just tried using the 1/2" on a flywheel replacement im working on. Did the first 60* which happens to come out around 250lb-ft (kinda neat how it shows you the actual torque when you relax it). It consistently stopped me at 61 degrees everytime. Could be my slow reflexes. But I have noticed when using it that the beep triggers just before you reach your preset torque, to account for delayed reaction. Somedays when im on top of my game i stop a little soon.
I tried to go and do the next 60* and it made it 12* before it started vibrating and beeping that it was at its limit.
Out comes the trusty old Alligator clip angle gauge and 4' breaker bar. Which I guess will have to be used for these unless you want to shell out $1,200 for the 3/4" Model.
I wonder if you could use a torque multiplier and figure out the ratio to set the degrees?
The 1/2 still saved me a ton of time by being able to do the first angle step.
I tried to go and do the next 60* and it made it 12* before it started vibrating and beeping that it was at its limit.
Out comes the trusty old Alligator clip angle gauge and 4' breaker bar. Which I guess will have to be used for these unless you want to shell out $1,200 for the 3/4" Model.
I wonder if you could use a torque multiplier and figure out the ratio to set the degrees?
The 1/2 still saved me a ton of time by being able to do the first angle step.
The torque measurement is great, but the angle measurement is not reliably accurate. It does not measure movement of the bolt. It measures movement of the gyroscope chip in the handle once it reaches a certain torque (to allow for ratcheting I assume). That torque point at where it starts measuring can be above or below the amount of torque it actually takes to rotate the bolt. I've had it be off by as much as 20-30 degrees. Also, sockets, extensions, the metal in the wrench handle all deflect and twist when under torque. Does the computer chip in the handle know when the socket, extension, or wrench shaft is deflecting/twisting vs when the bolt is actually moving? No it doesn't.
I am definitely not the sharpest tool in the shed but the angle portion of tightening the bolt has nothing to do with torque, and you seem to get a little lost in your thoughts. How can you have faith in one part of the electronics and not the other? Both have been equally tested and used.
Retort?
I'm assuming Torque to Yield bolts (measured by angle) takes the "friction" of the threads out of the equation.
If you thread a rusty bolt into a rusty hole and torque to X, it will be a different clamping force than torquing a clean bolt into clean threads to the same X value. Going by equal angle helps assure each bolt is tightened more evenly, if I'm thinking about this right. One bolt could be torqued to 350ft/lbs and the other to 270ft/lbs but they are both "clamping" the same as the head of each bolt is equal distance from the mating surface on simetrical parts.
My only issue is if there is a "base torque" before the angle, then if there is a descrepancy there (rusty bolts, mangled threads, etc), it will also be in the final torque.....correct?
If that's the case, why not clean the threads in the mating surface (since new bolts are used anyways when torquing to yeild) and use a simple torque value?
Edit: Assuming clean threads, symetrical surfaces, same torque, and identical bolt material, each bolt should yeild the same....or am I missing something?
If you thread a rusty bolt into a rusty hole and torque to X, it will be a different clamping force than torquing a clean bolt into clean threads to the same X value. Going by equal angle helps assure each bolt is tightened more evenly, if I'm thinking about this right. One bolt could be torqued to 350ft/lbs and the other to 270ft/lbs but they are both "clamping" the same as the head of each bolt is equal distance from the mating surface on simetrical parts.
My only issue is if there is a "base torque" before the angle, then if there is a descrepancy there (rusty bolts, mangled threads, etc), it will also be in the final torque.....correct?
If that's the case, why not clean the threads in the mating surface (since new bolts are used anyways when torquing to yeild) and use a simple torque value?
Edit: Assuming clean threads, symetrical surfaces, same torque, and identical bolt material, each bolt should yeild the same....or am I missing something?