Stripped Oil Drain Plug Head

2007LBZ

2007LBZ

Piston Melter
Feb 18, 2017
17
0
1
TN
Well, I went to change the oil for the first time since I purchased my LBZ, lo and behold the last idiot to change the oil apparently used an impact to put the plug back in.

I've tried a few things to get the plug off with no luck so far. When I tried using an impact to get it off, it just rounded the head. Then I tried using a pipe wrench with a cheater bar, and all it did was mangle the head even more without budging. The truck had been running for a while before both times, so the oil pan was still pretty hot. I've got some bolt extractor sockets ordered to try as a last ditch effort... any other suggestions? I figure if the bolt extractors don't work I'll try an EZ out, if that doesn't work I can't think of anything else short of swapping the pan.

I thought about using a torch to heat up the bolt some before trying the extractors, but I'm afraid it may just soften up the head of the bolt more and mangle it even worse.

I'm starting to think that this is a really good excuse to order the PPE oil pan.
 
Budneeds2beers

Budneeds2beers

Aka Mike Honcho....
Aug 25, 2016
497
4
18
Cali
Holy **** man, its a drain pan plug.
I like how you called the previous oilers an idiot for using an impact to set the plug and then you used one to try and remove the plug. The impact properly seated with the right socket should have ripped the plug out or the crush nut/sleeve out. Im sorry this is happening to you, but this is a face palm!


Ok if you changed the oil and have no leaks? Then leave it and run the SOB!
Next oil change have a fresh pan/plug ready. Drill a drain hole to empty the pan and remove the pan. Install new pan/plug and BOOM problem solved...... it gives you 10k to save 225 for a new deep pan kit.
 
Awenta

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
4,090
2
38
CT
Torch and see if it goes or just drop the pan and drill it out and rethread or replace the pan.

Budneeds2beers said:
Holy **** man, its a drain pan plug.
I like how you called the previous oilers an idiot for using an impact to set the plug and then you used one to try and remove the plug. The impact properly seated with the right socket should have ripped the plug out or the crush nut/sleeve out. Im sorry this is happening to you, but this is a face palm!


Ok if you changed the oil and have no leaks? Then leave it and run the SOB!
Next oil change have a fresh pan/plug ready. Drill a drain hole to empty the pan and remove the pan. Install new pan/plug and BOOM problem solved...... it gives you 10k to save 225 for a new deep pan kit.
Click to expand...



How could he change the oil without getting the plug out? That's his entire problem here.


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OregonDMAX

OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
3,964
8
38
36
Goodyear, AZ
I've gotten some of the worst jiffy ****s jobs in and I've always been able to break it free with a hammer and chisel. If that doesn't work then the threads are also stripped or you are doing it wrong. I've had to break one free with an air chisel before but it's definitely possible.
 
LbZzF6RCLB

LbZzF6RCLB

New member
Feb 4, 2015
39
0
0
Butler Pa
Drill a hole in the plug itself about half of the plugs diameter. Then take them ez outs you mentioned and remove the plug. New plug > new oil pan X2 hammer and punch.
 
Budneeds2beers

Budneeds2beers

Aka Mike Honcho....
Aug 25, 2016
497
4
18
Cali
Your right. I dont know why i was thinking it was changed....
To the OP try to stay away from easy outs. If you cant get it with any of the previous tools then you will only make your problem worse when you break one off. Even if you get the plug out that sleeve/bung is shot. Its probably cross threaded and wont seal again.
Hmmmm if you know anyone who works on boats ask if they have an oil extractor. They are $90 at the local auto parts store. It will buy you time till you get a new pan/plug.

Sorry guys its stuff like this that bugs me. Its an oil change. Its mechanical 101 in my eyes and to remove a frozen anything is on the same level. I know you didnt cause this issue for yourself and i cant understand why people cant build/repair shit right. So as i re-read this i let my frustration get the best of me. So for that im sorry.
 
LbZzF6RCLB

LbZzF6RCLB

New member
Feb 4, 2015
39
0
0
Butler Pa
To the OP try to stay away from easy outs. If you cant get it with any of the previous tools then you will only make your problem worse when you break one off. Even if you get the plug out that sleeve/bung is shot. Its probably cross threaded and wont seal again.

I feel ya :hug:
 
WolfLMM

WolfLMM

Making Chips
Nov 21, 2006
4,005
26
48
38
AL
Yah you will need a tap to straighten the threads up when you get her out.

Hammer and punch!
 
2007LBZ

2007LBZ

Piston Melter
Feb 18, 2017
17
0
1
TN
OregonDMAX said:
I've gotten some of the worst jiffy ****s jobs in and I've always been able to break it free with a hammer and chisel. If that doesn't work then the threads are also stripped or you are doing it wrong. I've had to break one free with an air chisel before but it's definitely possible.
Click to expand...

Hammer and punch / chisel or the air chisel will be what I try next.

I've removed bolts with stripped heads plenty of times but this one just won't let loose. Usually the pipe wrench does the trick no problem. If I had to guess I'd say this one got cross threaded and had the shit torqued out of it.

Is 13mm the OEM drain plug size? It seems awfully small to me, other vehicles I've had didn't have such a small drain plug head.
 
zf>allison

zf>allison

you never had your car.
Apr 30, 2013
3,394
0
36
elsberry mo
If you have any welding skills, I always take a big washer that the center hole of the washer is just smaller than the stuck bolt head. Weld the washer to the bolt head. Then weld a bigger nut to the washer and use a ratchet or wrench or whatever on that nut.

Welding a nut straight to the stuck piece usually fails for me because the nut is deep and you don't get alot of penatration on the stuck bolt. With a washer you can easily plug weld the washer to the stuck bolt. Then the nut you can weld to the washer is usually big enough to weld inside of and get it to stick. Or you can use another small nut on top of the washer and weld around the outside of it, just leave yourself room to get a socket or ratchet on. I don't think this has ever failed me.
 
ALLY Fox

ALLY Fox

Old Man Truck
Dec 14, 2010
434
0
0
Oregon 7S5
When you get it out, replace the drain plug with a Fumoto valve-if there's anything left of the threads... Also, find out who changed the oil and make sure you NEVER take it back there!!
 
B

Blackmax123

Member
Aug 2, 2014
683
1
18
central Pennsylvania
Awenta said:
Torch and see if it goes or just drop the pan and drill it out and rethread or replace the pan.





How could he change the oil without getting the plug out? That's his entire problem here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Heck could change the oil without removing the plug if he uses an oil evacaution pump. Something similar to the Mityvac 7201. He can use the small tube to pull the oil up through the drip stick tube.

Those pumps are great for changing lawn mower oil, or oil filters/filter filters that sit down in the engine or housing like 6.4 filters. You can suck up the oil or fuel that lays in the bottom of the housings.
 
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