Stereo ???'s
- Thread starter hondarider552
- Start date
Is it a crewcab? What year? If done correctly you need 2 amps, 2 caps and the electrical system will just hold it. I'm running components in the front (6.5 speaker and tweeter in pillar) with a true 150 to 200 watts to each speaker depending on gain level. Rear 2 ways are off the head unit. And 1400 watts to 2 kicker 10" subs behind the seat. Ill take the pepsi challenge against anyone on sound quality with the set up. Amps and caps hide under the rear seat behind driver seat. No need for multiple batteries. I've built a lot of sound systems if you have a question email and ill try to help.
We just went over this the other night when you were at my place man, you have a clarion deck....which is why you have a clarion nav receiver under the back seat. Just swing by my house and I will look it all over and tell you what you need bro:thumbup: I have installed a ton of systems in these trucks
Tiz a crew cab. It had 3 batteries due to the twins. Idk why 3 since one will start the truck but I guess all the aftermarket electrical stuff needed the power.
coulda sworn you said pioneer head unit. Damn I dont remember crap lol. Will stop by maybe next weekend.
Lift the amp rack and lets see whats goin on under there? I only see that huge 4ga wire goin in under the rack?
Looks like the RF amp is (or at least should be!) for the clarion door speakers. The stats on the amp you posted are perfect for the door speakers. You need a powerful mono chanel amp for your sub, bridgeable and stable down to 2 ohm's minimum (1 ohm is awesome but really expensive) and a digital amp will save you serious space
EDIT
Actually lol i think that is the seat frame im seeing... but i only see one power coming out from under the amp rack being used by the RF amp, and those taped wires look like sub leads? Or power for a sub amp? Still need to see under the rack.
Looks like the RF amp is (or at least should be!) for the clarion door speakers. The stats on the amp you posted are perfect for the door speakers. You need a powerful mono chanel amp for your sub, bridgeable and stable down to 2 ohm's minimum (1 ohm is awesome but really expensive) and a digital amp will save you serious space
EDIT
Actually lol i think that is the seat frame im seeing... but i only see one power coming out from under the amp rack being used by the RF amp, and those taped wires look like sub leads? Or power for a sub amp? Still need to see under the rack.
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Brian i have the Kenwood amp that was in my truck when i bought it from you. It is a monoblock amp 2 ohm stable and would be perfect for a single sub setup or 2 10s or 2 12s. Hit me up if ya want to use it.:thumb:
Like was said I would gut what you have and start over. Remember you radio might say 45x4, that's like believing mpg on the window sticker. Head unit is 22 per channel depending on amps it varies what you have don't buy crap stuff. Jose stereo selling a special 1000 watt amp for 200 is not that. For your subs mono block that can be 1 ohm stable. Don't run 1 ohm. Rockford fosgate has a good info section. Watts on speakers doesn't mean louder. Tweeters are overrated. You can build a trophy sound system with just front speakers and subs. My blah blah blah. Pull your stuff apart and let's start over
well if it was me id make sure wiring was ok, then put in a amp and sub and call it good. my rc sounds decent with my doors powered from deck, and the amp and sub:thumb:
It ain't the cats meow or even close but this little cheap setup cost me 300 total and it sounds killer and fits perfectly under my EC/SB seat. Kicker 10" solo baric L5 speaker in ported box.
Nice set up clean, that is cool and you like the sound that's cool. Best deal I found for legit stuff is I believe sonic electronic. It might have x's instead of c's. if anyone in driving distance to Ontario ca I have a buddy who builds custom stereos, dashes etc. put a I pad in a ford excursion for a head unit and worked on all that Italian crap. Best in business and undercharges for his work
Thanks man. I know there's waaay better out there. My truck has been broken into before so I wanted something decent but wouldn't break my heart one day if it was gone. I still use the stock deck so as not to attract attention lol. It really does sound better than you might think:thumb:
Reses (spelled wrong). Counter sink the radio. Take the stock am/fm remove the face then build a bracket. Magnets work awesome. Also never play radio loud in parking lots. Hoods or your street Someone always. Ready to steal
Lol im also sure I wont be ripping whats in it now out to start over... Mind as well rip out the 550 sq ft of dynamat too
Leave the dynomat alone gut the stereo speakers amps etc and label wires. Get a d batt and pop ur speakers ( pos speak wire to batt ) they should suck in when you do this if I remember. Just come over with great beer I'd do it for fun. You have to pull it all a lot of guys sell trucks that had stereos but pull amps and replace with cheap shit (( I did on a trade in). Never buy used unless from a autophile Like I said b4 I almost bet I have the best sounding 05lly crew anywhere
The best bang for your buck is gonna be a Memphis digital sub amp (they are tiny) and a Memphis DVC 10" sub. I use Memphis products almost daily in my customers yachts and runabouts and have never had any issues after the install. In addition to the fact that they put out quality constructed products they hold their own when compared to JL Audio (best in the biz) the difference is neglegable to say the least. I have had one of these setups for 4 yrs now and still love it. If you would like some PROFESSIONAL advise on this install feel free to PM, I can walk you thru it in no time...
I wouldn't ask any advice from someone who thinks that jl audio is the "best in the biz". While they are pretty good they are far from the best.