Sound coming from airbox.

Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Well here goes fixing my last leak. I knew it was gonna be one of the damn gaskets shifting on me. Posting this in case it can help someone in the future.

Red circle is residual oil on the drain pipe that tells me the leak is coming from the top gasket and not the lower, and the arrow is pointing to the gasket that's completely out of place.

Image quality sucks cause im taking pictures of the camera screen.
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Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Well good news and bad news... good news is that I dont have a motor with low compression on all cylinders...

The bad news is that I have a motor with 400-410 psi of compression on all cylinders except for number 7 that has 300.....

How bad am I screwed? Am I in bent valve or cracked piston territory??



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2004LB7

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lifting injector may cause a loss of compression too. could also be a bentor hung valve causing the compression coming back out the intake lowing compression. id check the easy stuff first by pulling the valve covers before assuming the worst.

since you don't have much blow by I'd guess that you don't have a cracked piston
 

Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Well, I believe I have reached the end of the hope road here. I now have blow by that wasn't there before tear down, and was not there when I first fired up the truck. I started the truck back up after fixing the oil drain line leak and after about 2 minutes of running it started blowing smoke out the PCV outlet by the oil pan, popped open the oil cap and this is what I got.


Now I would just like to know how.... anyone ever seen something like this before?



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Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Oof, that sure does look like a cracked piston. That really sucks man, sorry to see it.

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Thats what I figured, but what I dont get is how does an engine just develop a cracked piston while idling??

I went back and found the blow by test from when I first bought the truck and it 100% did not have that. And all I've done since I did the top end is idle it, and when it first fired up it wasnt doing this. So my question is, how did this develop? Never seen anything like it.

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Bdsankey

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Ooooffff, that sure looks like cracked piston blow-by to me. How it developed it at idle is certainly an unknown. It wasn't doing it on your first test drive was it? How hard did you get on it during the test drive?
 
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Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Ooooffff, that sure looks like cracked piston blow-by to me. How it developed it at idle is certainly an unknown. It wasn't doing it on your first test drive was it? How hard did you get on it during the test drive?
Not hard at all. I'm not one to finish installing new parts and dog it without allowing some settling time first. I just cruised around the block and came right back in cause I noticed the oil leak from the drain line. Didn't even do more than like 45 mph.

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Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Time to take the heads back off. Start with #7 side.
Yeah I figured. Whatever is in there is gonna absolutely suck. So before I go do that I'm gonna take a break from this truck and finish my two Jeep projects. Gonna probably sell those to recoup some coin to help out with the crap show in #7.

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Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Figured I'd come back and update this thread with my findings for anyone else that happens to be in this predicament.

I ended up tearing back into the truck and found that my brand new SoCal Diesel injector hold down on cylinder 7 had snapped clean in half.

The injector had lifted and was allowing combustion gas into the valve cover area and from there it was going down to the crank and out the oil fill tube and PCV pipe making it look very similar to cylinder blow-by.

Reached out to the vendor from this forum that I've been using and SoCal's fix was to send me a replacement for the one broken hold down.

Replaced the snapped hold down and on my next start-up the same thing happened all over again, but this time on cylinder 2. Starts up fine, then it starts making a tapping noise, and then the smoke starts. When I compression test the cylinder it ends up being low but not dead.

We reached out to SoCal again and this time they sent an entire new set of hold downs.

I tore into the driver's side and replaced the entire bank with the new set, in the process also finding that the #6 hold down had also snapped but was still being held by the nut.

I compression-tested the entire engine again and all cylinders were 400-410. Including those with the 3 remaining hold downs from the first batch on the passenger side.

I figured I'd give the engine a crank before tearing back into the passenger side to replace the remaining, just to see if it would run fine with the 5/8 I had replaced. Sure enough, nope. Ran fine, then tapping, then smoke. Cylinder #3 was down to 250 lbs.

At that point, whatever, I was gonna replace those anyway, so I tore back into the passenger side and replaced that entire bank with the new set.

Here's the really frustrating part.... I compression tested before start last night. Once again, all cylinders were at 400-410... cranked it, started it.... and the same thing is happening all over again. Tapping noise, then smoke, and now cylinders 7 has 300 lbs and cylinder 6 has 210 lbs.

I am to my wit's end with these damn hold downs right now. I started thinking that maybe my torque wrench was off and was over torquing, so I tested all three of my torque wrenches against each other and all came to the same reading, including a Snap-On wrench, and two digitals. Three torque wrenches cant be wrong to the same exact reading.

So here I am...2 and a half times into an injector job on an LB7 due to faulty injector hold downs, and with a third time still to go.

Currently I'm waiting to hear back from my vendor on what's gonna happen from here. At this point, I just want SoCal to give me my money back so I can go get a billet hold down set from Industrial Injection and be done with this.

Picture is from batch 1's # 7, 2, 6, and 3.

Probably gonna work on tearing down again this weekend and I'll update if I'm wrong about the new batch, but with identical symptoms and sequence of events I highly doubt it.
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Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Didn't I tell you it was lifting injector(s)?

What's wrong with stock hold down being that you are having trouble with those?
Indeed you did....really wish I woulda listened to you too. I trusted the SCD name and the fact that I had billet hold downs and listened to others, including a local shop, beating the cracked-piston drum.

Now I have an LB7 pull-out sitting in my garage for no damn reason, but that's my own fault for assuming. I should've torn back into it before jumping the gun and buying a motor.

When I bought the truck it had lifted injector issues. That's the picture on the first post in this thread. I was told that the factory hold downs suck, hence why I went billet. The stock ones are sitting in the garage somewhere. Since I also plan on upping power in the future, I figured going billet was a smart choice.

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2004LB7

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Any chance you where missing the little disc / spacer that goes under the hold down?
 

Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Any chance you where missing the little disc / spacer that goes under the hold down?
Nah, I know those are all there because I've seen them every time I've had the valve covers off.

And even if one had somehow come off and I hadn't noticed, that would explain maybe one hold down constantly breaking, but I'm having this issue over all cylinders.

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1FastBrick

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Didn't some one else have a similar issue recently with SCD billet hold downs and the torque Value was not correct on the package???
 

Delta.Speed

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Mar 26, 2022
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Didn't some one else have a similar issue recently with SCD billet hold downs and the torque Value was not correct on the package???
The kit says to torque them down to 55 ft lbs. Factory value is 37 ft lbs.

I torqued it to the 55 spec because the kit also comes with a stud and nut set also. I dont remember for sure if they came in ARP packaging, but I think they did cause the grease is also ARP.
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