signs of headgaskets gone bad?????

[BUST'EM 504]

I was just wandering what some of the signs are before I start freaking out. I got a low coolant message about 2 weeks ago I filled it up havent gotten the message again but I am still worried the coolant looks like its getting low again
I ran the truck tonight and I am going to check the upper hose and see if the system is pressurized. What are some other tell tale signs

 

[JoshH]

Black junk in the coolant tank is usually a pretty good sign of a blown HG.

 

[BUST'EM 504]

so it should be pretty visible right
sorry about the questions just want to make sure
thanks

 

[RENODMAX]

A compression test is the best way to do it. Go get a kit from harbor freight if you dont have one. And as Josh said black coolant tank, and white smoke are other signs. Compression test is most definitive for sure. Pull all the glow plugs (have to pull steering shaft on driver side) put a battery charger on and pull the ignition relay. Crank until gauge stops moving and write all the numbers down. Differences between the numbers will tell you what cylinder is low if any.

 

[sweetdiesel]

I also like p- testing the coolant sytem over night

pump the coolant tank up to 15 -20 psi and check it in the morning, pull the Gp and crank it over and check for coolant. Be carefull doing this!!!!

This will also tell you what side is leaking. Prob the driver side cause it's longer to do lol

 

[JoshH]

I also like p- testing the coolant sytem over night

pump the coolant tank up to 15 -20 psi and check it in the morning, pull the Gp and crank it over and check for coolant. Be carefull doing this!!!!

This will also tell you what side is leaking. Prob the driver side cause it's longer to do lol

x2 on pressure testing. I have had a lot of good luck with that. The times I've done it it usually takes less than an hour to show signs of leaking though.

 

[whitetrash21]

When you guys do HG's, how long does it take you?? Anything that can be done to make the job easier???

 

[sweetdiesel]

Wes it all depends? I am not a good person to ask as my bolts are all new and most of the shit is out of the way!

Ted and I had both heads off Abby in just over 4 hrs. And we where not even going fast. A stock truck is different they have all these brackets and fuel lines and crap.... I hate workin on stockers

 

[sweetdiesel]

x2 on pressure testing. I have had a lot of good luck with that. The times I've done it it usually takes less than an hour to show signs of leaking though.

I agree Josh just like to leave it overnight and make sure you don't need both sides( got burnt that way) live and learn

 

[JoshH]

I agree Josh just like to leave it overnight and make sure you don't need both sides( got burnt that way) live and learn

Good advice. Better safe than sorry.

Wes, the last time I pulled a head with the engine in the truck, it took me about 4 hours to get it out. It was a passenger's side head, so it was a little less work. It was still a PITA but not too bad. The hardest part was working around some of the hard lines and getting the bottom back cross bridge bolts (the one that goes into the passenger's side head is the most difficult, IMO).

 

[whitetrash21]

Good advice. Better safe than sorry.

Wes, the last time I pulled a head with the engine in the truck, it took me about 4 hours to get it out. It was a passenger's side head, so it was a little less work. It was still a PITA but not too bad. The hardest part was working around some of the hard lines and getting the bottom back cross bridge bolts (the one that goes into the passenger's side head is the most difficult, IMO).

I'm doing it in the truck too. Figured I'd ask if anybody knew of a trick or two that might save time. I know what Simon's saying about all the brackets and crap that have to get pulled. Are you reffering to fuel hard lines?? What all can be left on the motor??

Done head gaskets a few times, never on a diesel before. So much more crap to get out of the way before pulling the heads.

 

[JoshH]

I'm doing it in the truck too. Figured I'd ask if anybody knew of a trick or two that might save time. I know what Simon's saying about all the brackets and crap that have to get pulled. Are you reffering to fuel hard lines?? What all can be left on the motor??

Done head gaskets a few times, never on a diesel before. So much more crap to get out of the way before pulling the heads.

Do you know which side you need to do, or are you doing both? I was talking about fuel (low and high pressure) and coolant lines. I was able to work around them, but it was kind of a pain. I can't think of any tips or tricks other than take your time and be patient.

 

[whitetrash21]

Gonna do both. Do studs at the same time.... might as well. Thanks, I was just wondering since this is the first time i've gone this far into a duramax.

 

[DetailsUnlimited]

Would a bad water pump cause this problem. Just found a coolant leak on the bottom big hose under the water pump.

 

[durallymax]

Would a bad water pump cause this problem. Just found a coolant leak on the bottom big hose under the water pump.

Very good chance that is the water pump pissing out of the weep hole.

Ive started to see a lot of trucks leaking out of the rubber hose for the turbo coolant return line. This hose is right behind the fan pulley. Ive had a few peopel bring their trucks to me saying the water pump is bad only to find out its a 2" piece of hose.

As for HGs X2 on pressurizing the cooling system. You can get really cheap kits from harbor freight.

Another invaluable tool ive found is the uv leak test kits. Our farms 02 LB7 was loosing coolant but couldnt find it. With the leak test kit i found both HGs leaking externally in back.

These kits are about $60 from napa. Their basically a high powered UV light, some fancy yellow CSI glasses and then the bottles of UV dye are about $6 each.

When i do HGs I pull the cab simply because it makes life easier. Im a believer in taking an extra hour to make things more easily access. I believe that being more comfortable and having a better view of things means less chances for screw ups. Especially if you are using the torque to yeild head bolts.

But if you dont have a lift, you can do them in the truck too. I would say to give your self a good weekend to do both sides since it will be your first time and its important to take it slow and double check yourself.

There is a lot of junk in the way, but its pretty straightforward if you have a decent mechanical knowledge.

 

[HogAssWild]

I got a buddy lb7 that is just shootin coolant out the overflow on the tank....what kind of problems is he looking at...

This truck leaks everykind of fluid in it lol

 

[Smokin LB7]

what all is involved in lifting the cab. I feel like that would be easier than pulling the motor out. I realize you don't HAVE to do either, but I agree with you. The more comfortable you, the more likely you are to take your time.

Very good chance that is the water pump pissing out of the weep hole.

Ive started to see a lot of trucks leaking out of the rubber hose for the turbo coolant return line. This hose is right behind the fan pulley. Ive had a few peopel bring their trucks to me saying the water pump is bad only to find out its a 2" piece of hose.

As for HGs X2 on pressurizing the cooling system. You can get really cheap kits from harbor freight.

Another invaluable tool ive found is the uv leak test kits. Our farms 02 LB7 was loosing coolant but couldnt find it. With the leak test kit i found both HGs leaking externally in back.

These kits are about $60 from napa. Their basically a high powered UV light, some fancy yellow CSI glasses and then the bottles of UV dye are about $6 each.

When i do HGs I pull the cab simply because it makes life easier. Im a believer in taking an extra hour to make things more easily access. I believe that being more comfortable and having a better view of things means less chances for screw ups. Especially if you are using the torque to yeild head bolts.

But if you dont have a lift, you can do them in the truck too. I would say to give your self a good weekend to do both sides since it will be your first time and its important to take it slow and double check yourself.

There is a lot of junk in the way, but its pretty straightforward if you have a decent mechanical knowledge.

 

[Smokin LB7]

I got a buddy lb7 that is just shootin coolant out the overflow on the tank....what kind of problems is he looking at...

This truck leaks everykind of fluid in it lol

Definitely head gaskets. Especially if it's an 01.

 

[durallymax]

what all is involved in lifting the cab. I feel like that would be easier than pulling the motor out. I realize you don't HAVE to do either, but I agree with you. The more comfortable you, the more likely you are to take your time.

Ive done it both ways and cab is definately quicker and easier.

The jist of it is disconnecting everything from the radiator, intercooler and transmission coolers. Not the A/C though, that will go in the air with the cab. But the compressor does need to be unbolted and rested on the battery. Then there is a few wires that connect to the motor that need to be unhooked, and the rest of the wires just simply need to be unhooked from the fuse box area. Remove that big plastic cover off of it and you will poop your pants at the amount of wires in there but dont worry most of them will only fit back in one place. Not all of them need to be unhooked just some of them.

The steering shaft, shift linkage and parking brake linkage also need to be disconnected as well as the powersteering and brake lines. Then its a few bolts and its up in the air. Theres a few other things Im missing but you should get this jist of the idea. Takes about 2 hours give or take.

 

[JoshH]

Gonna do both. Do studs at the same time.... might as well. Thanks, I was just wondering since this is the first time i've gone this far into a duramax.

If you're doing both heads and head studs, it would probably be easier to pull the motor, or if you have a lift, lift the cab like Vinny said. I've never done it that way, but I can see where it would be quicker. I think it would be easier to work on the motor with it on a stand rather than in the frame of the truck though.