Hello, newbie here, dont start thrown rocks, but im a cummins man, and I did some trading and got an 01 gmc dmax, it has a head gasket issue, Ive already started the tear down on the truck, I was told it was easyest to pull the motor to do the head gaskets,( i have an zf6). What should I do, do it in the truck or pull it???? Also I have priced my parts out at my local gm dealer and was wondering should I go after market on the head gaskets? Im going ahead an putting arp studs in it.
Should I pull the motor???????
- Thread starter DieselBoy02
- Start date
I've done them in the truck. If I was doing it again i would pull the motor out. Not a doubt in my mind that it would be worth it to pull the motor to do the head gaskets.
I would go with the GM gaskets as well. I think the general consensus is that they are the best quality ones.
Once you get the heads off, get them checked... if they need any machining make sure you know how much they machined off. Then based on whatever type of gaskets you pull out you can put the proper thickness back in. there are 3 general types, A, B and C. A is the thinnest. You can find out which ones you have by looking at the tabs that hang off the side of the gasket.
I would go with the GM gaskets as well. I think the general consensus is that they are the best quality ones.
Once you get the heads off, get them checked... if they need any machining make sure you know how much they machined off. Then based on whatever type of gaskets you pull out you can put the proper thickness back in. there are 3 general types, A, B and C. A is the thinnest. You can find out which ones you have by looking at the tabs that hang off the side of the gasket.
another question i have, I dont know alot of the past on this truck, I know it has some mods, efi live, Garret BB charger and a few more things, should I go ahead and put a set of LBZ rods in it while its down. Also should I do anything else while the motor is out? It has 156k on it.
LBZ rod's would be a little better, but if finances allow I would spend the money on some quality aftermarket rod's, carrilo's, R&R, Howards, etc..
I have done some reading on the aftermaket ones, but I really cant handle payin 2k plus for rods, Id like to put something in the bottom end that will handle that charger and the fueling, I would like to sled pull the truck at a couple of pulls, but I have my other truck I sled pull with.......
def pull the motor for head gaskets... i am doing an lb7 soon that will probly be getting lbz rods
I hear ya, 2700.00+ is alot of money for rods
If you plan on keeping it under 600rwhp the LBZ rods should hold with proper tuning, or so I have read Good luck on the build:thumb:If you dont mind, can you tell me if lbz rods will hold, 71mm garret BB charger, efi live, the highest setting is a 250, by the way it runs, I think its had either some cp3 work or maybe injectors. Will lbz rods hold up???? like I said I would like to pull it a couple of times, mostley just a dailey driver for now. I hate to say it but I doubt if ill keep the truck all that long. I just to trade daily driver trucks about every year, I put alot of miles on them.....
Its a crap shoot on "Wether it will hold or not" To many variables to say for sure. I will let some one else chime in that has actual experience with LBZ rod's instead of mis-leading you with what I think will hold.
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lbz rods... you will be playing with fire and it all depends on the tuning and what day of the week the rods were manufactured.
It's not so much the fender as it is the driver's side firewall. The 2468 head is further back, and the brakes and steering make it clumsy to boot.
A single "stock disp" CP3 is not normally going to generate enough torque to bend rods.
Dual CP3's or a big CP3 with a big charger usually will.
Check prices with SoCal Diesel for head gaskets and other components as well, you might save money over what GM charges.
Here's the problem you are going to run into, I'll use myself as an example, but I'm not unique:
I wanted my Duramax to tow a bit better, so I put on an exhaust and 50HP tune.
I liked it! If I would have stopped there, my kids would be going to Harvard instead of community college.
But I didn't. I ran a 100HP tune, and liked it better.
Now I needed a built trans.
Then I started stacking and tried a "small" shot of nitrous.
Then when Kat sold her minivan, we bought a second Dmax. This one we were going to use for the business and my daily driver. But I wanted it to run 12.99 on fuel, and 11.99 on the bottle.
If I would have stopped there, the kids would be going to UCI.
Then I put on a BD charger, not enough.
Then I put on a HTT charger, not enough.
Now I added dual fuelers, 11.77 on fuel.
Now a GT4088, not enough.
Now a GT4202R, and bent the rods at 754HP.
Now a built engine, and 10.83 on fuel, 10.59 with a small shot.
If I stopped at this stage, they could go to Cal State Fullerton.
Now twins, 916rwhp, 197mph, etc.
Cliff notes: stock rods are usually fine if you have good sense to stop at 650HP. If you have the Speed Disease, you should REALLY put in good rods, key the cam, key the crank, headstuds, high speed springs, cut the pistons, etc.
A single "stock disp" CP3 is not normally going to generate enough torque to bend rods.
Dual CP3's or a big CP3 with a big charger usually will.
Check prices with SoCal Diesel for head gaskets and other components as well, you might save money over what GM charges.
Here's the problem you are going to run into, I'll use myself as an example, but I'm not unique:
I wanted my Duramax to tow a bit better, so I put on an exhaust and 50HP tune.
I liked it! If I would have stopped there, my kids would be going to Harvard instead of community college.
But I didn't. I ran a 100HP tune, and liked it better.
Now I needed a built trans.
Then I started stacking and tried a "small" shot of nitrous.
Then when Kat sold her minivan, we bought a second Dmax. This one we were going to use for the business and my daily driver. But I wanted it to run 12.99 on fuel, and 11.99 on the bottle.
If I would have stopped there, the kids would be going to UCI.
Then I put on a BD charger, not enough.
Then I put on a HTT charger, not enough.
Now I added dual fuelers, 11.77 on fuel.
Now a GT4088, not enough.
Now a GT4202R, and bent the rods at 754HP.
Now a built engine, and 10.83 on fuel, 10.59 with a small shot.
If I stopped at this stage, they could go to Cal State Fullerton.
Now twins, 916rwhp, 197mph, etc.
Cliff notes: stock rods are usually fine if you have good sense to stop at 650HP. If you have the Speed Disease, you should REALLY put in good rods, key the cam, key the crank, headstuds, high speed springs, cut the pistons, etc.
I don't think the speed is so much contagious as an addiction.
What does Trent day about rodding diesels and heroin?
Diesels are more addictive and more expensive?:rofl::rofl:
Oh yea I know all about the diesel bug, I had a nice 1 ton dually dodge, drove it every day, then one day I got talked into sled pulling it, now I have an 750hp p-pump 24 valve that sits outside my shop door, that only hooks to a sled about 20 times a year..............
Like I said, I want to pull it a couple of times, and drive it everyday. I like the power it has now, i dont really see me doing anymore upgrades to it. Im still on the fence if I should leave my rods alone or change em, I cant really justify spending 2800 on a set of rods, but I would upgrade to lbz. Also while I have it out should I do anything else to it????
Like I said, I want to pull it a couple of times, and drive it everyday. I like the power it has now, i dont really see me doing anymore upgrades to it. Im still on the fence if I should leave my rods alone or change em, I cant really justify spending 2800 on a set of rods, but I would upgrade to lbz. Also while I have it out should I do anything else to it????
is there a setp by step on that on here? By the way it sounds we can do it here.
UPDATE.
We have the motor on the stand and the tear down is happeing now......This motors aint nothing like the inlines im use to.......
UPDATE.
We have the motor on the stand and the tear down is happeing now......This motors aint nothing like the inlines im use to.......
LOL .... One of it's best qualities....it won't run like a cummins when you're done with it either.:rofl:
lol :rofl: trust me, my dad (diehard chevy man) has give me enough grif over the years bout my cummins"s".