Repower LB7 and Duraflite
- Thread starter S Phinney
- Start date
With the PCS its around 12,000$ IIRC without the PCS its much less... Remember that's with buying a fully built race trans from Suncoast as well.
Yeah if I where to get one I would go without the PCS. I have thought about selling my SC V and having my 2WD Allison built but maybe for a long term course I would be better with a Duraflite.
Haven't seen the truck. Is there a thread about it? I was really looking for a certain style/look to be truthful.
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The PCS is like EFI. It is a tool, if tuning is set-up properly and the tranny is built well then it works great. I have had zero issues with the PCS/Valve body that suncoast supplied many years ago.
I takes a little bit to dial in, but really not tough. Our duraflite's are working great at our HP, I pulled the one apart from Max'd Out after breaking a 5 year old intermediate shaft and the clutches/bands looked brand new. This was after basically a full race season.
That being said if running a duramax in a light weight car/truck (<4000lbs) then I really look hard a 4l80. There are a lot of high powered cars running them and no adapters needed, bolts right up.
I takes a little bit to dial in, but really not tough. Our duraflite's are working great at our HP, I pulled the one apart from Max'd Out after breaking a 5 year old intermediate shaft and the clutches/bands looked brand new. This was after basically a full race season.
That being said if running a duramax in a light weight car/truck (<4000lbs) then I really look hard a 4l80. There are a lot of high powered cars running them and no adapters needed, bolts right up.
Here's a video on how it shifts on a 9.3 pass. Had some tire spin on 1-2 shift and then again on converter lock up, but should show how a good working duraflite shifts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKWy7GAkSJ4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKWy7GAkSJ4
If it were me, I wouldn't use a modern pickup due to weight. Their frames are more substantial and all parts are heavier. If you want correct style body for a dmax truck (01+) then I'd think about a fiberglass shell and a purpose-built chassis.
Sounds like you have a pretty healthy budget if you're entertaining this at the assumed cost of $75-100k. For that kind of cash, I'd just have Russ or Jeff Dean build me something and pocket the other half of that estimate. :thumb:
Bean's truck is listed on CompD and I'm pretty sure its still on RacingJunk too. I don't see how you can get all that truck has to offer for any better a price. So unless you're hell bent on building something from scratch, I'd get that one or at least some other rolling chassis that's already built. You can get them for about 1/4-1/2 of the cost to build one from scratch. That's coming from a broke tight ass that will likely NEVER be able to entertain a $75-100k build of anything though.
On edit: I'm almost positive Bean's truck is listed for sale on here too by member ctdiesel99.
Edit 2: Nope, it's not posted here. Sorry.
Sounds like you have a pretty healthy budget if you're entertaining this at the assumed cost of $75-100k. For that kind of cash, I'd just have Russ or Jeff Dean build me something and pocket the other half of that estimate. :thumb:
Bean's truck is listed on CompD and I'm pretty sure its still on RacingJunk too. I don't see how you can get all that truck has to offer for any better a price. So unless you're hell bent on building something from scratch, I'd get that one or at least some other rolling chassis that's already built. You can get them for about 1/4-1/2 of the cost to build one from scratch. That's coming from a broke tight ass that will likely NEVER be able to entertain a $75-100k build of anything though.
On edit: I'm almost positive Bean's truck is listed for sale on here too by member ctdiesel99.
Edit 2: Nope, it's not posted here. Sorry.
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I am just tallying up what I have already in the engine and accompanying supporting items and what it might cost to get the rest right and that us were I was thinking that much money. I am sure I could do it for less but wanted to be more realistic. I do most all if the work except transmissions and the turbo piping. Rob what would it cost for you to set up the PCS since you have the bugs worked out by now? I am sure I could get it going good as well. Beans truck looks pretty killer there. I will look at it as well.
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If your goal is consistent 8's then I'd follow Mitch's opinion and purchase a proven race car/truck as a roller, maybe look at a 7.5 cert rig, as 8.5 may not be enough down the road if the stars align. To build a unit from the ground up will take a lot of money and time, it can be done though. You can save .50-.75 on a dollar purchasing a good roller. I recommend as light as possible for what ever class you want to race in. 8's will be a challenge, but with the right stuff it can be done. If you don't mind not having a door car, then a rail would be a great choice.
I'll hook you up with the programming if you go that route (duraflite)
I'll hook you up with the programming if you go that route (duraflite)
Keep in mind a 7.50 cert rig needs to be under 3200lbs or it needs to be a 25.3 7.50 cert (bunch more tube/work). And anything over 3600 can only 8.50 cert iirc. Choose a platform you know you will never grow out of the first time around..
http://www.racingjunk.com/Race-Trucks/182107565/25.1-6.o-cert-roller.html
Steal at 25k.
There are a bunch of great deals on here.
My Camino had to have things changed around now carries a 25.3 cert, would go 6.0 cert if CM but it's not. If looking at to purchase a roller, I'd look at a current cert. truck as the rules have changed in the last few years.
Steal at 25k.
There are a bunch of great deals on here.
My Camino had to have things changed around now carries a 25.3 cert, would go 6.0 cert if CM but it's not. If looking at to purchase a roller, I'd look at a current cert. truck as the rules have changed in the last few years.
http://www.racingjunk.com/Top-Sportsman/182080979/99-Jerry-Bickel-Pro-Stock-Truck.html
Here's another one, not sure if this is what type you are looking for. Pennies on the dollar and should run in the 8's without a huge amount of power.
Here's another one, not sure if this is what type you are looking for. Pennies on the dollar and should run in the 8's without a huge amount of power.
The NXEXPRESS DMAX MUSTANG I know runs the 4L80E, so if you get teh weight down it is definately an option for ALOT less coin. If you swapped over to LBZ electronics, you could even factory integrate the LBZ T42 TCM combo together uisng van wiring pinouts and operating systems.
Yup. Firewall would have to be modified to raise and move back engine to clear the rack. Not sure how far you want to go, but its a PITA to me.
Look at Thunder550's build thread on why the 4wd frame would be smarter choice.
Box/linkage steering, torsion bar suspension (easier to swap to coilovers
), engine can sit in normal spot.You can also retrofit larger police/tahoe OEM brakes to the 1/2 ton front spindles, but you need to run min 17" wheels.